Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
hcraig244
BRONZE MemberNo worries Jouni
Not the best images but take a look….
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberAhh…..nothing so adventurous Glitch, tried and tested hair dryer technique. So here is the finished article still giving 3.8 ohms and now moving freely….wont commit this to the postal service todayย as it will languish in the system all weekend, not good….will send it back Monday morning.
Craig
hcraig244
BRONZE MemberJust needs to be left as the epoxy hardens, the dust cap glued back in place and posting back home…..I don’t know if there is a better way to do this……
hcraig244
BRONZE MemberThe epoxy holding the magnet to the frame now hardened, more epoxy can be applied to the magnet face. The whole assembly is then, with a firm and steady grip….the magnet wants to pull down and sidewards, lowered onto the core held in the vice jaws carefully…..the coil is exposed to damage at this point as the core is guided inside it. With a clunk the magnet will grab the vice jaws which can then be released to allow the backplate to snap into place. The coil now gripped by the off centre core can be viewed through the dust cap apperture as the alignment jig is fitted tightly to the magnet by the bottom row of screws and the top row of screws adjusted up against the backplate and used to centre the backplate and core using the dust cap apperture as a guide until the it looks central and the cone and coil move freely within the magnetic field……
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberThe epoxy now dry on the backplate and core it goes back into the vice,ย 2 or 3mm below the vice jaws
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberGlitch…
Yes the saucepan is simply a convenient diameter to rest the speaker on during removal of the dust cap and drying time of the epoxy, keeps any pressure off the cone and coil. The process of softening the dust cap
comprises the use of my partners hair dryer providing hot air, this quickly softens the old adhesive which can then be very carefully lifted with a jewellers screwdriver….and in my case the use of a magnifying glass ;ยฌ) takes a bit of patience but is quite straight forward.
hcraig244
BRONZE MemberThese don’t need to be dead centre but just thereabouts, the accurate alignment will follow when the backplate and core are offered up to the magnet once everything has hardened off…….and in case anyone was wondering about the last pic it was taken through this magnifying glass, my eyes are not what they once where ;ยฌ)
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberRemove the old adhesive from magnet and backplate, not a lot there so easy task, and having applied some epoxy join them together….
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberNext task is to soften the glue holding the dust cap in place, this needs to come off so I can see what im doing when putting everything back in place and to give me a clue when centering the core inside the coil.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberMichael….thank you for those kind words ;ยฌ)
Cleaned up the core and backplate and applied apoxy last night….dried out nicely.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberAll apart and ready for cleaning up prior to fresh epoxy, the coil still reading an encouraging 3.7 ohms….
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberThis is odd however……not seen this in the several I have taken apart, some sort of alluminium ring. Anyone got an explanation ? As can be seen the core has also dethatched itself from the backplate, the backplate and ferrite magnet will also need to be seperated.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberCame apart cleanly leaving the coil behind and, apart from a very slight inward burr, looking in good shape. The coil moves freely in the frame with no scratching on the sides and overall should be fine. You can see from the traces of adhesive on the frame that not a lot was applied during manufacturing
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberEngineers vice once again, always a scary exercise as pulling things apart can cause more damage, firm upward pull keeping everything level..
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberHowever I have to say I’ve not seen one looking quite so battered, everything looking askew….must have taken quite a knock.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberWell packaged up and looking like its survived the postal system…
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberOk
This arrived in the post today…….been expecting it.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.hcraig244
BRONZE MemberHi
I have a couple of these wonderfully over engineered amplifiers…..just love them. I only have one commander however that was gifted to me by the good doctor, I’m taking the view you have neither commander or receiver board in you 6000?…..I could look inside mine and see if the microphone has any markings if you wish….
Craig
hcraig244
BRONZE MemberAs I recall the solenoid de-energises to lift the tone arm same as the BG4000, my guess would be the return spring is sticking due to old grease/lubricant……give it a clean and if nothing else it will remove the spring from the investigation, check the Beolovers you tube blog below for a detailed account.
Regards Craig
hcraig244
BRONZE MemberHi
Can you check that the speaker coil still measures around 4ohms first, if the coil is broken its probably terminal…i will send you a pvt message with my details in the meantime. Check the post in here S45- Repair for pics of the procedure i carry out
Craig
-
AuthorPosts