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I have always used 240v selection without any problems.
Rgds – Gravity G.Hi Glitch – The main board is not easily removeable – however, I was planning on trying to take a photo and see if I can manipulate it enough to make readable, so unless someone else comes up with one they’ve already done !! So great minds think alike – I’ll use my digital camera to produce a good picture, and go from there…
GrahamThanks Craig – actually got the lamps from BeoParts (Denmark).
However, After changing out the transisistors – it all worked (At last !!) – THEN..
I reassembled the deck and nothing worked !!
Not sure how – but TR29 & TR30 have packed in…
So – before I replace them again – I’ll check all the diodes.
Graham H.Think I have it sorted now..
Changed out TR28 and TR31 – nothing changed. Took out TR29 and TR30, and tested them with my new Atlas DCA semiconductor tester – to find that TR29 has a short. !!
Followed up by switching them, and lo-and-behold, the deck will return and switch off (after winding the slider towards the middle !) – and as expected, the tone-arm will not travel inwards..
Replacement transistors will hopefully arrive today, and I’ll replace all 4 as a matter of course..
I don’t suppose you know where I can get replacement 6v 30mA lamps for the 33/45 indicators ? I also need 2 replacement 12v 30mA lamps for the position indicator ?
Regards
Graham H.OK Craig – I thought I’d responded 2 days ago… Gone missing…
(Edit – didn’t realise it had moved onto another page..)
Update:
I have ordered an Atlas DCA Pro as advised (early Xmas pressie from Missus) <3
I’ve got a few other bits to sort out while I wait for new transistors to arrive.
Now I’ve had a couple of lamps blow… probably from the switching on and off…!!
(So not switching transistors until they are replaced..)
While I’m at it I’m cleaning all the contacts with cleaner and a glass-fibre brush/burnisher.
Just wishing I had more workspace, so I could do some fault-finding on my Beomaster 1900…..!!
Regards
Graham H.Thanks Craig – I’ll check out the diodes.
I’ve already ordered a batch of new transistors, but I like your thinking about switching the inboard and outboard transistors..!
Also, after your recommendation, I have just ordered an Atlas DCA pro – as an early Christmas present from my wife (she’s the one who wanted it made operational again!)
I’ll update this post as I progress…Best Regards – Graham H.
Thanks Christian,
Tracking function does not work in reverse in ‘Play’ mode – when I push the tone arm, nothing happens..
For simplicity I have just ordered TR30, 31, 32, 33, 34, and TR25… as they seem the likely suspects..
I just need to mark the wiring when I remove the board, prior to replacing the transistors.BestRegards
Graham H.
Just gone over the main PCB with a soldering iron, to eliminate any possible dry joints..
Going to put the board back in, and re-check voltages..Ok…..check this set of switch contacts also…I know i keep banging on about switches but if nothing else you will eliminate them from the search. If these contacts dont operate your motor wont operate as a servo, the contacts should open when the solenoid energises
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Already checked those switches… Thought they would be OK as it all works when playing a record… Just that it will not work in either Reverse (RE) or Fast Reverse(FR), which makes me suspect the logic inputs to 1TR34… I’ll be checking those first.
OR – If they are OK then the circuitry around 1TR34 could be faulty.OK Craig – I checked the slider switches, and cleaned them with Isopropanol.
Then I decided to remove the PCB, and de-soldered all the wiring.
After proving that all was good, I replaced the PCB and soldered the wiring back on to it.
I’m beginning to think the problem might be Board number 1 (8009012) as this is where (according to the Service Manual), the motor supply is switched between forward/reverse.
I am using Diagram 2, on page 3-2.Graham
OK – Thanks Craig. I’ll have a closer look at the slider switches, as the ones on the control panel seem fine. (fingers crossed)..
Graham
The switches are fine..
It’s just that no matter whether I press the stop, or the across button (return) – apart from the arm lifting – nothing happens, and no reversed supply to the motor.
Maybe I’ll have to look at the motor supply circuits…
Then my other challenge is to find out why my BeoMaster 1900 wont work…..Thanks for the help guys, but I decided to ‘steal’ the damper from a ‘dead’ 6000.. Works perfectly.. BUT…
Now the tone arm moves OK on starting – It will not do anything to return the tone arm to the rest position – OR switch off !!!
Must be time for me to check the manual again…..Bummer.. Anyone know how to ‘free’ a stuck damper ??
I’ve got it out, and the plunger seems to be stuck solid…
Is there any way of actually taking the damper apart ??That’s really helpful – Thank you very much..
I’ll hopefully get it sorted later today (Seems that the damper is stuck..)
Rgds – Gravity G.I’m working on a BeoMaster 1900-2. After changing electrolytics, I am still having problems powering it up…
On investigation the ON/OFF switch has a high resistance on one side !!
Now dismantling to try and fix/replace the faulty switch before proceeding further…
Photos to follow..
Graham -
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