[filip_kbh]

D10 was indeed not working. Also R18 was defective. After replacing these two, I now have +40V back on p14-6. Yay. A small victory.

There are still some problems though. On P18-5 I now don’t have -40V – I have no idea why as it worked before. And none of the voltages on P15 are correct, so I don’t have 28V on p15-6, I don’t have 12V on P15-3, and I don’t have -12V on P15-2. Sigh. P24 also still gives around 5V instead of the specified 11V.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Die Bogener – I love your pictures – but when I press them, they never zoom in; they always take me to pic-upload.de 🙁

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

When in Auto mode, it will only move the upper panel down when you lift it up from the table. If you want it to lie straight on the table you must do it manually.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Can you run the VTR without a cassette? See section 7-1 in the service manual.

Also, if the fan motor is blocked, the VTR goes into standby within 1-2 seconds according to the service manual.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Did you clean the black part with the white pin with an arrow in the middle – not sure what it is called – to the left of the drawer motor. It will corrode and could cause all sorts of problems.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

This thread by Die Bogener is also worth a read.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Looks  like D10 is shorted. Will change it.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Finally had some time to look again, and also I understand the schematics a bit better now.

Checking the voltages on board P9. On pin 3 there should be 40V but I measure around 26V – it drops ever so slightly and keeps dropping until 25.87V when I measure with the multimeter. 40V is supposed to come from 2P14-6.

On board 2 P14, pin 6 gives me also around 26V – logically. Seems like it passes through C10 which I did not change – it measures 57uf capacitance and should be 47 – so I guess it is slightly out of spec – could that be the issue?. P18 measures the specified -40V.

On board 2 P24 should give me 11V but it gives around 5V.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Keine Ursache. Du brauchst 2 Powerlinkkabel (die hast du schon), und 2 Stromkabel (davon hast du schon einen). Also brauchst du eigentlich nur einen Stromkabel (Euro 8-Form) zu kaufen, oder du hast einen übrig von einem anderen Produkt, den du verwendet kannst.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Falsch! Die beiden Lautsprecher benötigen Stromversorgung.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Look at the muting relay. It may have corroded.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

yes. I have an RDS BL7000. Worked before the recap of the BM.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Also no readout of RDS. Guess I will have to seek professional help.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Well, that was an easy fix. A wire had broken off. After soldering it on, I also soldered one pin on the big chip on the panel as it looked slightly suspicious, and now 2-way IR is back. It now reports the radio channel. Yay! Still no read out of Volume, and it seems like the range is limited.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

I’m getting a little bit frustrated. 1-way function was working. I decided I wanted to play a new record that I bought today, so I assembled the Beomaster. Now, IR does not work at all. And I didn’t touch anything. Must be a connection, I guess.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Regarding TR10:

Base to Collector: 0.570 V 3.3 M Ohm

Base to Emitter: 0.273 V 333 Ohm

The diodes have been tested and they check out fine. I have inspected the board and there are no cracks as far as I can see.

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Hm. I have about 28V on the diodes

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Hmm – I have a hard time trusting my ESR metre. On the front panel board, I get open line readings on these:

C3, C5, C7, C8, C9, C11, C12, C16, C18, C23, C24

However, testing with the multimeter, only these ceramics give me no reading/reaction:

C5, C11, C23, C24. Still it’s a lot of ceramics …

Putting power on the board, only C5 is suspicious with a voltage across it of 0.142 V DC

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

Thanks 🙂

Location: Copenhagen

[filip_kbh]

I have a Beolink 7000 and Beolink 5000. Both of them worked before I recapped the Beomaster. Highly unlikely that both of them would fail at the same time – especially since I repaired their 2-way communication module 1-2  years ago.

Location: Copenhagen

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