[Elephantsintheclouds]

Schematics would be awesome.

 

also note im a novice and my suggestion regarding replacing or checking the health of yoir capacitors and board with a Multimeter is simply that: a suggestion 🙂

Keep at it, things will turn in your favor for you and the BL1s!

[Elephantsintheclouds]

Two things:

 

1. Copper ink pens for drawing up and closing connections on pcbs are on amazon

2. “kose trading” located in Kobenhaben / copenhagen may have the parts and board you need if you prefer to consult with a guy who knows many of these products inside and out. It is a pleasure to work with the guy there. Highly recommend!

let us know how you fair. Also ive heard that capacitors on pcbs are sometimes an issue and can be replaced over time with some skill, time and at minimum cost.

Links on forum regarding replacing and ordering capacitors:

1. https://uk.farnell.com/

 

2. https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-9000-ir-repair-pcb-14/#post-55674

 

3. https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-ouverture-cd-not-working/

[Elephantsintheclouds]

Gents! Hot update! Kose sent me a cd laser part that was the entire servo board motor, optical reader housed together and after replacing that …..eureka! The cd player function is back on and im happy seeing the discs spin and audio waft through the air !
its been decommissioned for quite some time and a lot of troubleshooting. I never got around to changing the capacitors myself, though rest assured I look forward to when it may konk out and now am well equipped to change those parts out given your Guy and Madskp insights.

 

hope this may benefit others. If you are looking into spare parts I can highly recommend “kose trading”.  the manager / proprietor and stands behind his products and services in a delightful and time efficient way. The inventory and supply is vast.

once again thanks for the members of this forum for solving the whole CD debacle with me and for sharing your collective wisdom along the way 🙂

[Elephantsintheclouds]

Johan thanks for the resource in narrowing down the mark type! Awesome sleuthing. So interestingly, the 7.4 are now channeling audio and sound crystal clear. It was something to do with the voltage setting on my transformer given the 7.4 center speaker is 230V rated I did not have enough  voltage going to the speakers given Im in the Us on a 110 voltage household circuit — though the green light was on. Anyway a simple adjustment on the plug-in-the-wall transformer from 110V output to 220V output did the trick. A few people who I met on a trip to the local bang and olufsen store encouraged me to keep tinkering and ….voila!

 

anyway just a positive update for those who may run into similar issues now or in the future 🙂

[Elephantsintheclouds]

Total novice here, and read through your resourceful link!

SMD caps:

I’m eager to order the relevant capacitors SMD and try my take at soldering/desoldering the servo pcb. Any tips you have regarding the twisting technique or otherwise? Also, in order to get those, what sites do you typically quote/order from that proved successful in repairing the thing? I saw a post on the thread you sent where someone referred to ordering standard smb’s as preferable.

Cable:

I also think it may be a subtle and minor ribbon cable tear that doesn’t transmit the signal that the disc is loaded to start the spin/play. You’ll see in the the images I’m attaching. Any advise on sourcing that type of thin film cable and common recommendation/youtube of the process/skill required to solder for beginners given your expertise.   🙂

Image note:

You will see the center of the small blue circle in the first image is where the tear is located, on the back of the unit running to the disc spindle – a part manufactured by Machubi – that holds the CD in place.

 

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