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DillenModeratorA transformer will always hum a bit. It’s in their nature.
New correct rubber feet are available – visit our sponsor Danish Sound Parts.Martin
DillenModeratorThe transformer is at the back left.
But it is most likely what you hear.
Does the hum go away when you lift the Beogram?
Has the deck lost its rubber feet?Martin
DillenModeratorWhat are the symptoms?
Martin
DillenModeratorThe one with the lifted pin in the last photo is a 47uF 25V.
How do you test them, and with what?Martin
DillenModeratorI wouldn’t worry as long as we are within +/-10%.
I don’t think the power plants can guarantee a tighter tolerance anyways.Martin
DillenModerator1,
The kit description does not mentioned thermal paste, so it is not included.
The thermal paste rarely needs attention in these models, but if you must replace it I suggest you
get some of the good old white stuff. The newer grey stuff dries out very fast and is useless.
This guy made a great video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psY_RV1NjHM2,
A bulge points to internal overpressure. Replace them!3,
Electrolytic capacitors from 1987 are no longer up to spec. That’s fairly safe to assume.
The boards can bind immensely. Pull and wiggle and it will come out.
Look at the back of the boards and compare the numbers there to those mentioned in the kits descriptions at Danish Sound Parts.
https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/crossover-capacitor-kit-beovox-beolab-penta-early-version/
https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/crossover-capacitor-kit-beovox-beolab-penta/5,
A rubbing woofer must be replaced. Look at f.e. Ebay for a good original one.6,
It’s glue. It holds the thin wires running from the flex wires to the voice coil.Don’t get me wrong, but are you sure you have enough experience to do this?
Martin
DillenModeratorR40 is the NTC resistor for the over-temp protection circuit in the amplifier section.
It has nothing to do with the wiring of the mains transformer.The mains transformers shown on page 8-4 for 100V and 120V are different from the one used for 110/130/220/240V.
Seeing as you have a Beomaster currently set for 220V:
If you have 110V in your mains, I would convert to that.
If you have 120V mains I would convert to 130V.
If you absolutely must convert to 120V you must replace the transformer with a correct one (8013299, that has a thermal fuse built-in).You must also replace the mains fuse with one of twice the amp rating. (Half voltage – twice current – same power, also known as Ohms law).
Martin
DillenModeratorIf you order bearings from Danish Sound Parts, you will not need to add any oil.
They come pre-oiled, ready to mount. That also goes for the reservoir felts.
Just clean the motor spindle thoroughly, as any remains of old lubricants will be in the way,
and make sure the spindle is centered in the motor so it runs freely without rubbing on anything.You can read more here:
https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/motor-bearings-set-for-beogram-motor-with-3mm-spindle/Martin
DillenModerator69er, can you show us a photo of the board (front and backside)?
Martin
DillenModeratorI have never seen a tray belt cause a read failure.
If the belt fails, the tray will usually not open fully – or not open/close at all.
If the tray doesn’t close fully, the disc will not start to spin.The symptoms of the disc spinning for a few seconds, not reading and then stopping is a sign of a laser starved of power.
Replacing the capacitors on the servo board will alone fix this in 95% of cases.
The last 5% is usually dirt on the laser lens or a combination of the two.If the disc doesn’t start spinning at all, there could be a problem with cracked solder joints (as shown above) or
a badly seated ribbon cable for the disc drive.
The laser itself rarely dies. I don’t recall ever replacing a laser in one of these decks, and I’ve done many.Martin
DillenModeratorMost likely not the set with the collared bearing.
As mentioned in the bearings sets descriptions, you will have to look at the motor to see
which set is needed.Martin
DillenModeratorSure you have the tapes playing side against the tapeheads?
The tape could be twisted so it has the backside against the heads.Martin
DillenModeratorRemember lubricating should be with an oil suitable for use with sinter-bronze. It needs to have the
right additives. Lubrication is done with the bearings submersed in the oil, while vacuum is pulled to get
the air out of the pores in the bearing metal. Then leave them submersed without vacuum for 24 hours to allow
oil to suck in.
If not oiled correctly the bearings will only run fine for a short time (hours or days).
Factory new bearings, pre-oiled and ready to fit is available from Danish Sound Parts.
I would recommend that as it also includes new reservoir felts and takes wear to the old bearings out of the equation.Martin
DillenModeratorA photo or two showing how far you’ve come would help us suggest the next step.
Martin
DillenModeratorDismounting the servo circuit board from the bottom of the disc drive you must work carefully.
You will have to release the ribbon cable running to the laser block from its socket on the pcb.
This can be tricky – particularly because the cable will almost certainly break at the sharp corner where it’s secured, if pulled.Martin
DillenModeratorCorrection: It cannot be from a 606 due to the different pivot system.
Martin
DillenModeratorIt could be from a GR 605 (1959) or 606 (1960).
Martin
DillenModeratorPut a scope on an output.
Check for oscillation.Martin
DillenModerator
Martin
DillenModeratorThe modern grey stuff often sold for use with computer CPUs is useless. Some of it dries hard over a week or two.
Silicone pads – some are fairly good, others are junk. I don’t like them, and I throw them away on sight.
The original white heatsink compound, that was also used originally, works best. It will last for decades.Martin
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