Generic selectors
Exact matches only
Search in title
Search in content
Post Type Selectors

Dillen

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 20 posts - 121 through 140 (of 726 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • in reply to: Beocenter 9000ย  CD decoder #57210
    Dillen
    Moderator

    What are the symptoms?

    Martin

    in reply to: Beocenter 9000ย  CD decoder #57199
    Dillen
    Moderator

    The one with the lifted pin in the last photo is a 47uF 25V.
    How do you test them, and with what?

    Martin

    in reply to: BeoMaster 5000 voltage conversion to 120v #57169
    Dillen
    Moderator

    I wouldn’t worry as long as we are within +/-10%.
    I don’t think the power plants can guarantee a tighter tolerance anyways.

    Martin

    in reply to: Beolab Penta restoration help #57166
    Dillen
    Moderator

    1,
    The kit description does not mentioned thermal paste, so it is not included.
    The thermal paste rarely needs attention in these models, but if you must replace it I suggest you
    get some of the good old white stuff. The newer grey stuff dries out very fast and is useless.
    This guy made a great video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psY_RV1NjHM

    2,
    A bulge points to internal overpressure. Replace them!

    3,
    Electrolytic capacitors from 1987 are no longer up to spec. That’s fairly safe to assume.
    The boards can bind immensely. Pull and wiggle and it will come out.
    Look at the back of the boards and compare the numbers there to those mentioned in the kits descriptions at Danish Sound Parts.
    https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/crossover-capacitor-kit-beovox-beolab-penta-early-version/
    https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/crossover-capacitor-kit-beovox-beolab-penta/

    5,
    A rubbing woofer must be replaced. Look at f.e. Ebay for a good original one.

    6,
    It’s glue. It holds the thin wires running from the flex wires to the voice coil.

    Don’t get me wrong, but are you sure you have enough experience to do this?

    Martin

    in reply to: BeoMaster 5000 voltage conversion to 120v #57165
    Dillen
    Moderator

    R40 is the NTC resistor for the over-temp protection circuit in the amplifier section.
    It has nothing to do with the wiring of the mains transformer.

    The mains transformers shown on page 8-4 for 100V and 120V are different from the one used for 110/130/220/240V.

    Seeing as you have a Beomaster currently set for 220V:
    If you have 110V in your mains, I would convert to that.
    If you have 120V mains I would convert to 130V.
    If you absolutely must convert to 120V you must replace the transformer with a correct one (8013299, that has a thermal fuse built-in).

    You must also replace the mains fuse with one of twice the amp rating. (Half voltage – twice current – same power, also known as Ohms law).

    Martin

    in reply to: Beogram motor bearings issue #56960
    Dillen
    Moderator

    If you order bearings from Danish Sound Parts, you will not need to add any oil.
    They come pre-oiled, ready to mount. That also goes for the reservoir felts.
    Just clean the motor spindle thoroughly, as any remains of old lubricants will be in the way,
    and make sure the spindle is centered in the motor so it runs freely without rubbing on anything.

    You can read more here:
    https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/motor-bearings-set-for-beogram-motor-with-3mm-spindle/

    Martin

    in reply to: Beogram CD7000 wonโ€™t play #56649
    Dillen
    Moderator

    69er, can you show us a photo of the board (front and backside)?

    Martin

    in reply to: Beogram CD7000 wonโ€™t play #56647
    Dillen
    Moderator

    I have never seen a tray belt cause a read failure.
    If the belt fails, the tray will usually not open fully – or not open/close at all.
    If the tray doesn’t close fully, the disc will not start to spin.

    The symptoms of the disc spinning for a few seconds, not reading and then stopping is a sign of a laser starved of power.
    Replacing the capacitors on the servo board will alone fix this in 95% of cases.
    The last 5% is usually dirt on the laser lens or a combination of the two.

    If the disc doesn’t start spinning at all, there could be a problem with cracked solder joints (as shown above) or
    a badly seated ribbon cable for the disc drive.
    The laser itself rarely dies. I don’t recall ever replacing a laser in one of these decks, and I’ve done many.

    Martin

    in reply to: Beogram motor bearings issue #56641
    Dillen
    Moderator

    Most likely not the set with the collared bearing.
    As mentioned in the bearings sets descriptions, you will have to look at the motor to see
    which set is needed.

    Martin

    in reply to: Beocord 1200, no recording or playback #56640
    Dillen
    Moderator

    Sure you have the tapes playing side against the tapeheads?
    The tape could be twisted so it has the backside against the heads.

    Martin

    in reply to: Beogram motor bearings issue #56630
    Dillen
    Moderator

    Remember lubricating should be with an oil suitable for use with sinter-bronze. It needs to have the
    right additives. Lubrication is done with the bearings submersed in the oil, while vacuum is pulled to get
    the air out of the pores in the bearing metal. Then leave them submersed without vacuum for 24 hours to allow
    oil to suck in.
    If not oiled correctly the bearings will only run fine for a short time (hours or days).
    Factory new bearings, pre-oiled and ready to fit is available from Danish Sound Parts.
    I would recommend that as it also includes new reservoir felts and takes wear to the old bearings out of the equation.

    Martin

    in reply to: Beogram motor bearings issue #56627
    Dillen
    Moderator

    A photo or two showing how far you’ve come would help us suggest the next step.

    Martin

    in reply to: CD3300 removing boards #56598
    Dillen
    Moderator

    Dismounting the servo circuit board from the bottom of the disc drive you must work carefully.
    You will have to release the ribbon cable running to the laser block from its socket on the pcb.
    This can be tricky – particularly because the cable will almost certainly break at the sharp corner where it’s secured, if pulled.

    Martin

    in reply to: Help Identify Tonearm #56530
    Dillen
    Moderator

    Correction: It cannot be from a 606 due to the different pivot system.

    Martin

    in reply to: Help Identify Tonearm #56524
    Dillen
    Moderator

    It could be from a GR 605 (1959) or 606 (1960).

    605_1

    IMG_9921

    Martin

    in reply to: BM 4400 Mexico #56467
    Dillen
    Moderator

    Put a scope on an output.
    Check for oscillation.

    Martin

    in reply to: What are you working on now? #56370
    Dillen
    Moderator

    Work1

    Martin

    in reply to: BM 4400 Mexico #56367
    Dillen
    Moderator

    The modern grey stuff often sold for use with computer CPUs is useless. Some of it dries hard over a week or two.
    Silicone pads – some are fairly good, others are junk. I don’t like them, and I throw them away on sight.
    The original white heatsink compound, that was also used originally, works best. It will last for decades.

    Martin

    in reply to: BM 4400 Mexico #56358
    Dillen
    Moderator

    A drifting idle can be caused by bad thermal contact to the heatsink.
    Did you use the proper white heatsink paste?

    Martin

    in reply to: Beogram 1700 – starts at wrong speed – 66 RPM #55970
    Dillen
    Moderator

    A worn and slipping belt can allow the motor to accellerate to easily.
    The motor pulley simply slips on the belt at startup.

    This, coupled with electronics that will accept to lock in at twice the correct speed, causes this.
    The cure is to replace the belt.

    Correct belt here.

    Martin

Viewing 20 posts - 121 through 140 (of 726 total)