[CharlieWednesday]

Ah yes sorry, just tried again, it was indeed Link>Shift>Radio!

[CharlieWednesday]

Update – my BL35000 does work with A.Aux. I also have a Beolink 1000 and I was able to switch my BL3500 to A.Aux using Link>Shift>Phono.

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks everyone; a lot to think about.  I had no idea you could put a Beo4 in permanent link mode, but I tried (list, config, 2002), but the display did not say ‘Link On’, and it made no difference to the function.  I found something in the old forum that say the Beo4 needs to be at software version 5 or later for link mode.  Mine is 4.4, and is the older model with V.Tape and A.Tape rather than V.Mem and A.Mem buttons.  I have another Beo4 on it’s way to me that comes with the BS4 – hopefully that will be a later one.  The seller confirmed the Bs4 came with a ‘remote’ but didn’t provide a photo, but the price of the BS4 was so good, I didn’t really care.

I’ve not ruled out getting a BS5 yet.  I’ve looked at the BS Moment but it’s more expensive, and would mean I would also need a NL/ML converter to connect it to the BS4, which puts the price up even further.

I’ve just ordered an ML Gateway because it was going very cheap on eBay and included an ML cable – really I just bought it for the cable.  Haven’t a clue what an ML Gateway does though!  Will probably just sell it (without the ML cable) on eBay.

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks, that’s very useful.  The BS5 is a lovely looking thing but it sounds like it would not be very integrated with my BS4.  It depends how cheap I can get one, I suppose!  I’ll give it some thought.

If I used WIIM Pro instead I would have to connect that into Aux In, then connect my phono stage into the Aux In on the WIIM Pro, then connect my Beogram to that.  That could work though, as the WIIM Pro switches to Aux Input automatically if it detects a signal.

What I’d miss there is having a dedicated screen for digital music, which the BS5 would provide.

One annoying thing though – the Beo4 does not seem to have ‘L-A.Aux’ available as an extra button, so I would not be able to select that source using my Beo4 on my Beolab 3500.  It has L-V.Aux but not L-A.Aux.  What a strange omission!

[CharlieWednesday]

Yes, I have a Beocom 6000 but I’ve put that on eBay now as I have no use for it – I much prefer this 1500, and I didn’t need a cordless phone for my desk anyway.  The 1500 also better matches the aesthetic of my mostly 80s/90s B&O kit (although I admit, the 6000 is nice to look at).

[CharlieWednesday]

Yes, I’ve seen that before, cool idea!  I had actually looked for one of those before but they don’t come up for same very often, and they often list them on eBay at quite a high price due to rarity, I suppose.

I think mine is actually a 1500 not a 1401; I just assumed it was a 1401 but the eBay seller didn’t specify the model and it doesn’t have the model number on it.  The buttons are a bit different that a 1401.  This may explain why I was unable to find the location of the batteries in the 1401 user manual.  That’s my excuse anyway.

I love having volume controls to hand, right there on my desk.  Using them every day – so useful.

[CharlieWednesday]

My search for an MCL2P is over now anyway – no point, as the MCL2AV that I bought has stopped working.  I’d not had it long so the eBay seller has agreed to take it back and refund it.  I’ll wire my old MCL2A back up for now.

Given that the MCL2AV has gone, and given that I have an ML distributor box with sockets going spare, I think I’ll give up on the MCL plan and go for a Beolink Passive 1657 with an IR Eye.  If my BC8500 ever goes the same way as the MCL2AV I’d likely replace it with something later such as a BS3000 or BS4, so having the Beolink Passive to drive my lovely little Boevox CX50s at the back of the room would be an advantage.

[CharlieWednesday]

Ah that is interesting.  I already have 2 of those older rectangular IR receivers which came with MCL2A and MCL2AV.  Of course they have bare wires rather than a DIN connection that the 1657 requires, but it’d be easy enough to fit one and I think I can see how I would wire it up on other thread you posted a link to!

I wouldn’t mind a round IR eye with eh volume control, but the eBay sellers are asking a lot for them.  I could use one of my old ones and live without the volume controls for now, until a round IR eye came up at a good price.

Mind you, if I do this properly I won’t need the MCL2A or 2AV, and could sell both on eBay, which will go some way to paying for the new IR eye!  I’m not too short of funds but I do like a bargain.

[CharlieWednesday]

Ag good – at least I have an alternative then.  If I can’t get an MCL2P I’ll get a Beolink Passive and an IR Eye, and connect it to my ML Distributor.  The Beolink Passive amps come up cheap on eBay sometimes, but the IR Eye demands a much higher price.  I have occasionally seen them sold as a package through (a 1657 with an IR Eye) so I might look out for that.

[CharlieWednesday]

I have not yet been able to find an MCL2P for sale, so I was thinking of buying a Beolink Passive such as the 1657, as per your earlier suggestion in this thread @Madskp.  I know that would not supply power to the MCL2AV but it would at least still work.

I think I do have an alternative though – note that I have my Beocenter 8500 connected to a 1611 converter via Audio Aux Link, then that is connected to an ML distributor box which has 3 unused sockets at present.

Could I connect a Beolink Passive such as the 1657 to that via Masterlink, or could I connect the 1657 directly to my Beocenter vas Powerlink?  I know this would mean I would also need the newer IR Eye as the older rectangular type that I already have would not work, but would this alternative (made up of newer components) work?

 

 

[CharlieWednesday]

Ah yes, there they are.  Three AAAs now replaced, and it’s working!  It’s not obvious; you have to jimmy open the flap with a little screwdriver, but at least I know where it is now!

I don’t much need a landline (we still have one in our house but it rarely rings). I was more interested because it looks good, and now I have volume controls for both my Beocenter and Beovision right there on my desk – brilliant!  I also have a Beotalk 1200 which I don’t use as an answerphone, but just for the useful caller display.  It’s shouts “MUM!” in my voice when my mum rings.  Who wouldn’t want that!?

Thanks for your help (again) Guy.

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks – I’ve downloaded it ready for when it arrives.  I’m using a Windows 10 PC (I’m a keen PC gamer, so Mac is no good for me!).  I’ve held off on installing Windows 11 for now as it needs me to change some BIOS settings and then reinstall, and I simply can’t be bothered with all that just yet!

[CharlieWednesday]

I managed to find another Beolink PC2 going cheap on eBay (some sellers were asking a lot for it though!).  I was too curious not to buy it in the end, so I bought it and it’s on its way.  I’d be grateful for that software then, if you have it.

[CharlieWednesday]

Update – the new cable arrived, and there is no longer a hum when it is connected and switched on (but not playing), so the cable was part of the problem, but only part.

There is still a hum, not as loud as before but still very audible, whenever it is playing.

There is od music on the tape that came with it and it plays in okay-ish quality.  If I record new music however it’s poor quality when played back, particularly on the right channel.  Very variable and scratchy, and lower in level than the left.

It seems the right place to start is the capacitors on the power supply board.  I have the service manual and it’s quite easy to identify them, so while I’m no electronics expert, I should be able to get the multimeter and soldering iron out, get hold of the capacitors!  Wish me luck.

[CharlieWednesday]

Just coming back to this, I managed to get a Masterlink Distribution Box, one came up cheap on eBay.  It’ll come in useful because I have decided to keep one of the Beolab 2000s I bought as a package with my Beolab 3500.

As for the Beolink PC2, I missed out on the one that was on eBay but another will come up, and I am just too curious not to buy one now!  One thing I didn’t think of though – will I be able to get the software for it?

[CharlieWednesday]

My understanding is that the BL6002 (unlike the Beolab 6000, which I have) lack the RCA input, and only have Powerlink inputs?

While I don’t have the same speakers I do have the 6000s, and I have a Beocenter 9000, and I have connected then successfully in the past.  I was able to connect them with RCA-to-RCA cables because my BL6000s have an RCA ‘line’ input as well as Powerlink.

I’d ask Steve at Sounds Heavenly if he has the cables for that, if I were you!

[CharlieWednesday]

I lost out on the Beolink PC2, I forgot when the auction was up and the time passed without me bidding.  It hasn’t been relisted so someone else must have bid for it.  A shame, because it came with all the cables, even a double masterlink cable.  Never mind, I wait for another one to come up.

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks _ I forget to look at the old forums but I’ll have a look.  I’ve not opened it up yet but I’ve been playing around with it- it does at least play, and record, and it appears to play at the right speed.  If I plug headphone into it the sound quality is still pretty muffled, but the loud hum that i get if I connect it to my Beocenter is not there when I listen via headphones.

The DIN cable is really old and worn (it may be original!) so I will replace that first, then give the heads a proper clean, then it’s trial and error from there.  I don’t have a demagnetiser for the heads but I may buy one.

I have no practical use for a reel-to-reel tape recorder of course, but it does look very cool!  I’ve stood it up next to my other equipment (it has clever swivelling legs on the back that help it stand up).  It would be nice to get it working better but it’s not the end of the world if I can’t.

[CharlieWednesday]

You were right – thanks!  The tape was already loaded when I bought it, it was obviously loaded incorrectly – when I checked there are printed arrows on the ends that show which side should be facing out, and when I took a closer look it became more obvious anyway – the ‘correct’ side that hits the heads is the familiar red-brown colour of tape, the other side is black.

There’s a lot of hum when I connect it to my Beocenter (even when not playing), and the sound quality is poor, but I’ll give it a bit of once over, clean and demagnetise the heads, and so on.  I’ve found a service manual for it online.  This is my new project then!

[CharlieWednesday]

I’m such an amateur with reel-to-reel – I didn’t even know there was a correct side!  I’ll try and reverse it and see what happens – thanks.

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