[CharlieWednesday]

I’ve had a look at the wiring diagram for connecting a network cable to the IR eye, in place of its existing DIN cable.  I know nothing of how these are usually wired, but when I’ve cut a network cable in half and taken a look inside, the colours are correct for the first diagram in the attachment from you @Guy, but each of the coloured wires (green, blue, brown, yellow) is in a twisted pair with a white wire, so there are a total of 4 white wires!  Do I connect all 4!?

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks @Guy – I might as well give that a try once it turns up then, as I currently don’t have any other use for that IR eye (and yes, it is the older version with the Timer button).

Like most people I have more than enough network cables in the cupboard so I can easily butcher one!

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks for all of the advice, and glad to know things worked out for you with your Hall Audio order @Carolpa.  Hall Audio have always seemed very helpful to me – in fact I once emailed a question, and Ulrik phoned me in the UK from Denmark to answer that question, and we had a good conversation about what they were working on!

The Essence is on its way to me but hasn’t arrived yet.  It does not include the Essence remote and I don’t think I’ll bother buying one of those – they are quite expensive considering their limited functionality.

My first test will be to connect it via the first method given in @Millemissen‘s helpful info above, and I’ll control it with my phone/tablet (both Android).

I do have a round IR eye going spare, but I would need a different cable for it – if anyone has a wiring diagram for connecting that type of cable, that would be really helpful.

Ultimately though, I’m pretty convinced that getting a Beolink Converter NL/ML is the right way to go, because if I do get any more NL products in the future (which seems likely), that’ll continue to be useful.

I’m waiting until I see a converter up for £100ish on eBay, as I’ve seen them for that price before.

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

An Essence Ms2 just came up on eBay for £129 including delivery, so I snapped it up.  I’ll get an RJ45 to RCA cable to connect it to the Aux In of my Beosound 4, and see how I feel about controlling it on my phone with the app, but I think I will also get an NL/ML converter when I see one at a good price.  There’s a few on eBay now for £250+, but I know I’ll be able to get one for £100, if I’m patient.

I see that the Essence has RCA input too, so that’ll be handy for my Beogram 9500 (connected via a phono stage).

Ultimately, when we have had the work finished in the house in January and I have more space, I intend to go back to using my Beocenter 8500/Beogram 8500 as my main system.  I am hoping that using both a 1611 converter and also an NL/ML converter in sequence will work okay, but if anyone has any experience of that setup, I’d be glad of any tips.

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

I might be asking too much to control the Essence with my B&O remote.  I just don’t like to have to find my phone, unlock it, and fiddle about with it to do simple things on Spotify.

Also, I have my speakers connected to my BV7 so I can get surround sound.  Therefore the BV7 is in Opt2 and the BS4 is in Opt0.  I’m not sure what (if any) option on the BS Essence would work with that setup.

If I see an Essence Mk2 at a good price on eBay I’ll buy it, but otherwise I’ll keep hoping that Hall Audio still find a way of selling that ML Streamer – that thing is exactly what I need!

I’ve also been on the lookout of a Beo5 remote (not a single one available on eBay in the UK right now), and I know that while they are difficult to program they can control third party equipment, so that might be another option – get a non-B&O streamer which can be controlled with IR, and program the Beo5 to control it.  That doesn’t sound easy, but it does sound possible!

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

You may have been lucky to get an Essence Mk2 for £129 – I’ve had my eye out for one for a while now and they go for twice that at least.  I’ll keep looking though.

I have seen NL/ML converters often go for about £100 though, so I guess I might as well look at getting both.  I do have two link room speakers so that would be useful to have it ‘properly’ connected.

@Guy, do you have your Essence connected to any other B&O audio or video equipment?  If so, how you do you select Spotify as a source?

…and from what @Millemissen said, I take it the BS Moment is not recommended!  I have heard some stories of ‘dead tablet’ on those.

It’s such as shame Spotify won’t work on a BS5 – such an attractive piece of kit, and having a dedicated touchscreen would be so useful, but the lack of Spotify is a deal breaker for me.

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Ah – I happen to have a 7-pin audio aux cable going spare, so I have connected that, and it’s working!

I’m not really sure what to expect as I’ve never owned a dedicated subwoofer before, but you can certainly feel that bass from it.

My Beolab Penta Mk3 speakers do suffer a little when playing modern music which has heavy sub-bass – the bass can be a bit distorted and flat, so hopefully with a bit of tinkering with the bass levels, I might be able to get some good bass from the Cona instead.  My Pentas could probably do with a professional service really.

Thanks for your help Madskp, as always.

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

I’m not sure what you mean by ‘fully wired’ Madskp?  I tested it using a Powerlink Mk3 cable.  Would Mk2 cables be what you describe as ‘fully wired’?

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

I haven’t found a way to have ‘only’ PC sound, so I use a workaround, similar to what you have done.

As for Spotify, no, I cannot control Spotify with my Beo4 remote.  I have a touchscreen tablet PC connected to my PC2, and I control Spotify direct on the screen.

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Yes I wondered that myself but it doesn’t work for me – if I select PC, nothing happens, and my Beosound 4 does not switch on (or switch source).  It may work if you have your Beolabs connected direct to the PC2, but it doesn’t seem to work when connected to another audio master via ML.

It does behave a bit oddly to be honest.  If I select CD, Radio, A.Aux or DTV in the Beoport app, my BS4 switches to that sound source, but If I select N.Music or N.Radio in the Beoport app, the source does not change on my BS4.  I have to use my Beo4 remote to select either N.Nadio or N.Music, for some reason.

It may be because I have it in an ML network with a TV too (TV in Opt2, BS4 in Opt0, PC2 in Opt6, with my speakers connected to the TV).  Another oddity is that if I select DTV in the Beoport app it switches to that source but then remains ‘stuck’ on that source – if I then select CD for example, the BS4 starts to play the CD, but I continue to hear the DTV sound.

I’ve tried a number of different option settings but have never been able to get it all to work properly.

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Apologies if I’ve misunderstood, but I still use my PC2 and I do use it to get PC sound – not N.Radio or N.Music; just sound from my PC.

If you go into the Setup and then click the Advanced tab, you’ll see an option for Mix Sound.  Change that option to ‘Yes’.

This sends whatever sound is playing on your PC to the PC2.  I find this useful by using the Spotify app on my PC.  All I do is select N.Radio, and select a station that I know is no longer available – this ensures I only get the PC sound, and not the N.Radio sound too!

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks both.  I already have a Beolink 1000 but that’s in use in another room.

In this room, I also have a Beovision 7, and while a Beolink 1000 will control a BV7, a Beo4 is much better for that.  That’s why I’m thinking of another Beo4, or I might get my first Beo5.

I’ll see if I can get a Beo4 Mk1 or Mk2, or maybe a Beo5, as your test @Guy seems to tell me that this would work.  I may be coming back to you for help with the Beo5 configuration tool if I manage to get hold of one though!

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks for the advice – I’ve performed that test and there is no real friction there at all.  I performed the same test on my BG3000 just for comparison and there is plenty of friction there, so I see exactly what you mean.  I’ve ordered a new belt.

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

I managed to get a pair of Penta’s myself earlier this year, and probably for the same reason as you want them – they may be a bit old now but they are the speakers I dreamed of when I was a teenager!

The foams on the mid-range speakers are prone to degrade – there are four in each speaker.  Kits are available to replace these, and I was able to carry out this work myself on mine.  I am no engineer, but with a bit of patience I was able to do it, and they sound great now.

I use them with a B&O TV/HiFi setup but my understanding is that if you use them with non-B&O equipment and connect them via the Speaker Link or Line In sockets rather than the Powerlink sockets, they switch off after a few minutes of receiving no signal, so you should be okay there.

The displays definitely won’t work for you – they are 100% only for a B&O setup.

You might want to consider getting the passive Beovox Penta instead of the active Beolab Penta, and then adding your own amplifier.  Beovox Penta will come cheaper, and have no display, but look just as good.  Due to having no amplifier in the base, they are about 6″ shorter.  They also of course don’t need to be plugged in to the mains.

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks for the advice @Dillen, the glue dried, and the hook I had glued back on seems firmly fixed this time, so I reattached the wire drive, adjusted the eccentric a little, and the set-down position now seems to be good for both 12″ and 7″ records.  The sound quality seems to be as good as my BG3000 so I’ll keep using it for a while in place of my BG3000, to make sure it continues to work.  I’ve never restored a Beogram before so I’m quite proud of myself!

The only thing I do notice is that when I press Play, the platter seems to spin slowly for 2 or 3 revolutions, but by the time the arm has set down, it has reached the right speed. I’m assuming that this means the belt is worn, so I’ll get a new one – they do them quite cheap on Beoparts Shop (or Danish Sound Parts, as they are now calling themselves).

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks. The little plastic hook that I had glued back in place came loose again, so this time I’ve added a little plastic ‘buttress’ of my own making and glued it back on so it should have a firmer hold. I also got the positioning of the hook more precise this time. When the glue dries I’ll refit the wire drive and give that a try (I saw the adjustment method you mention in the service manual but it said that was more for 7″ records).

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

While searching for a solution to this I found this post on the old forum, and it seems this is a known issue with the BV7.  Those digital A1-A4 coax inputs seem to have known issues.

I will therefore go back to using the Beosystem 3.  This means I have to use link commands to switch on my BV7, but at least it works.

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Further experimentation today – just to make sure there wasn’t a fault on my BV7-32 (maybe the digital audio inputs A1 thru A4 weren’t working, I wondered), I performed the same tests with the same setup connected to my BV7-40.  The results were exactly the same – I get picture. but no sound.

So, it does seem that the modern HDMI digital audio splitters (that provide sound via digital coax) are not compatible with the BV7, for reasons I don’t understand.

Did anyone ever use an HDMI matrix (with digital audio) with a BV7, using the coax digital audio in sockets on the BV7 for sound?  If so, can anyone recommend an HDMI matrix and/or digital audio splitter that would work?

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

Following the above, I wanted to make sure the coax digital output on the HDMI matrix was working, so I connected my speakers up to my Beosystem 3, and connected the HDMI Matrix up to that instead, but using the Connections menu of the BS3, I set it to use SDDIF 1 as the sound input when using HDMI 1.

I did get sound, so at least I now the HDMI Matrix’s digital coax out is working, but I was only able to get it to work in normal stereo – even with the matrix set to output sound in 5.1/DTS format, the BS3 told me that it was only getting a sound signal in 2.0, and when I ran a 5.1 test video on Youtube, the same sound came out of all speakers.

Once I knew the HDMI matrix’s digital coax was working I plugged it back into the BV7 and tried again, but again, I got no sound at all when connected direct to the BV7.

Some compatibility issue between the HDMI matrix and the BV7 and BS3 then, I guess.

If anyone knows of an HDMI matrix that would work with a BV7-32 and give me digital 5.1 sound, please let me know!

Location: Liverpool

[CharlieWednesday]

I’ve been on holiday for a few days but now I’m back, I managed to get hold of a used 4×2 HDMI Matrix/Audio splitter that has a digital coax audio output – this seems quite rare as new ones usually only have optical outputs, which is why I bought this used one.

I exchanged this for my more basic 3×1 HDMI switch (this also had an audio extractor, but analog only, so no use for surround sound).

So, I connected my Google TV to the new HDMI matrix for testing.  I connected a digital coax cable from that to the A1 input on my BV7.  I then went into the Connections menu and altered the AV4/PC connection so that it used ‘A1’ instead of ‘None’ as the audio input.

I get no sound.  I have also tried A2, A3, A4 sockets, but still no sound.  I have tried switching the ARC switch on the HDMI matrix, but it makes no difference.  The HDMI matrix has a lot of EDID options using tiny switches, but I’ve tried them all – I keep getting picture, but no sound.

It’s possible that the digital coax audio output on the HDMI matrix is faulty (it is a used one after all), but before I return it, could I be doing something wrong with the Connections menu settings on my BV7?

Location: Liverpool

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