[billbriscoe]

No they are not, they screw in clockwise (right hand) and screw out counterclockwise (left hand).

The aluminum poles are threaded and screw into the threaded iron base.  WD40 for a few days may be necessary to remove them without damaging the aluminum threads.  I would apply from both the top and bottom.  As Guy mentioned, heat may help (applied to the iron base from the bottom).

Take your time and let the WD40 do a lot of the work so you don’t damaged the aluminum threads.  Applying some type of anti-seize thread compound would be a good idea when re-assembling.

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

I just unpacked my set from the original B&O packaging and I can confirm that the poles are simply screwed into the bases.  As Guy suggests, WD40 (overnight) might help.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

To get into Test Mode with a Beo4 first make certain that “Shift” displays when you scroll through the available commands (press List until you go all the way through).  If it doesn’t show up, you need to add it.  Once it is available on your list, select CD on the remote.  Then, as Guy instructed, scroll through the Beo4 commands until Shift is displayed.  Then enter 90258, this will enter Test Mode and CD will be selected.

[billbriscoe]

I would recommend replacing the current tape belt with the correct one from Danish Sound Parts before trying to make any adjustments.  It’s very likely that an incorrect belt was installed and getting the proper belt will correct your issue.

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 6 days ago by Dillen.

[billbriscoe]

That’s the plastic battery tray that holds the 3 batteries.  If you turn the Bedtime upside down and tap it against your hand it should slide down, a few more gentle taps on the side and you should be able to remove it.

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

first make sure the Beo4 is working. If you don’t have another B&O product to confirm it works, you can use the camera on a phone to record while pressing some buttons. The video will show the infrared pulses that you can’t see with the naked eye. On the Beo4 the lens is the small plastic piece on the edge above the display screen.  If your camera has picked up the pulses you know the remote is working.

If the remote is working you need to make sure the BS2000 has remote operation enabled. With the unit in standby, push the standby button (red dot), then sound, 1, store.  You should see a 1 flash in the display. This will enable remote operation.

If the remote is working properly and remote operation is enabled but the system still doesn’t respond you will need the kit. Dillen is the best and beoparts is the best place to source the proper parts.

[billbriscoe]

you can always try to set the option from the Century keyboard.  With the Century in standby, push the standby button, then Sound, then 1, then Store.  It should flash a 1 in the display.

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

The two gears come as a set, I bought mine on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/165045167629?hash=item266d75660d:g:ZG8AAOSwa1xfVNKC

They are high quality.  You can also look into the DCC Museum at: https://www.dccmuseum.com/service-spare-parts/

you have to become a member, I think I paid $36 to “join” to be able to buy spare parts like pinch rollers, the gears, belt.  The BS2000 used a Philips cassette that was used in a digital compact cassette machine (DCC) and some of the parts are still available from these guys.

If you just need the gear set, the eBay seller is the way to go.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

I have purchased this item and it can be made to work with a little careful preparation:

https://www.reichelt.com/us/en/el-luminescent-film-10-x-10-cm-luminescent-white-el-folie-1010ws-p45968.html?&trstct=pos_0&nbc=1

[billbriscoe]

Hi Peter,

have you tried (with the BL1000) pressing Link, 6, Store?  (you could also try 4 or 5).

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

Have you verified that the CD centering mechanism is set to the correct position (vertical or horizontal, wall or table)?

When you moved it to lay flat on the table did you adjust the settings for horizontal orientation?  These adjustment “screws” on the bottom of the unit are definitely required to be in the proper position for correct operation.

That’s the first thing to check.

 

Bill

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

I guess the first thing to do is to make sure the keyboard is properly seated in its holder. I would suggest removing it, check for any lint, dirt, etc. and then reinsert carefully making sure it is engaged in the connector first before pushing it down.  This can be a bit tricky. You may want to try both of the possible orientations to be sure it’s a problem in both positions.

If you are absolutely sure that it is fully seated properly and still doesn’t respond, then see the the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR2RgUSTrss

It hows how to remove the top cover, once you get that removed you can see the cables from the secondary keyboard and where they attach to the PCBs. Make sure they are snug.

I’ve removed the top cover for repairs on two of my BS9000s, one for a loose keyboard cable and once to clean the gear drive. In both cases it was not too difficult if you have a video or the service manual.  I recommend upgrading your membership to get access to the service manual, it’s well worth it.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

The buttons along the lower edge of the front side are considered the primary keyboard and the set on the “operation panel” are known as the secondary keyboard in the B&O service manual.  Was the unit shipped or transported in order to get to you?  I ask because I once purchased a unit that was shipped in the original packaging but arrived with a dead secondary keyboard.  Everything else worked fine including the remote.  It turned out that the connector plug from the secondary keyboard had become dislodged from the PCB.  Once I plugged it back in, it worked just fine. Unfortunately, it does require some disassembly, but the service manual describes all the steps and it’s relatively straightforward.  Hopefully that’s all that’s wrong with yours too.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

If you had to reset the option setting to 1 often, I would guess that the internal backup battery has died and should be replaced.  You don’t want it to leak and damage anything.

Make sure that the upper part of the front panel of the BM7000 is very clean and also the red “glass” windows on your remotes.

To quickly test if the remotes are sending IR signals, you can use the camera on your phone to record a video. The BL 1000 IR emitters are located along the top edge and  around to the bottom under the red “glass” covers.  Point the camera at the emitters and start recording then start pushing buttons and the remote.  Playback the video and check to see if you see the emitters flashing.  You can’t see them with the naked eye.  The MCP 5500 emitters are located at the corners of the red “glass” along the back edge. Take another video of the MCP5500 and see what happens.

If you see the one or both of the remotes flashing then you can rule one or both out. If either one is working, use it and get close to the BM7000 and press sound > 1 store.  If the BM7000 standby light doesn’t blink once, it didn’t receive the IR signal.

Report back your findings and hopefully other members will have some more helpful input.

Good luck,

Bill

[billbriscoe]

Hi Lee,

Thank you so much for all you’ve done over the years! And many thanks also to Keith for keeping the site up and running in spite of all the crazy hackers out there!

How about just an annual Prize Draw with an increase in membership fees to keep the site going?

I made a donation and I would hope that many others will do the same.  We all learn and gain an immeasurable amount of useful knowledge to keep our units alive.

Many thanks again to you and Keith!

Bill

[billbriscoe]

beoparts.com has crossover kits for pentad, you may want to check them out

[billbriscoe]

I also think this is a communication issue. I would double check the flat ribbon cable connections between the chips and the board, and check the cable connections at the cd mechanism as well just in case something was disturbed while you were changing the door belt and updating the software. If those are all properly seated then I also think it’s time to try the original software and see if that gets the unit back to where it was before. In test mode, clear all of the error codes first and then see what comes up.

My BS3000 battery leaked onto the board it’s mounted on and etched some of the traces beneath the battery. I had to replace the board and battery and now it’s back to normal operation.

[billbriscoe]

have you looked down into the masterlink socket on the BS3000 to check for dust, lint, or some other foreign stuff, and to make sure no pins are bent/touching?

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

Did you disconnect everything from power before plugging in the masterlink cable at the BS3000? I would suggest trying the BS3000 as standalone again, no masterlink connected.

See if that makes any difference first.

[billbriscoe]

It’s hard to say. Everything else is “connected” to the power supply board either directly or indirectly. There are some very sensitive parts that may have been damaged. If the fuses did their job you should be ok as they should have failed first, disconnecting power everywhere upstream. I would think chances are good that the fuses blew first.
The fuses are soldered to the PCB and if I recall correctly you remove the back cover panel to be able to remove PCB 5. This can be a real PITA. You can visually examine it by removing the gearbox.

Take your time and go one step at a time.

[Author]

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