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There are 2 distinctly different problems with different solutions.
#1 – as you describe, the clamper arm contacts the disc. On page 4.5 of the service manual (Sledge) you see 2 screws #34. These adjust the clamper arm.
#2 – the sledge strikes the discs (from below) as it moves from one disc to another. The rocker arm or rocker arm damper can be replaced to cure this, or the 2 small springs that are part of Module 9122 that attach to Modules 9137/9138 need to be replaced. These 2 small springs are what moves the sledge when you center the CD Mechanism (using the two placement screws mentioned above).
It seemed like you were describing issue #1 above, if so adjusting the set screws to get the clamper arm setup correctly seems right. This is described on page 5.2 of the service manual (for MK3).
The rocker arm repair is described somewhere on the forum with photos if I recall.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by
billbriscoe.
The clamper arm can be adjusted to raise it back to being parallel to the top plate. You can check the service manual or search the forum for the topic, there are a few threads on this. It requires removing the glass lid and the top plate for the clamper arm. Then you can access the adjustment screws.
Hi,
Just to check the obvious, are you using the MCP5000 to memorize? When you have chosen the desire volume did you press “Store”, and then when a “P” blinks did you press “Sound”?
One of the site sponsors, Danish Sound Parts (see the link down below) has the part you need: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/disc-drive-suspension-rubber-repair-kit-for-beogram-cd5500-cd6500-cd7000
Have you checked to see if there’s anything common among the discs that don’t play? Some discs can be SACD (or HDCD) and will have some notation on the case or the CD. Some SACDs are dual layer where one is PCM, and one is DSD. Our older B&O units can’t decode DSD, only PCM, so if you have discs that are single layer SACD they won’t play. Just a thought…
I would check the 3V battery to see if it has leaked and etched the board beneath it. I had a BS3000 with the same symptoms and it turned out that the battery had leaked and the acid etched the traces. The battery is on PCB 3 (Microcomputer).
Bill
I would guess that it’s the laser and you can very likely get a proper replacement from Danish Sound Parts. That’s the first thing to try. You’ll want to remove your unit to confirm the model so that you order the correct laser. I don’t recommend going the donor route at this point.
The older unit with a “curved”, or radial laser, is not plug and play with a CDM12, it’s a CDM4 (most likely a CDM4/19).
Bill
Today I installed a new laser module in the defective assembly I swapped out yesterday and installed it in the BS2000 and that complete assembly works again. I can’t guarantee that a new laser module will fix your problem but I suspect it will.
Good luck getting in up and working!
When I first ran through the tests I had a CD loaded so I couldn’t see what the lens was doing but I could see that the turntable motor was not spinning the disc. The only error code that ever showed up was 2 – focus error. I then removed the CD and ran through again and the lens tried to focus briefly but stopped and the turntable did not move. No test was able to move the turntable. I assume that if the first test (40) results in a 2, no other test after that will work.
I then pulled out a different BS2000 unit that uses the radial type (CDM4 variant) and ran through the tests and everything worked just fine, each test did exactly what it was supposed to do in terms of moving the laser around and moving the turntable. CDs play properly.
Because I had a known working complete assembly to swap in and test I didn’t spend any time trying to diagnose the problem with the bad unit. I suspect a bad laser module as I’ve replaced many of these linear type units over the years in BS2000s, BS3000s, and BS4000s. In every case a new laser module solved the problem. I’ve never had any luck with the deep cleaning process restoring the module but I can see how it would in some cases where significant dust buildup would be a problem.
Good luck with yours
Hi,
I just pulled out one of my Bs2000’s with a linear CD drive mechanism (CD Pro) that was working last year. It would not play a CD now so I ran through the different CD options in test mode and was able to replicate your results exactly. I swapped out the complete CD mechanism (transport and servo board) with a known good unit and it worked fine again. While the BS2000 was out of service it was stored in an extra bedroom and properly covered so no dust could get to it (top. bottom, and sides). In this case I doubt that cleaning would help. I would guess from my experience with these units that you need to replace the laser diode. Check Danish Sound Parts (https://www.dksoundparts.com/) for the correct laser module for your unit.
It’s well worth the money to keep it up and running properly.
Bill
Hi,
First, check to make sure the CD transport locking screws on the back of the unit are loose (turn them counterclockwise to loosen. Then try test mode again, especially 42, 44, and 45. These will test the movement of the assembly.
I can’t tell from the photo if the opening for the laser beam is a vertical straight-line going down from the center of the clamper or a curved (radial) opening that’s slightly to the left of center at it’s lowest point. It matters a bit because the laser diode unit (lens) in the straight-line version is less reliable than the radial version.
If you have the straight-line version, it may be that the grease on the rails has hardened and the unit can no longer move at all. It may need to be cleaned and re-lubricated. You’ll want to check this, I think, to ensure that the assembly can move freely up and down the rails if you get a 3 or 4 from the test mode checks. You can “exercise” the CD mechanism manually by turning the large white gear to make the assembly move (as Guy has suggested).
The cd mechanism in the radial units is very robust, and significantly different from the CD Pro model (straight-line version) and it can’t be “exercised” in the same way. You can tip CD assembly unit (while still installed to the base plate after removal from the BS2000) from left to right in your hand to check and see if the laser unit will move along its radial path.
As Guy suggests, inspecting cable connections, looking for obvious component failures is the way to get more information.
These are very nice units and well worth taking the time to get back into working order.
Good luck!
Bill
No they are not, they screw in clockwise (right hand) and screw out counterclockwise (left hand).
The aluminum poles are threaded and screw into the threaded iron base. WD40 for a few days may be necessary to remove them without damaging the aluminum threads. I would apply from both the top and bottom. As Guy mentioned, heat may help (applied to the iron base from the bottom).
Take your time and let the WD40 do a lot of the work so you don’t damaged the aluminum threads. Applying some type of anti-seize thread compound would be a good idea when re-assembling.
Hi,
I just unpacked my set from the original B&O packaging and I can confirm that the poles are simply screwed into the bases. As Guy suggests, WD40 (overnight) might help.
Bill
To get into Test Mode with a Beo4 first make certain that “Shift” displays when you scroll through the available commands (press List until you go all the way through). If it doesn’t show up, you need to add it. Once it is available on your list, select CD on the remote. Then, as Guy instructed, scroll through the Beo4 commands until Shift is displayed. Then enter 90258, this will enter Test Mode and CD will be selected.
11 September 2024 at 01:41 in reply to: Beoystem 2500 – Cassette Deck Plays Too Fast and Sliding Door Issues #58996I would recommend replacing the current tape belt with the correct one from Danish Sound Parts before trying to make any adjustments. It’s very likely that an incorrect belt was installed and getting the proper belt will correct your issue.
That’s the plastic battery tray that holds the 3 batteries. If you turn the Bedtime upside down and tap it against your hand it should slide down, a few more gentle taps on the side and you should be able to remove it.
Hi,
first make sure the Beo4 is working. If you don’t have another B&O product to confirm it works, you can use the camera on a phone to record while pressing some buttons. The video will show the infrared pulses that you can’t see with the naked eye. On the Beo4 the lens is the small plastic piece on the edge above the display screen. If your camera has picked up the pulses you know the remote is working.
If the remote is working you need to make sure the BS2000 has remote operation enabled. With the unit in standby, push the standby button (red dot), then sound, 1, store. You should see a 1 flash in the display. This will enable remote operation.
If the remote is working properly and remote operation is enabled but the system still doesn’t respond you will need the kit. Dillen is the best and beoparts is the best place to source the proper parts.
you can always try to set the option from the Century keyboard. With the Century in standby, push the standby button, then Sound, then 1, then Store. It should flash a 1 in the display.
Hi,
The two gears come as a set, I bought mine on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/165045167629?hash=item266d75660d:g:ZG8AAOSwa1xfVNKC
They are high quality. You can also look into the DCC Museum at: https://www.dccmuseum.com/service-spare-parts/
you have to become a member, I think I paid $36 to “join” to be able to buy spare parts like pinch rollers, the gears, belt. The BS2000 used a Philips cassette that was used in a digital compact cassette machine (DCC) and some of the parts are still available from these guys.
If you just need the gear set, the eBay seller is the way to go.
Bill
Hi,
I have purchased this item and it can be made to work with a little careful preparation:
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This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by
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