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My only values are what hits my ears.
I have phase-plugged many different midrange drivers and foam-frame quite a few brands also, mainly vintage Polk. Many others have followed suit ad I plugged and foamed a multitude of Polk drivers for many vintage Polk owners. You can read about what phase plugs do to mitigate the drivers’ cross cone frequency cancellation/destruction. Voices, cymbals and low sax for instance become more coherent by adding them. The open-cell foam inside the baskets prevent the backwaves from returning to the cones and coloring the sound.
That said, these B&O cabinets are a thinner alloy and took too a few other modifications like butyl mating the interiors to ameliorate the last bit of cabinet resonances I was hearing/experiencing. I also added a5/8″ layer of open-cell foam on the back walls to nix any errant backwave. The combination is now contributing to the most accurate signal possible eminating from the transducers.
On recommendation from another CX100 owner I removed the factory tweeter’ s phase cup and machined a slightly wider profile billet alloy ring to the throat for wider dispersion… I also added real lamb’s wool to lower it’s FS and melt with the midrange that much better. I Am very happy I did so…
- Thank you. You did a fine job yourself, takes Alot of patience. Yes, I painted the frames satin black to match the cones. I rebuilt crossovers with film caps and wire-wound resistors. I also machined and phase-plugged the midranges, as well as foamed the inner baskets frames for ultimate clarity. I’m running them in conjunction with a rebuilt Polk RM-1000 subwoofer and custom tpa3255 amp to match aesthetically. Pure audio bliss.
