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BRONZE MemberYes.
Location: Central OregonBrand new flywheel belt from Beo-Parts.
$23, includes free shipping First Class in bubble pack in USA.
Location: Central OregonBeogram 45 record adapter from the 1900.
$20, free shipping First Class in bubble pack in the USA.
Location: Central OregonThanks for the quick reply Mark!
Once the arm lifts off the record, and rests … dead quiet. This is phono cable (original with new Neutrik plugs).
The platter only spins at 33 … so when pressing “45” it acts the same.
Location: Central OregonTook me awhile to deal with some cartridge retipping and got the MMC6000 back, that is now on the 1900. Sounds really good. But I have two issues. I hope to dig in this weekend, to check.
First is I get a hum, mostly left channel, once stylus is on the record and passing a signal. I did try without the ground wire attached, and carefully touching RCA’s and phono cable. I’m pretty sure it is going to be on the circuit board.
Second, 45 speed on the button doesn’t seem to work. It’s the funkiest design I have ever seen for a control button, but maybe I’m doing it wrong.
Other than than, other controls work, set down is correct and arm/weight/VTF is all correct.
I know it was mentioned to replace two, or more capacitors. C1, C3, C4, C5 were mentioned earlier in the thread. Maybe that will fix the hum. But to access the circuit board, do I remove the flywheel? I have three pdf service manuals and I don’t see any info on this.
I would guess that the 45 rpm speed adjust is oxidized.
I am open to ideas. After getting the motor rebuilt and having it work nicely, and a new flywheel belt, I’m not willing to give up on this deck.
Location: Central OregonParts arrived today and the deck is spinning like a charm. What a difference those bearings made. Thanks for the advice!!! I’ll get some pics posted … maybe video.
Here’s one pic for tonight.
Location: Central OregonI’ll measure the distance before doing that. Thanks
Parts order shipped this morning ๐
Location: Central OregonSticking point … can’t get the copper washer off.
Location: Central OregonSounds good. So to clarify, once cleaning all the grease off now, I don’t need the SAE30 oil. Cool. I appreciate it!
Location: Central OregonBased on your comment, this won’t be a good option.
Super Lube has PTFE https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-synthetic-grease-with-syncolon-ptfe-21030
What would you suggest?
Location: Central OregonPerfect, thanks!
Are you familiar with Super Lube multipurpose synthetic grease with Syncolonยฎ??
Location: Central OregonThanks for that clarification.
One point on removal of the motor spindle. Am I correct in thinking that is better removed from the top side?
Location: Central OregonGood to get that confirmation, thanks! I’ll order those now and let you know when I’m ready to roll. Since it’s coming from EU, who knows how long it will take. What are those felt washers for? I don’t see any place for those.
Last year I was lucky to have access to a food bag pump setup to infuse bearings. No longer, so I agree with your comment. I can send the ones in here off to a buddy who can do, and keep for future use.
Location: Central OregonMotor service
I have three pics here as reference. It may help someone else since I can’t find many pics of a 1900 motor.
There is a sintered bearing in the cover with a plastic plug on the outside. I am guessing there is no harm in pushing it out from the bearing side.
There is an oily substance covering the housing the motor shaft sits in. I am guessing that should not be, and that it simply migrated over the years from the only spots that should be lubricated, the bearings. Am I wrong?
Since the service manual doesn’t address removal, I am also guessing the motor spindle needs to be pulled out from the top, after removing the idler wheel, and it looks like removing one motor spring will be enough to clear the flywheel
Location: Central OregonBingo! It moves only when I move it. There is no play, or spinning on it’s own once I let off.
Thanks! I’ll get that serviced. I have a synthetic lube called Super Lube that I normally use. I assume this type of motor is ok with that?
Location: Central OregonThis is an odd duck. I was looking at the linkage, and the +/- Turn dial. Adjusted that and the motor slowly stars to spin. In slow motion, the tonearm swung into place. The speed of the motor slowly increased through the process, but still not fast. But it was spinning, so maybe I just need to service the motor for good measure.
Is there a “best” way to service the motor? As in, I can remove the bottom cover to access, but it is preferable to pull the entire assembly off?
Location: Central OregonI appreciate that Mark, thanks!
I’ll dig in tomorrow. If I don’t have the right values on hand, I’ll have to order, which means it could be a week to get those back, installed and tested. But I will update this thread with my status as it changes.
Location: Central OregonHere a pic with the platter on. There is a little crack on some rings, but seems to still be good. I’ll leave that alone. The tonearm and top plate are in good shape.
Location: Central Oregon -
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