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Thank you very much Peter and Territorial_ for responding. I have seen audio-origin on ebay in the last day or so and am thinking of giving them a try. I have an SP10 and an SP14, both of which appear to be still have perfectly smooth tips under microscope but I guess the cantilevers may have taken some wear over their nearly 50 years. The advertised SP10/12/14 elliptical is a pricey matter but I’m hoping it will be worth the expenditure quoted at £269.

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Attachments second try….

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• Hi Martin, I’m pleased to say that I’ve now completed changing the bearings on both decks and they are running smoothly at the right speed. They are however both still making a (lower) level of ambient noise which sounds like the motor running and the idler wheel against the drive cone. I’m attaching two short recordings of the sound from close by and then at 1m distance to demonstrate the attenuation. I’d appreciate you experienced opinion here as I can’t now judge how much drive noise there was before the 2000 deck hit problems. I can only compare with my recent Pro-Ject deck which is near enough silent. Given these B&O decks are nearly 50 years old, do you think I should expect to hear some ambient drive noise or is there a likely cause I can address? I have changed bearings, belts, idler wheels and lifter pads so not sure what more I can do! Many thanks, Richard

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Hi Martin,

I have checked the motors and you are quite right, all 4 bearings are non-collared so I have ordered 2 pairs to replace them. May I please ask 2 (last?) questions?

1 you mentioned I should use “oil suitable for use with sinter-bronze. It needs to have the
right additives.” Can you recommend one that I should use? I’m thinking of using WD40 white lithium grease spray, would that be OK?

2 Should I spray the oil into the new reservoir felts? Many thanks, Richard.

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Thank you for that advice Martin. That is information way beyond my knowledge and it seems lubricating the bearings may be of limited benefit. May I ask please if I should order Beoparts (now: Danish Sound Parts) “Motor bearings set for Beogram & Beocenter motor with 3mm spindle and one collared bearing” for both types 1203 and 2000/5244?  It may be that I need to first take apart the two motors to check whether or not they each<!–more–> require one collared bearing.

Thank you,

Richard

• This reply was modified 1 week, 1 day ago by Dillen.
• This reply was modified 1 week, 1 day ago by Dillen.

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Hi Christian and Martin,

Thank you both for responding on this. I have now watched (and saved!) one of the you tube videos which shows me exactly how to access both the bottom and top bearings for the motor. It appears more straightforward than I thought so I will access and lubricate the 2 bearings on the 1203 and if that quietens the motor I’ll repeat it on the 2000/ 5244. I have also now checked using noise cancelling headphones that the noise is not transmitted with the output signal and pleased to say it is not. It’s just ambient and slightly annoying close to the deck but a bit less with the lid on. I really appreciate your help and think I now have the answers I was looking for. If cleaning and lubing the bearings does not work then I’ll buy and fit new ones.

Thanks again!

Richard

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Martin, I’m wondering if you could help me here please? I recall your advice earlier  to replace the bearings, which I really appreciated. I need a steer on how to remove the old bearings and whether there is an appropriate removal tool for these which are the 3mm drive shaft size. Help!

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1. Thank you very much Martin. That confirms what I thought it should be. I’ve ordered a replacement small pad as it is missing. Possibly disintegrated. Thanks again. Much appreciated.
2. Richard

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That’s really helpful – thank you!

I had the motor replaced a couple of years ago so I think that should be fine but I have noticed the re-assembly of the parts was wrong with inversion of Spacers causing some impacts which I have now fixed. I don’t have the service manual so may I ask for your assistance with one more question please?  Please see the attached image from Beoparts of the idler wheel underside. My question is should the end of the lifter arm fit into the slot in the side of the brass bush or does the brass bush sit on the idler arm held in place by gravity? In the slot appears to make more sense.

 

Many thanks,

 

Richard

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Hi Martin, thanks for the advice. May I ask for your help with two things please? Any idea where I can source the parts? Secondly is there a recommended lubricant? Many thanks, Richard.

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