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Having now disassembled and serviced these 1991 speakers, I found one of the boards not quite securely attached to the amplifier body — it had a bit of room to move and, perhaps, resonate when the relay activated. These 2500s seem much quieter now that I’ve tightened the board up.
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Will be curious to see any photos you might be able to take! I’ve just hand-delivered my US-market BL5000 to Steffen in Copenhagen for his specialized repair service. Luckily mine was only missing a few pixel rows; I was a bit nervous about opening it up in case I caused more damage…
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A few things come to mind — I’m sure you adjusted the tracking weight for the MMC4 when you put it on the 7000, but just wanted to check. Also, I recapped the RIAA pre-amp in my 6500 and noticed a great improvement in the sound…
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That’s great — wonder what the MCP 6500 was used with, given that it’s not a natural pair for any of the other equipment?
There are some useful service parts available for the 2400 here: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product-category/beomaster/beomaster-2400/
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Yes, I’ve had wonderful service and parts from DKSoundParts for a long time. You can track the packages to the States using the “PostNord” app.
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I have my 2913 open for service now as well. I think the lids are dampened by a round device inside which a lever gets dragged through grease, or possibly just plastic friction.
But the key aspect is that the lid hinge needs to be connected to this round dampening device via a thin cord. Do you see any such string or cable? It will be the opposite side from the spring system.
Essentially the spring on one side is always trying to pull the lid open, and the cord connected to the dampening device on the other side slows it down once the Programming button is pressed and the spring contracts, opening the lid.
On my 2000 the cord had jumped one of the pulleys, but was still wound round the smaller metal axle.
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I was watching a video about the BeoCord 2000 and happened to catch where the transparent washer should go… I had tried this myself but found it to be a tight fit so I didn’t force it. Turns out (at least according to this video) the tension is on purpose to keep the capstan in place – and perhaps to prevent any lubricating oil from seeping upwards?
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Interesting, were you able to find direct replacements for the super tweeters?
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Thanks, that’s reassuring 🙂 In other washer-related notes, it’s interesting how there are both front and back black (cardboard?) washers for the two screws that secure the heat sink. The ones on the outside back of the machine are easy enough to get right, but I’m guessing the interior ones were constantly lost. (I found both of mine lurking in the bottom tray of the BeoCord…)
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Here is a scan of the 1989-1990 MCL2 System Guide that I have:
https://archive.org/details/Bang-Olufsen-Master-Control-Link-2-System-Manual-89-90
It’s for the North American market, which may make it of special interest. The NTSC MX5000 and VX5000 are big focus of the publication. I’d be especially interested in how it differs from the “March 1990” one in @Madskp ‘s post!
Most of the in-wall installation items at the end are European — however, I have some North American wall parts in my collection that I’d like to document as well.
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Would it be of interest to get these scanned and uploaded somwhere — or are they already in the Members section?
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Just wanted to say thank you to @lausvi for uploading this! I have a two-way 6500 and would happy to dump the ROMs in case they aren’t already preserved. Can I ask what hardware you used to do yours?
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Wow, this is really great! I’d be glad to test or assist in any way I can after it’s released.
One particular use case I’m curious about would be a “smart” interposer device, for units such as the BeoCenter 2300 with only one AUX port. In theory this could intercept a start signal from either a BeoGram or a BeoTooth, and allow just that device to switch the 2300 on to that source. (A kind of automated version of the old four-port AUX Expander.)
Is there any equipment you would like to see it tested on? I have a MCP6500 and BL7000 for example…
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I was flying through Kastrup and had a chance to demo these. Beta version of the firmware, obviously, but they sounded quite nice. They were demonstrated with spatial/Atmos music, which isn’t quite my taste, but I thought they were great otherwise.
They are of course on the AirPods model, but with a satisfying heft and solidness that contrasts with the plastic of Apple’s earbuds. (Disclaimer: I use both regular AirPods and AirPods Pro every day and think they are some of the best things Apple’s ever produced.) The solidity doesn’t feel too heavy or uncomfortable — but it does give them a nicely different feel from other earpods.
The price will be what most folks take away from this product, of course, — and not in a good way. I suspect many will be bought on international transit to save the VAT/MOMS for participating countries. They offered me a chance to do so on a pre-order basis, but I’ll be back in Denmark in December and will take another listen then.
Sorry this is short on audio details; my takeaway was “really quite good” in terms of playback quality.
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Good to see people keeping this set working! Were any of the capacitors hard to get, or were they pretty much all available?
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Bumping this thread to note that it appears Atlantic Systems in Hanover, MA has now closed; does anyone know the details?
I had visited both their original location and their new smaller shop when I lived in the Northeast, most recently around 2022 – I was sad to discover they are gone.
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A quick link to some pictures of assembly:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/peterl/albums/72177720322347136
Despite my slightly dodgy soldering skills, everything works! The attention to detail on these kits is amazing, from the flush-mount LED, to the molding of the case itself, to the label, to the cable strain relief. Highly recommended!
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Many thanks for these ideas! Upon re-testing both the good and bad speakers, I discovered there is no continuity on the bad one (and thus obviously no ohm measurement.) The known-good woofer both shows continuity, and also reads out 5ohms.
Tracing a broken internal wire seems a bit easier than other problems, so I will start with that!
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