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I just changed the belt on my (mechanically very similar) BG6500 the other day and was reminded how much larger an old belt will be versus the new one (from DKSoundParts.) Putting the old belt on a flat surface showed it had not stretched evenly but rather around the area which had been in contact with the motor. (Doubtless due to a few years where it was packed in storage and not used.)
Anyway, a new belt for the platter would be my first move. And on this model I can also reccomend cleaning off the old grease from the two metal rails and replacing with new TS-005 from DSP.
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Restored DataLink functionality on my Beogram 6500 — this had mysteriously stopped working, despite other functions being OK. Tried it on different systems (Beomaster 6500 and Beosound 2300) with the same result, and validated that DataLink was working on those two systems by using my old 1984 Beocord 2000.
Recapped the RIAA board — perhaps that would fix it? Nope — and not surprising given DataLink just takes a jog through that board without any passives in the way.
Test continuity all the way from Pin 7 to the logic chip? No problems there…
What fixed it was… apparently replacing the 2.2μF cap on the main board? Or at least that’s the only one of the two caps that had a problem, with an ESR of 25. The capacitance itself was fine at 2.12μF, and the 470μF axial cap I also replaced was also OK at 447μF and 1.6 ESR.
Bonus — can you find the spurious magnet hanging out in the attached photo? Pretty sure it was left over from someone servicing it before; the actual magnet inside the electromagnetic relay was not missing so this is an ‘extra’!Location: Silicon Valley
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Let’s see, there is this brief troubleshooting guide in the service manual:
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Sure, you can remove the BeoLab from the base. There is some info on BeoCentral that suggests “all that [is] needed [is] to shorten the mounting studs and fit the stands directly to the bottom of the cabinet”.
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Finally fixed the CD skipping on my Beosound 2300, and I’m embarrassed to say it was simpler than I thought: dried or non-existant grease on the transport rails. Drove me crazy because the skip happened at a very certain point on a CD, down to the second each time. So I thought it was a scratch in the CD — but a new copy of that same CD skipped in nearly the same place. Obviously it was that particular area of the rail that was either blocked by gunk or too dry.
Oh well, I got a CDM12 controller board re-cap out of it… (and all these SMD’s seen below tested within spec after removal, of course! 🙂
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Yes, thank you — glad I went back to put that back in! 🙂
I have since found that you can get bulk packages of these in various random sizes by looking for “Audio Lock Plates” on eBay. As always they ship from China, and surely many of the kinds are not useful, but I figured they are so easy to lose I should have some spares for the next deck I repair…
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Having now disassembled and serviced these 1991 speakers, I found one of the boards not quite securely attached to the amplifier body — it had a bit of room to move and, perhaps, resonate when the relay activated. These 2500s seem much quieter now that I’ve tightened the board up.
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Will be curious to see any photos you might be able to take! I’ve just hand-delivered my US-market BL5000 to Steffen in Copenhagen for his specialized repair service. Luckily mine was only missing a few pixel rows; I was a bit nervous about opening it up in case I caused more damage…
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A few things come to mind — I’m sure you adjusted the tracking weight for the MMC4 when you put it on the 7000, but just wanted to check. Also, I recapped the RIAA pre-amp in my 6500 and noticed a great improvement in the sound…
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That’s great — wonder what the MCP 6500 was used with, given that it’s not a natural pair for any of the other equipment?
There are some useful service parts available for the 2400 here: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product-category/beomaster/beomaster-2400/
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Yes, I’ve had wonderful service and parts from DKSoundParts for a long time. You can track the packages to the States using the “PostNord” app.
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I have my 2913 open for service now as well. I think the lids are dampened by a round device inside which a lever gets dragged through grease, or possibly just plastic friction.
But the key aspect is that the lid hinge needs to be connected to this round dampening device via a thin cord. Do you see any such string or cable? It will be the opposite side from the spring system.
Essentially the spring on one side is always trying to pull the lid open, and the cord connected to the dampening device on the other side slows it down once the Programming button is pressed and the spring contracts, opening the lid.
On my 2000 the cord had jumped one of the pulleys, but was still wound round the smaller metal axle.
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I was watching a video about the BeoCord 2000 and happened to catch where the transparent washer should go… I had tried this myself but found it to be a tight fit so I didn’t force it. Turns out (at least according to this video) the tension is on purpose to keep the capstan in place – and perhaps to prevent any lubricating oil from seeping upwards?
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Interesting, were you able to find direct replacements for the super tweeters?
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Thanks, that’s reassuring 🙂 In other washer-related notes, it’s interesting how there are both front and back black (cardboard?) washers for the two screws that secure the heat sink. The ones on the outside back of the machine are easy enough to get right, but I’m guessing the interior ones were constantly lost. (I found both of mine lurking in the bottom tray of the BeoCord…)
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Here is a scan of the 1989-1990 MCL2 System Guide that I have:
https://archive.org/details/Bang-Olufsen-Master-Control-Link-2-System-Manual-89-90
It’s for the North American market, which may make it of special interest. The NTSC MX5000 and VX5000 are big focus of the publication. I’d be especially interested in how it differs from the “March 1990” one in @Madskp ‘s post!
Most of the in-wall installation items at the end are European — however, I have some North American wall parts in my collection that I’d like to document as well.
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Would it be of interest to get these scanned and uploaded somwhere — or are they already in the Members section?
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Just wanted to say thank you to @lausvi for uploading this! I have a two-way 6500 and would happy to dump the ROMs in case they aren’t already preserved. Can I ask what hardware you used to do yours?
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