[notwist]

OK battery has arrived. Put it in the remote control. Sadly no change. I was able to find someone with experience on the Beo quad. I will let him work on it.

He can work on it around September this year so let the wait begin. Really curious as to what the problem is.

Regards, Bert

[notwist]

I was able to procure a compatible battery from a Dutch supplier. It should be here much faster, maybe I can test it tomorrow.

 

Regards, Bert

[notwist]

This information is superbe to clarify expected behavior as it does differ from other beomasters.

Mine doesn’t do anything, it just sits there glaring at me with it’s beady red eye. It doesn’t respond to pressing the standby button.

The only thing I could think of is that literally all lamps are dead. So you wouldn’t know if it did spring to life. But that is really far fetched. That said, certain lamps be crucial to the operation, I just don’t dare to put a multimeter in there. With my eyesight it’s really easy to mess up.

Let’s wait and see what the battery for the commander does.

Regards,

Bert

[notwist]

Okay I checked this. For sure when I power the Beo there is no relay click. I can hear the transformer and there is a red light. But no relay. Hnnnnm.

[notwist]

OK check. It is another type but I guess it will work all the same. Will take some time to get to me, can’t give an update within a week or so.

 

Regards, Bert

[notwist]

Hey Henrik,

No problem and all insights are very much welcome. I am relate to feeling the clock ticking.

I put the machine in service mode. And removed the aluminium front. I’ve done this kind of work so often I can literally do this blind.

My spare eyes (read: wife) says there is nothing strange to see. No blown components and very clean.

I think the red light might be the infrared sensor, but guessing here. I do have the remote the set is complete.

Problem with the remote is that it needs a 15v battery. In some special format. For the love of me, I can’t find it for anything resembling a reasonable price. I think I would pay €30 for one.

But will search further because it is a good idea. I had a beo that also had a stuck it receiver that didn’t respond to anything.

 

Regards,

Bert

 

[notwist]

Hey Henrik,

Nice to meet you here. Sorry for the mixup ?.

Perhaps we could speak about restoring the Beo 6000. It shows no response after powering it up. Just a red light. I’m unsure if this is a standby light or the IR light.

It would be a shame to scrap it. Because I have suddenly become nearly blind I’m not able to do anything with it anymore.

 

Many thanks for your time!

Kind regards,

Bert

 

[notwist]

Check, all clear!

Happy my 8000 system is working well now. Looks fantastic in the official furniture.

Regards, Bert

[notwist]

Sadly I can’t find Hendrik using the search engine. Does anyone know his username?

Regards,

Bert

[notwist]

OK this works, no more hum. I also tried it on a beomaster 6500 (from the 90’s). This also works without a hum. Sadly the datalink doesn’t seem to work, when I use the remote to stop / start the beogram it doesn’t do anything. I can hear some electronic noise though, over the speakers. Odd.

Nevertheless, many thanks!

Bert

Ps: how would I connect the beogram to an older beo that uses the 5 pin fin? Do I then remove the 2 screws from the cable?

[notwist]

Thanks.

I think I’ve found the correct cable. It is labeled PH (phomo) I think. One end has 7 pins and the other end has 5 pins and 2 screws.

Should I remove the screws or leave them be? I’m not sure this is the sane cable I used when the system was last in use.

Regards,

Bert

[notwist]

Hi Martin,

OK that might be the problem. But how do I identify the correct cable? I have a large container with din cables.

Is there a difference between regular and datalunk cables? Do they have more pins?

 

Thanks!

 

Bert

[notwist]

Thanks!

I hope I can find him through the search engine.

Machine still looks good, would be a shame if it wasn’t restored.

Regards,

Bert

 

[notwist]

For the record, what actually happened. I serviced this machine some time ago. All small value capacitors were changed into film. Last week I found that I missed 2 caps hidden below a cable truss. These were 4.7uF (C13) and 2.2uF (C14).

Without thinking I changed C14 to a 2.2uF film cap. And then when I tried the machine the audio would drop off after some time. On a gradual slope. So an odd situation.

With thanks from Glitch it was deduced that the muting circuit was indeed the culprit. It dawned on me after some time that this was exactly where I changed the 2 caps. I know, it is really that stupid and obvious.

The circuit cannot operate with a non polarised cap in this position. Changing that capacitor into a polarised electrolytic made the circuit work again. Audio has been playing for 3 hours now without a hitch.

So lesson learned: always double-check the schematics before changing a polarised into a non-polarised capacitor.

Many thanks again to everyone who chimed in with their thoughts, much appreciated!

Bert

 

[notwist]

Aggressive? Did I say that? I perceive that message as directive and pedantive towards me. I do not know this person nor do I perceive such messages as ‘learning’ but rather as pushing down on me.

Nobody will learn anything without any other explanation than ‘just look in the schema buddy’. I spent the better part of an hour removing two buried lamps, having to resolder wires, for what? I can see their position but the schema tells just a tiny bit of a larger story, a story that isn’t shared.

I honestly appreciate any help from any one person. But this kind of approach is just not in my ballpark.

Apologies from me if that message was not meant like that, of course.

Bert

 

 

 

 

[notwist]

Yes you are basically shouting at me in the manner you write.  I appreciate your help but please try to explain why you need someone to do ‘something’.

I readily will tell when I make mistakes because that is part of the whole gig: we make mistakes. We all want to learn. And your knowledge on this machine is rather larger than mine.

Bert

 

[notwist]

I believe I found the culprit but need to check this further. C14 at 2.2uF was changed into a film capacitor. I replaced this on a hunch to a polarised electrolytic. It appears the audio is back now. But let it play for some time to see if this really works.

Sometimes you need to have a polarised cap in the circuit.

Bert

[notwist]

IC1

B = 14,71
C = 9,28
E = 14,85

Values holding steady,

Bert

[notwist]

No need to be like this please. i misread the SM as L1 does need 30Ma. I fitted 80mA lamps and there is no change. Instead of shouting at me EXPLAIN why the lamps are so important. Nobody will learn anything like this, ok?

I checked all transistors again. I reflowed more joints and the voltages are steady now (more or less) instead of falling / rising. TR7 reads (FM input, stereo signal):

B = 14,85
C = 8,30
E = 7,51

I can check IC1, no problem

Bert

[notwist]

Dillen wrote:

Check those lamps. Correct voltage lamps is not enough. The important thing is the current draw and their “working pattern” with varying voltages. Does the voltage on TR7 base also change? Or is it coming from IC1? Martin

Hmmm. I don’t understand why the lamps are so important. With a load of pain I was able to remove the 2 tuning lamps. They are just regular lamps. I changed them for a different pair (tried everything from 6v – 12v at 30mA) but the issue is the same.

I don’t think the issue is with the lamps or does b&o use some super duper special lamps? Can’t see why, service manual also seems clear in the lamps needed.

Something is triggering the mute circuit and it mutes literally everything. I will pull those transistors from the circuit first now, see whether they still hold up.

Bert

[Author]

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