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Nebojsa Jankovic

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Viewing 9 posts - 21 through 29 (of 29 total)
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  • in reply to: Beogram 7000 with RIAA #66798
    Nebojsa Jankovic
    BRONZE Member

    here is a typical image of a DIN7 plug, the solder-side of it

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    Location: Eindhoven, NL
    Favourite Product: Beogram 4002/04, Beocenter 7007, Beosound 6000/02
    in reply to: Beogram 7000 with RIAA #66796
    Nebojsa Jankovic
    BRONZE Member

    Hello, yes, pinout is vague, because it requires common sense, rather than blind following! Here is a summary:

    – There is no DIN fly lead cable with identically colored wires, as in your BG7000

    – Noone can give you this for your system! I tried to look at the RIAA diagram in the BG7000 service manual, but could not conclusively identify its output channels!

    – you need to identify, by YOURSELF,  the pin-to-pin connections between the output of your RIAA board (as in your photo, see attached) and the back of your DIN7 plug, that would be what is called “solder side” of the DIN7 plug

    – therefore, you need to open your DIN7 plug and see the inside of it, so you know for certain how its pins are connected back to the output of your RIAA

    – online diagrams refer to DIN plug pin numbers 1-7, but it is not always clear looking from which side of the plug, the solder side or the outside of the plug, so tobe absolutely sure, you need to do this yourself!

    – Once you have identified RIAA-to-DIN pin-to-pin connection, you can take any cable with 7 wires and manufacture your new cable!

    kind regards

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    Location: Eindhoven, NL
    Favourite Product: Beogram 4002/04, Beocenter 7007, Beosound 6000/02
    in reply to: Beogram 7000 with RIAA #66760
    Nebojsa Jankovic
    BRONZE Member

    What Guy suggests is a pre-wired DIN7, so you need to make sure you take the correct pins and solder their wires to the right terminals of the RIAA, badically following the exact pin-out of your DIN7 cable! Alternatively, as the original B&O cable cannot be sourced anymore, you just need to get a generic cable with 6 wires, plus shield and a new DIN7 plug and make your own cable by copying the pin-out from your existing cable. (Not to mention that you actually may not need more than 3 wires, plus shield, if you use your Beogram as a stand-alone turntable.) If you are handy with a multimeter, you can also check what is wrong with your cable and fix it!

    Location: Eindhoven, NL
    Favourite Product: Beogram 4002/04, Beocenter 7007, Beosound 6000/02
    in reply to: Beocenter 7007 Tonearm Resets #66746
    Nebojsa Jankovic
    BRONZE Member

    Hello Martin, if I may ask, in order to reach the solder side on the main board of the BC7007, do all of the components, that are now on top of it, need to come out before the board itself would be removed or is there a way to get to its solder side by removing the bottom pannel of the beocenter?

    Thanks in advance for any help!

    Kind regards, Nebojsa

    Location: Eindhoven, NL
    Favourite Product: Beogram 4002/04, Beocenter 7007, Beosound 6000/02
    in reply to: Beocenter 7007 Tonearm Resets #66626
    Nebojsa Jankovic
    BRONZE Member

    Thanks Martin! Will get on with it, as I also accidentally noticed that one of the “Speaker 1” outputs does not work, as I have always used “Speaker 2” channels…

    Nebojsa

    Location: Eindhoven, NL
    Favourite Product: Beogram 4002/04, Beocenter 7007, Beosound 6000/02
    in reply to: Beocenter 7007 Tonearm Resets #66610
    Nebojsa Jankovic
    BRONZE Member

    An update from myself. As I wanted to test another set of speakers on my Beocenter 7007, I used the radio as a sound signal and found out that the system shuts itself down after about 20-25 seconds. Turned back to the turntable and it played the LP (Steely Dan Live) properly for about 25 secs and again system shut itself down! So, this leads me to believe that this symptom has to do with the power supply and/or supply circuit itself. Any ideas, please?

    Location: Eindhoven, NL
    Favourite Product: Beogram 4002/04, Beocenter 7007, Beosound 6000/02
    in reply to: Beogram 4000 (is this worth buying as a project?) #65808
    Nebojsa Jankovic
    BRONZE Member

    Potentially a great deal, if for anything, just the MMC6000 cartridge, if it works, is alone worth more! If it works… On the turntable, you could get VERY lucky, but that is unlikely! So, step by step, $ by $, you could easily end up with another US$2000 in it, so you must decide if you want this wonderfull engineering masterpiece to become yours to keep and charish for another 40 years! You will know what you did to it, you will enjoy making it as well! Alternatively, you could just find a working one for less, say $1000-1500 and enjoy it equally… In a former scenario, just sticking to it and reading and learning from Beolover vlog and write-ups, you can go a long way and really enjoy the process of converting something that does not work into a beautifull working vintage deck!

    Location: Eindhoven, NL
    Favourite Product: Beogram 4002/04, Beocenter 7007, Beosound 6000/02
    in reply to: Beogram 4000 servo belt question #65189
    Nebojsa Jankovic
    BRONZE Member

    Hello Peter, as we see quite various suggestions, here is another one. At DK Sound Parts (dksoundparts.com), you can order exact metal replacement pulley (part#MP-011) and matching belt, with triangular profile (part#BS-024).  See attached images!

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    Location: Eindhoven, NL
    Favourite Product: Beogram 4002/04, Beocenter 7007, Beosound 6000/02
    in reply to: MMC1-5 Comparison #63911
    Nebojsa Jankovic
    BRONZE Member

    Having persevered in asking for details over 3 days with the FJS team, this is what I learnt, so want to share with the forum. Needless to say, with big thanks to FJS and for their courtesy!

    On the Diamond tips:

    The main difference between a Nude Line Contact needle and a Nude Shibata needle is the shape and geometry of the needle tip, which affects sound reproduction and tracking ability.

    1. Nude Line Contact: This needle has an elongated, flat tip that offers a larger contact surface with the record. This allows it to capture more details and nuances of the music, especially in the higher frequencies. The shape allows for more precise tracking of the grooves, resulting in better sound quality.

    2. Nude Shibata: This needle has a special, rounded shape that also offers a large contact surface, but with a different geometry. The Shibata needle is known for its ability to reproduce even fine details in music and is particularly well suited to reproducing complex sound structures. It can cover a wider frequency bandwidth and offers very precise tracking.

    In summary, both styluses offer high sound quality, but with different geometric properties that affect the way they sample and reproduce music. The choice between them often comes down to personal preference and the specific application.

    On the Cantilever/carrier:

    The main difference between a sapphire cantilever and an aluminum cantilever lies in the materials and their properties, which affect sound quality and tracking ability. Here are the main differences:

    1. Material:
    – Sapphire cantilever: Sapphire is a very hard and lightweight material that has a high degree of rigidity. These properties allow for precise tracking of the grooves in the record and contribute to clear and detailed sound reproduction.
    – Aluminum cantilever: Aluminum is also lightweight, but not as hard as sapphire. It offers good rigidity, but can lag slightly behind sapphire in terms of sound reproduction and tracking ability.

    2. Sound quality:
    – Sapphire cantilever: Due to its hardness and rigidity, a sapphire cantilever can often offer better detail reproduction and a clearer sound image. It is particularly well suited to reproducing fine nuances in music.
    – Aluminum cantilevers: While aluminum cantilevers can also offer good sound quality, they may not be as precise in tracking as sapphire cantilevers, especially with complex or dynamic pieces of music.

    3. Durability:
    – Sapphire cantilevers: Sapphire is highly scratch resistant and has a high durability, making it a long-lasting choice.
    – Aluminum cantilevers: Aluminum can be more prone to warping or damage, especially if not handled carefully. In summary, sapphire cantilevers typically offer higher sound quality and durability, while aluminum cantilevers can be a more affordable option that still offers good performance. The choice between the two often comes down to personal preference and budget.

    Generally on diamond:

    Different diamonds enable different reproduction in the range of frequencies to be achieved. The higher the frequency response to be achieved, the higher the reproduction quality in the area of ​​the spatial sound of the treble, bass and mid-range. So, the higher the quality of the diamond needle and the cantilever, the higher the reproduction quality.

    The tracking force that we specify per head is the recommended tracking force with which we achieved the best results.

    Location: Eindhoven, NL
    Favourite Product: Beogram 4002/04, Beocenter 7007, Beosound 6000/02
Viewing 9 posts - 21 through 29 (of 29 total)