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Hereford wrote:

do I understand correctly that you can use the Theatre without any wings? does it look weird with gaps?

The BSTH is designed for a 55in screen (without wings). Wings can be purchased separately (at the stupid price of £800 a set) for 65in and 77in screens. I did consider at one point buying the 77in wing-set to go with a 65in screen and go for the Eclipse look. However, common sense was flicked back in to “high” mode.

I find the gap between screen and BSTH almost not noticeable from the fret width upward. DHA’s picture probably accentuates matters (non-LG screen, bright backlight behind the panel and eye-level at the joint).

You can fiddle endlessly to (limited) adjust the gap, how forward/backward/Tilt and twist you want the panel. The hardest adjustment is to jockey the ends of the panel to match the sides of the BSTH.

Photo below is my Panel set-up at the viewing position.

This Photo shows how the BSTH tries to hide its bulk and how relatively close the Panel goes to the wall. The SMI and out-going cables drive that distance.

 

I’ve gotta say, (I would say that wouldn’t I?), that this product comes across as a pretty decent offering from B&O.  The design is out there, unusual, quirky but it works. The TV is packed with tech and sounds very good. I was even expecting the App to be useless. Yes, there a few things missing but as a software driven product, it works surprisingly well for a B&O product, a few weeks out of the box.

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DHA wrote:

Does anyone have a white noise/hiss from the centre speaker in their theatre? im trying to troubleshoot mine. It’s not source caused as it happens on all sources and with nothing connected. Have performed a reboot and factory reset but no improvement

 

Please give a description of connections of sources and cables. Sounds like there is some dirty noise getting into your system?

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I have the Theatre, BL90, BL3 in my system . It all works (to an extent), set up in the classical way. The only thing that is different is the core? What is that used for and how is it connected and controlled?

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Appears it is CEC controllable to a degree…

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT205225

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The PUC control goes up to Apple TV gen4. I’m not sure if that is the latest model or if there is a later model.

From what I have read on this forum, if a device is HDMI-CEC compliant, it can be natively contolled

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Millemissen wrote:

beojeff wrote:

-The speaker roles are noticeably limited when compared with what’s available on the Beosystem 4. For example, I was going to add more speakers for the Wide roles, but Wide is not an option for external speakers. Also, there is no role for middle hight speakers — only front and back height. The Dolby Atmos setup diagrams provide for the additional “left and right surround 1” roles — a back counterpart to the front “wide” roles. However, those roles are not options.

———

Which are the possible ‘Speaker Roles’ at time being? Can you set up the system (the speaker connections) manually and make a micophone calibration after that?

MM

there are two levels to consider. Speaker Roles and Sound mode. Speaker Roles can be edited in terms of positioning (either at listening height, or those above).

Sound Roles are TV, Music, Movies, Games, Night and Beosonic. As you drill down to each of these roles, you enter Beosonic/advance to change role tones and ambience. The sound roles can be edited and save but only as the list above . You cannot add/delete these default roles

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BeoMedia wrote:

1a) I would have thought that middle ceiling speaker is a must for Atmos, is this not supported by the Theatre?

1b) does the Theatre support 8K as it is today or will it require hardware updates? As far as

2) which provides best ease of use and control and sound and picture quality, to connect external sources to the Theatre or to the television?

3) can the Theatre control an LG CX? I find the user manual unclear as it states “newer than CX”, does that include or exclude the CX?

4a) how many speakers can be wired to the theatre, I see 4 RJ45 powerlink, is it fair to assume 8 speakers?

4b)And can one assign any speaker position combination for these or will they need to be in pairs

5) is the user experience once all is setup easy like BeoVisions normally are so that all members of the family can use the system?

To the best of my current knowledge:-

1a) I would not get too hung-up on the Atmos thing. It is just a trendy Studio Algo to distribute the sound auralally to give a 3D soundstage. The BSTH does a good job but for me, one is not much different than another??

1b) I dont know about 8K. I hear that the EU in its wisdom has effectively banned 8K because of the significantly greater power consumption. I know both my Eclipse and G2 panel is enough to heat my apartments living space to 21degC!!

2) It depends, but you can connect 3 additional HDMI inputs to the Theatre (HDMI 2 is the eARC to the panel). In my instance, I connect HDMI to the BSTH where I need PUC Control. However, I believe that if you use peripheral equipment with the HDMI-CEC standard, I think it makes no difference where it is connected as it a unifying/integrating standard? I think BSTH/LG G2 Panel have 4 HDMI’s each – of which HDMI B/HDMI2 is reserved for eARC comms.

3) I think only the C2 and G2 Panels are supported. With LG, you need to download the B&O LG App to enable remote control via BR1. I dont know if this LG app is compatible with the CX. But you can test this now I think?

4a) the way the Beoapp seems to work is you can add 4 sets of wired speakers and I think 4 pairs of WISA speakers. When I do a quick test to do a new wired speaker config with a BL2 first, I can add only 1 BL90 to the BL2. I cant add a pair. So I imagine you use 1 of 4 connections adding a subwoofer.

4b) When you add a speaker, you add to that speaker 1 extra unit. This can be identical model, a different model (i.e. BL90 – Front Left and BL3 – Front Right) or it can be solo (just a Bl90 Front left)

5. Like all recent Beovision setups, the operating system is involved. Sound modes, Advanced Sound modes,  Listening Positions, Sub Cross-over, distances, steering etc… Also add that you can programme Sound setup to a given source. However, once you have done this, the Beoapp or BR1 makes it very simple to operate. I have added Amazon Music, Prime Video, Netflix, Oppo 103, TV, Radio, Youtube etc….to my system. It all now works with a simple press on the BR1 exactly as I want it. (and more importantly, the Wife gets a device with a simple interaction – on/off/ chan up/down/ vol up/down).

 

 

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Once you have loaded the app via the LG interface or added devices to the HDMI inputs….

Product Settings >> BeoRemote >> select remote. This list appears….

You can show 10 sources in TV and 10 in music. You can handle and slide each source into order. You can also slide to the hide list

 

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Reading beojeffs account of his new BSTH, it seems he is controlling Apple TV and a Sony UHD with the HDMI-CEC protocol without the PUC.  This would mean anything with CEC is controlled anyway and PUC is only required on older non-PUC devices?

The BR1 does not do anything apart from transmitting and receiving comms from the BSTH or other BT controlled B&O products. Listings and settings from the BSTH are loaded from the app, transmitted via the BSTH to the BR1. Therefore, I think there is a good chance you can free a couple of devices from PUC control??

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Lotta stuff I can’t help with here. However, on the Netflix, or any entertainment app, once loaded from LG, they will appear on the configuration setting for the BSTH and for the remote.

I have lodged feedback with B&O. The sound modes can’t be edited.

Im also looking at installing Apple TV but was under the impression it could be done via the LG app alone and not require a separate box? Can you confirm this or is that just TV control and a box is still needed?

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MM,

in the official photos, the justice is not really done. At first, I did not like the BSTH and looks somewhat ugly with the boat hull profile. However, I was keen to get away from spending what is essentially £2k a year overhead on Beovisions with built-in obsolescence. Mk1 Eclipse is case in point. The Theatre could well reduce that overhead  to £400/yr over a 5year expectation.

With my little white IKEA plinth, looking front-on, the boat hull sort of smooths away and looks very thin. In fact, the LG G2 and BSTH is now closer to the wall than the Eclipse on motorised stand and in a way, looks more demur than the Eclipse and in a way, a more discrete and balanced TV design execution.

One thing I think could be changed for the better is an aluminium cover for the table stand. As it is now, the black segment of the table stand that is proud of the unit reflects upward on to the boat hull. The black anthracite model would mitigate that.

Finally, the Oak fret design is not for me, preferring the fabric option.

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Panasonic Generic Blu-ray is on the BR1 mapping for Theatre.

No other specific Pana entries. Guess you need to find if Pana have changed codes for the 4K equipment?

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Yes, overall it is very comfortable and I’m happy with the solution. It actually looks better live than the photo.

The box is slim-line at 26cm x 26cm x 110cm. This is just to fit the table stand. Some furniture solutions tend to be 40mm deep as a minimum and therefore take up more foot print.

The TV and VESA back (SMI) are right up against the wall. The table stand can be flipped between a wide and narrow foot – I guess this is to accommodate larger screens or those with electronic packs at the base and thus ensures good centre of gravity??

Two things put me off the motorised stand – 1st was obviously the price which I think is stupid, 2nd was the real estate and the positioning of the screen in the room which would be very forward.

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I briefly looked at keeping my Eclipse Stand, fabricating a 10mm thick Aluminium Plate and hex-bolting the Theatre to the stand (excluding the Eclipse “Y” bracket). In the end, I just sold it on.

The STB variant looks interesting and that 7-40 stands look cheap on eBay. However, I think I will look to see if a 7-55 stand comes on the market. The 77in Theatre on the table stand on the floor looks really cool – very BV5/9/10/11 etc and hides all the cable. The low-slung look suits the Theatre/G2 look

In the end, I went super-cheap and made a plinth out of glued Ikea Lack hanging shelving, cut the innards out of one of them (honeycomb paper) to hide excess cable. Add a bit of filler, sandpaper and some emulsion paint for £60!

 

 

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I don’t know your location, nor the agreed deal with you and your Dealer?

I know that B&O have delivered large items (BL90) direct to my home and the shipper is a shipper only. They drop the parcel off at door step only, with the rest of the problem being yours. I know they that B&O dealers can do it all, but this carries installation expenses.

Sometimes, it has been my preference to save a few ££, sometimes to savour the experience and do the install yourself.

In my last experience, I had the opposite, I wanted to install myself but the Dealer insisted. (They are 1.5hrs away from my home). With some of the fiddling about they did, dialling in alignment of the soundbar and panel (which is not as easy as the videos look), it took them 5hrs. I think in essence, I was the training mule for them to learn as I was the first BSTH that Dealer had done.

Back to your case, if a package arrived at unsociable hours like you indicate, I’d simply tell the driver to jog-on and refuse the delivery. Make that your Dealers/B&Os problem.

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It is difficult to ascertain your requirements, tastes, budget and location.

In the UK, the cheapest Contour package I can see for 55in, is around £7k for a table top version and melange cover. A commensurate BS Theatre would be around £8.5 (difficult because of subtracting the 65in difference).

So, for £1.5 to £2k, you can breakaway from screen quality dependence on your whole product. You als get a superior product I would think and one which is upgradable in terms of ecosystem etc…

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Themanthemyth wrote:

How well does it do Atmos by itself?

Im not sure I can really answer that on multiple levels:-

I’ve just stored the microphone away deep into the loft. However, listening to the Dealer demo, it is a very credible and capable soundbar in its own right. I have no reference to compare its 3D sound capabilities – only its tonal capability.

I have done two positional calibrations with RoomSense:- a) BSTH/BL90/BL3 and b) BL90 only (this is my workaround for a potential hole in the BeoApp for BL90 Narrow/Wide/Omni selection).

I have not done a calibration with the BSTH on its own (I assume you have to do this to answer your question?) and assume just muting the accompanying Surrounds is not the same as calibrating a BSTH on its own? i.e. I dont know if the BSTH can do that on the fly?

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Vinnie wrote:

From your answer Mr10Percent, I understand that using optical (digital output) to the BL5’s, I will get better quality than using good quality PowerLink cables?

My experience of pumping Beosound 5 output to the BL5’s is that Coax to BL5 will give a superior sound over Powerlink alone. I would state with this setup ,the music output stayed in the digital domain right up to the BL5 DAC stage.

Looking at your setup, I would look at the capabilities of iphone and airplay in terms of digital output. A lot of phones downgrade their outputs depending on the codec being used.

If you were pumping sound from a purpose-built music server via the LAN, Im sure this would be as good as you can get from this equipment. However, I am uncertain what the Core does in terms of the “Line-in (analogue & digital combo)” and airplay or what Airplay and your phone is doing?  From your last post, it sounds like the BL5s are playing unfiltered noise with the music signal  from the 96 to 192kHz band. By selecting 48kHz, you are filtering the signal above 96kHz (aka 0.5 Nyquist).

Now, thinking on my feet,  if you have a home network and a PC (better still, a NAS), I think you can make the PC (network search on) into a Music server and in the Beoapp select it as DNLA.

It will then collect all the relevant music files (Core does not support WMA if you are still there??). This should allow you to play files up to 96kHz to the Core and you can decide if the Core DAC is OK with Powerlink alone or if you should keep it in the digital domain a little longer to export it via Toslink/coax direct to the BL5.

This should give you a good indication if it is the Phone codecs, the core DAC or the BL5 internal fault.

Im sure there are plenty of people on this site who can review what i have said and see if the logic is good?

Rgds

 

 

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The way I used to do it (not had a BS5 in my system for 4-5 years now) was to make the BM5 part of your PC Home Network. I think this is similar to Millelissens method above.

Once done, I did extensive cleaning on Windows Media Player. I had a number of duplicate track names – particularly on compilation albums and EPs etc…

The format I standardised on was based around naming all my music under an extended Album name:-

Music >>> “Artist” Folder >>> “Artist – Album 1″…”Artist – Album 2” >>> then Track level.

I then went through an agonising eternity to ensure each and all tracks in my entire portfolio were correctly “aligned” in terms of Tag Naming and Album Art. This, when completed made the BS5 a very slick and fast way of accessing Albums, whether by Art, Artist, Album etc…..

Hope that Helps

 

 

 

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Millemissen wrote:

Oh sorry – you’re right! My mistake MM

Had me sweating for a few moments. Thought I’d just walked into a bear trap without thinking.

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