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Apologies for the last comments Are you referring to this loom pictured, is so yes it is soldered to the PCB but un-plugs from deck

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Have a closer look, pretty sure all looms will unplug, there is one tricky loom plugged in under an RF shield which can be either unsoldered or pried up at one end, then un-plug the loom, Be careful not to bend the shield out of shape too much ( it stops the sliding door opening if it’s not put back in original position)

good luck, I’m going to do some work on a 9500 soon which should be very similar I can take some photos if it helps.

Regards Brad

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Cheers David

Way down New Zealand Thames, electrician and all things tech, security etc. by day and this as. a. hobby.

bradadamselec@gmail.com

 

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Just an addition in case anyone else is crying over broken Amber covers, as they are so brittle, they do glue nicely (well enough) back together with the “bondic UV” still working on the holding pegs wont be as easy to hide like the smoked covers.

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Thanks, David for your enthusiasm. it is nice to know someone is far more interested them than my wife, hahaha. So as you will notice definitely not a perfect match, from the other signs of damage also I assume one of the displays has been fully replaced, with completely different components and display lens. Ohh and if you’re wondering I didn’t have any Axial Caps 2200uf so had to improvise, for now, the existing ones were well out 2605uf and 1815uf, I might look at a mkII display upgrade in the future, also I’m not sure whether to pair them with the 9500 or my new acquisition  Beovision Avant 32RF  (i need to claim another room in the house first) regards Brad

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Update Penta 1 display (that I have aren’t covered by the SK-003 recapp kit??from beoparts, needed are 2 of each 16v 2200uf

16v 10uf

10v 47uf

 

 

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1. Thanks again David you gave me the courage to pull a bit harder ? the Penta 1 doesn’t have the screws the first display cover is the same the next screen cover also unclips with 3 small pegs “brittle” then the digit board hinges up slightly and unplugs downward and then the other boards slide and unplug the same or I suppose the whole thing should just pull out as one, but you would be relying on the three brittle clips ?

thanks again regards Brad

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yeah that is a possibility I do have some Penta 1s apart  and (two cats?) but was pretty random as there’s a slight indented in the chassis for the tape pulley that in fits perfectly into, put obviously can’t go there.

thanks heaps as I always say, if you can put back together with less parts, you’re better than the design engineer ?

I’ll have look at some manuals,  it does fit here but serving no purpose that I can see. Thanks Guy

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yeah that is a possibility I do have some Penta 1s apart  and (two cats?) but was pretty random as there’s a slight indented in the chassis for the tape pulley that in fits perfectly into, put obviously can’t go there.

thanks heaps as I always say, if you can put back together with less parts, you’re better than the design engineer ?

I’ll have look at some manuals,  it does fit here but serving no purpose that I can see.

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beopart SKU:SK-003 ?

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“Beolab Penta Amplifier capacitor and service kit” from Beoparts included the extra caps for the displays.

This long, but thorough video is a must

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psY_RV1NjHM&t=447s&ab_channel=TheRetroBristolian

from New Zealand is pretty expensive to get speaker parts and electronics from UK or USA so I sourced rubbers from Aliexpress, but if I did them again id probably use genuine as they have the inner angle set right.

My Hack was as pictured- use a plastic lid from a jar of screws as a bath, fill it with acetone, methanol or alike. It holds the speaker clear of the fluid except for the rim, Also if you know of anyone that has a distillery ask them for the Foreshot it’s usually thrown away and works a treat.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UmQPCqi4ozAhYSB9A

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