[lenhi]

Thanks!

…and just like that, the syst3m works, though I have done this before, without this result. I think it might have to do with the sequence the plugs are inserted. The Beolab 3500 upstairs is still being obstinate, though; it answers “Radio”, and reacts to volume change on the screen, but makes no sound.

[lenhi]

Thanks a lot! I really appreciate your talking me through this. I have now loosened three tiny solder points holding the shield, but the one under the board, on the right hand side, right next to the two capacitors that stand out from under the shield, has proven hard to unsolder. Is it OK to use metal tweezers to pull at the shield, or must I get some other material? Weller has a lot of miniature tools…

Q#2: Is this https://www.electrokit.com/produkt/el-lyt-smd-22uf-16v-105c-o4x5-4mm/ the correct SMD to be getting?

Q#3: When you say the SMDs measure correctly (or not), what do you measure them with? I haven’t had a voltmeter for a while, so if you can advise me, I’d be very grateful.

Venlig hilsen

Lennart

[lenhi]

I am having trouble loosening the shield; I unsodered on three points, but the fourth is really hard to get at, and I do not want to destroy anything, obviously. Is there any trick to it?

Lennart

[lenhi]

OK, so now I have a Weller soldering station and have taken the Beolink 7000 apart again. As far as I can see, there is one little drop of solder holding the metal shield together. So the plan is to melt this, pry loose the shield, and insert a couple of condensers. The excellent work description that Filip posted states that four condensers should be changed. But maybe I should just do those two. Can I get confirmation that I am on the right track? Thank you!

[lenhi]

After removing the four screws at the back, lifting the glass, and finding the SMDs, I couldn’t figure out how to remove the metal shield where the SMAs stick up. Advice as to where and how much pressure should be applied, would be much appreciated. I reassembled the link, since I couldn’t find any description of this part of the procedure anywhere. Going out now, to try and find the perfect soldering pencil

[lenhi]

The battery pack needs to be changed, too, but that should be within my competence, I think

[lenhi]

Thank you for your respons, filip, and no, I have no idea what I am should be doing. Is there some soldering involved? Would you happen to have a blueprint of the Beolink? And yes, it is a BeoMASTER, sandsynligvis!

Regards

[lenhi]

Not very encouraging, this: Beolink 7000 working/not working – (beoworld.org)https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/15030.aspx

, while this, on the other hand, just looks challenging; Beolink 7000 “No Contact” issue – (beoworld.org)

https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/28382.aspx

[lenhi]

Beocenter 2000 Cartridge Recommendation

I know that the mmc20s goes with the tone arm in Beocenter 2000, but are there any other, possibly better, fits?

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