[lenhi]

I took your advice and started over. I have now disconnected the power link from the converter. The AUX on that is connected to the BM. The other powerlink from the BM runs to one Penta, which is then connected to the other Penta. That works. To get sound from the BV in the Pentas, I connected it to the the first Penta, and that worked too! Does this sound all right to you?

I even have sound in the 3500, and can turn that off and on and change the volume. But I can’t turn the system on from any of the three linkrooms. The light control has not worked for a long time, but I guess those wear out.

Sometimes (!) I can turn the sound off once or twice on the two linkrooms downstairs, and change the volume on the passive speakers in the kitchen. For some reason that I do not understand, this works sometimes, but not always.

Well, that is the situation today. Let’s see what tomorrow brings!

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

I solved it like this:

Sound from the rooms downstairs (Penta, 4500, CX); all on or off, can only be controlled from the main rom, i.e. the Beomaster ‘s line of sight. The Pentas stay green after the Beomaster is turned off. The BV7 has sound. The 3500 stays silent; when I press RADIO – or anything else  – on the remote, its display says TV, then RADIO (or whatever I have tried to activate), but makes no sound. Struer has promised to look into their spare part supplies.

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

So now I have sound in the main room, in the two other rooms downstairs, but not in the 3500 upstairs. All those three react visually to the remotes,  but do not mute, change volume, or start or turn off the system. Furthermore, the displays on the 4500 in the bedroom do not disclose anything; they just stay dark.

I am beginning to suspect theat there is something wrong with the Masterlink; according to your drawing, the powerlink is not used at all here, so I pulled that out when I needed the second plug in the Penta to connect to the other Penta. Since then, no sound at all from the BV7. And I have nowhere to connect it.

So, problems that persist: No maneuveabilityu from the link rooms;

The TV silence:

No sound from the 3500

För övrigt önskar jag dig en riktigt god helg!

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

With a cable to the other Penta, and that one connected to the other one, they suddenly work. Now I am going back to your scetch to see if I can get the sound back in the BV7

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

I agree about the OPTION thing. But I just tried that sequence you suggested, and have now full functionality of the 3500. Thanking you warmly for that, Mads! Also plugged headphones in, and they worked. So, the problem must – as you say – pertain to the components, which leaves me with the option to get rid of the Beomaster, since a repair here i de tabte områder would be impossibly expensive. I should confess that I have not tested the cables yet…

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

Could it have something to do with the OPTIONS>A-OPT in Beo4?

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

The thing is, the Pentas go blop when i turn the system on and off, so they apparently get some sort of signal from the system.

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

Correction: When I press RADIO on the 3500, it says RADIO, then TV, and then goes back to clock. This is a new feature.

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

BTW: how does the Powerlink know which speaker is which in the main room?

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

When I went upstairs just now, the 3500 was playing. I used the Beo 1000 to turn it off, then tried to turn it on again. Nothing. Pessed MUTE: the display says MUTED. Pressed the red off-button: display says TV. Now I need a smoke.

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

I disconnected both DINs from the converter, then tried with only the Powerlink, and then with only the AAL. Then, I pulled out the MCL. The result is the same: When I click Radio, the sound comes on in the kitchen and in the bedroom. No respons from the 3500, except the display briefly says Radio, then goes back to clock. Twice I could mute the kitchen and bedroom, but now, they just respon with a wink and continue playing.

Should I get a speaker cable instead of the DIN to connect the pentas to each other?

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

The 3500 is obviously in contact with the black box that is connected to the AUX on the Beomaster 7000. It says Power Link and Audio Aux link on the two din connections, respectively. I noticed this when I corrected the time on the television screen, wghich is apparently not on the same clock as the Beomaster.

This was after I switched the DIN from Power Link to Audio Aux link, and I can now get sound on the 3500 upstairs, switching it on and off with the B1000, but I cannot start the system from there, neither shut it down.

The CX in the kitchen start on radio, phono, CD, tape, and computer (via tape 2), and so do the active speakers in the bedroom, but the Pentas in the main don’t. They light up, but stay silent, until I unplug the MCL Then the Pentas play radio and phono, but the CD and computer make no sound at all, and neither does the tape.

Earlier today I tried to transfer old tape recordings to Adobe audition, but the sound does not seem to feed into the computer, like it has done before.

Maybe I should mention that the CD is a non.B&O.

So grateful for your taking an interest in my problems! I have tried shutting the system down, unplugging everything, and plugging things in in different order. Some years ago, mice had gnawed the wires in the attic, and I had a technician from B&O over to solder that and check the system. They don’t come cheap, I can tell you that. So I really appreciate your input here!

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

Thanks!

…and just like that, the syst3m works, though I have done this before, without this result. I think it might have to do with the sequence the plugs are inserted. The Beolab 3500 upstairs is still being obstinate, though; it answers “Radio”, and reacts to volume change on the screen, but makes no sound.

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

Thanks a lot! I really appreciate your talking me through this. I have now loosened three tiny solder points holding the shield, but the one under the board, on the right hand side, right next to the two capacitors that stand out from under the shield, has proven hard to unsolder. Is it OK to use metal tweezers to pull at the shield, or must I get some other material? Weller has a lot of miniature tools…

Q#2: Is this https://www.electrokit.com/produkt/el-lyt-smd-22uf-16v-105c-o4x5-4mm/ the correct SMD to be getting?

Q#3: When you say the SMDs measure correctly (or not), what do you measure them with? I haven’t had a voltmeter for a while, so if you can advise me, I’d be very grateful.

Venlig hilsen

Lennart

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

I am having trouble loosening the shield; I unsodered on three points, but the fourth is really hard to get at, and I do not want to destroy anything, obviously. Is there any trick to it?

Lennart

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

OK, so now I have a Weller soldering station and have taken the Beolink 7000 apart again. As far as I can see, there is one little drop of solder holding the metal shield together. So the plan is to melt this, pry loose the shield, and insert a couple of condensers. The excellent work description that Filip posted states that four condensers should be changed. But maybe I should just do those two. Can I get confirmation that I am on the right track? Thank you!

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

After removing the four screws at the back, lifting the glass, and finding the SMDs, I couldn’t figure out how to remove the metal shield where the SMAs stick up. Advice as to where and how much pressure should be applied, would be much appreciated. I reassembled the link, since I couldn’t find any description of this part of the procedure anywhere. Going out now, to try and find the perfect soldering pencil

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

The battery pack needs to be changed, too, but that should be within my competence, I think

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

Thank you for your respons, filip, and no, I have no idea what I am should be doing. Is there some soldering involved? Would you happen to have a blueprint of the Beolink? And yes, it is a BeoMASTER, sandsynligvis!

Regards

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

Not very encouraging, this: Beolink 7000 working/not working – (beoworld.org)https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/15030.aspx

, while this, on the other hand, just looks challenging; Beolink 7000 “No Contact” issue – (beoworld.org)

https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/28382.aspx

Location: Scania, Sweden

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