[ICHooligan]

Thank you, I may need a better bluetooth receiver as the one I have is all the way up. I appreciate  your help.

[ICHooligan]

Ok, so I do have an additional question or two. Same set-up here, MCL2AV in garage, running wires up to XTRA speakers and an IR Eye that is run off the B&O 1000 remote control. I noticed that the sound is a lot lower running off the TV with a bluetooth receiver and the sound only goees up to 78 when controlling the IR eye with the remote and honestly, 78 is not that loud, however, if I was running the main system radio onto these speakers, 78 would probably break the windows. Does anyone have any suggestions or comments as to why it would be lower using it this way or why the speakers will only go up to 78 when controlled with the remote and the bluetooth receiver that is attached in the garage to the MCL2AV through the TV port with a 7 DIN connector that has 35mm jack on the opposite end going into the bluetooth receiver?

[ICHooligan]

Great, thank you! I can easily remove the IR Eye, plate and pull the wires out no problem. I appreciate you letting me know, as I don’t want to be worried about it being an issue. At some point in the near future, I will open that up and at least throw some wire nuts on there.

Thanks buddy!

[ICHooligan]

Yes, thank you, I am extremely happy as I did not want to have to remove those speakers from the wall as there are most likely holes where it was wired in the late 80s or 90s and they still look too nice not to use.  I agree with you, this system is almost 40 years old and holds up nicely and still looks like something that I just bought today.

I do have one other question. When I reinstalled the new IR eye a month back, they are spliced as I was not able to re-run wire directly through the wall to the MCL2AV in the garage from the IR eye in the bedroom. I used electrical tape to secure the splices in all the wires in the wall behind the IR eye. Is this a problem or fire hazard? Assuming from all our back and forth, there should be 5V going through the green and brown wires, so I wanted to make sure that the way I secured the splices with electrical tape is ok. Otherwise, I will have to go back in the wall and use a heat gun and soldering connections if need be.

[ICHooligan]

I personally wanted to thank all of you that helped walk me through this situation. I purchased and installed a new MCL2AV 2020 version from 1987 from Quality Dream Audio and I am back up and running, so that was definitely the issue. I made sure the system was unplugged, I attached all the appropriate wiring to the new one, well refurbished, powered everything back on and I am again able to use the XTRA speakers, the remote with the eye and all is well.

Again, thank you all!

[ICHooligan]

Great, thank you!

[ICHooligan]

Oh one other question. I noticed when going in to order the MCL2AV, it has an option for Type Number: 2020, 2027, 2031 or 2026. I’m not sure which one to get, any idea on that? It looks like the one I pictured above with the extra antenna port you mentioned. Also, I will make sure the entire system is powered down when I re-attach after I receive it. Thank you again for your help.

[ICHooligan]

Thank you Madskp – Is there anything else I should consider? Do you feel that the MCL2AV is the issue and that replacing it should resolve? I’ll just disconnect the wiring from my existing MCL2AV and connect to the new one once I purchase and receive it. Then just keep my fingers crossed.

[ICHooligan]

I noticed that Quality Dream Audio is out of stock on the one I have, but they have this one that I’ve attached. Would this work with my system? The only difference I see is the extra port for TV on it whereas the one I have only has the 3 ports, one being marked TV, which is the one that I use to relay from the bluetooth adapter to run my TV in the room above. Please let me know. I appreciate all your help with this, very frustrating.

 

[ICHooligan]

Ok, thank you again for your reply. I have removed the IR eye wires from the terminals and tested where the brown and green terminals and it barely reaches 2V. I also tried reattaching the old IR eye as suggested and same result. I have a feeling something might have tripped when I replaced the new IR eye with the old one as it came on, then after powering it off, it wouldn’t come back on. Something must have triggered in the MCL2AV box or something?

Would you or anyone know where I could get a replacement?

Thank you!

[ICHooligan]

Correct Madskp, MCL2AV box in garage, with the wires running up through the wall to the IR eye in the bedroom where the two square XTRA speakers are wired and mounted on the wall behind the bed. I took the reading of the outlet, which was 120V, a reading of the wires (green and brown) at the IR eye where they are soldered to the eye (2V), at the splice, (2V) and at the screw terminals in the MCL2AV box (2V). That’s basically where I am now, only 2V are being transmitted when I have it plugged in. Keeping in mind, I never tested previous to it not working, but when it worked, I assumed the voltage was accurately sending at least 5V to everything. Also, I’m not sure how the wiring is done for this system, but the red lights are on the speakers as we speak, even though the MCL2AV box is not plugged in currently. Assuming they are wired to the main system in the living room and the MCL2AV box is just an addition to let you run them with the IR eye and remote for additional sound in another room. The IR eye, when the MCL2AV box is plugged in, does not come on, as the red light does not even light up.

Again, I really appreciate this, as I mentioned before, there is no-one around here where I live that services B&O or would have any idea about it. I really wouldn’t care to bother with it, if they weren’t mounted to the wall, but since they are there, it was nice for a couple months to use those speakers with a bluetooth adapter and run sound through my bedroom Samsung TV. I really hope we can troubleshoot this and get it back up and running.

Maybe there’s something at the main system in the living room that I can reset or test to make sure there is accurate power going to the MCL2A box in the garage? I don’t know, as I’m not tech. savvy when it comes to this system at all, so anything you can suggest, I’m willing to try. If I need a new MCL2A box, that’s fine too, if that’s the issue or another IR eye, I would just need to know where I could get those items? This system is from the mid to late 80s, but it sounds and looks awesome, so I’d really love to keep it going.

Thank you!

[ICHooligan]

Thank you both for your explanations. I’m not real savvy in the wiring department. As stated previously, this system was wired into the house probably in the 80s when they did some additions. I purchased the house in 2023 and this system was left as it’s all wired within. There is the Beomaster 4500 with CD changer on the wall in the upstairs living room, with two towered speakers connected. That works fine no problem. Then there is one MCL2AV box in the garage that I assume is wired from the main system in the living room and then runs up the wall to the bedroom above where there are two square box speakers mounted to the wall behind the bed and the MCL2A sensor box also mounted on the wall under the speakers on the one side of the bed. All I did was disconnect the old sensor box and attach a new one, which worked initially when I connected it to the existing wires coming up from the garage from the MCL2AV, but then discontinued working after I powered it on, increased the volume, then powered it off. I’m not sure if could have shorted out the MCL2AV or what could have happened? I did all this with the MCL2AV unplugged. Once I connected the wires from the new or refurbished MCL2A, I went into the garage and plugged the MCL2AV back into the wall and it came on no problem. I came back up to the bedroom, powered the Xtra speakers on with the remote against the MCL2A sensor and was good to go, but once I powered it on and changed the volume, then powered it off, it hasn’t come back on since. I tested the wires in the MCL2AV and MCL2A sensor box with a multimeter and it read 2V. So something is lacking power, I’m just not sure what it could be. I’m no electrician or speaker system set-up guy to this magnitude, so I’d have no clue what to do in this situation. I’d try to replace the MCL2AV, but I have no idea where to get one. I tried Quality Dream Audio, which is where I got the refurbished MCL2A sensor box, but they do not have any in stock and not sure what I could get to replace it to ensure the whole system worked again.

[ICHooligan]

Thank you Guy and thank you for your reply. I actually have it disconnected currently and when I took the pictures, I had it unplugged. Attached is the DC supply that was plugged in when it was working and I assume it came with the product back in the 80s. Is this not enough and if not, could you point me to where I could purchase a new DC supply to replace it? I’d question why suddenly it’s not enough to power the unit, as nothing was changed with the system, besides re-connecting the new MCL 2A to it. This powered it all before and now it won’t. Thanks again for your assistance. Please keep in mind too that I’m in the US and would need a DC supply for US outlets. Hate to look on Amazon and grab one that’s 15V and blow it out. I appreciate your time, thank you!

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