[Dillen]

You can calculate the voltage drop across the emitter resistor and use that as the target setting.
Ohms law.

Martin

[Dillen]

As mentioned above, parts are usually no problem.
What is needed here is a good repairshop or a skilled DIY/hobby-repairer.
There must be some in northern Italy.

Martin

[Dillen]

No. The start-up sequence is all mechanical.

Martin

[Dillen]

Yes, you can set the tracking force as shown in the user manual.
But check your stylus first. It could be dirty. That’s one of the most common causes for distortion together with bad cantilever suspension.

Martin

[Dillen]

Sounds like a problem with the tracking system.
It’s a opto sensor and a lamp, with an interrupter in between.
Either the lamp has died or the sensor has gone bad (they can deteriorate internally).
Some times both.
(Electronic faults in this circuit are rare).

The Molykote you mentioned is a fast-hardening coating.
That’s not what you want here. You need a long-term (decades rather than weeks),
grease to make the carriage move smoothly and jerk-free.

Lamp, sensor, correct grease is all available from Danish Sound Parts.

Martin

[Dillen]

Danish Sound Parts har originale her.

Glem de kinesiske forfalskninger på Ebay og allevegne.

Martin

[Dillen]

Any DC voltage on the motor tabs?

Martin

[Dillen]

1. Record ends can be troublesome.
   Whereas there are clear standards for where the lead-in grooves are located (with reference to record center), there are no standards for lead-out.
   Is the problem present with all records?
2. In standby place a tracking force scale under the tonearm. Press and hold >> for a few seconds and the tonearm will lower onto it. When done, press STOP.
3. Depends on what stuff is on the arms.

Martin

[Dillen]

Beocenter 5000 has a quite powerful and well-sounding amplifier.
Any passive speakers will suit it – the larger the better results.
It will drive even very large Beovox models, so you can let your room and wallet decide.
I would say anything from Beovox S45 up.

Martin

[Dillen]

Solder joints crack from microscopic vibrations, typically eminating from the mains transformer and from the general
operation of the deck.

I’m sure it can be repaired.
Any french repairers here?

Martin

[Dillen]

What is the problem with the two original woofers?

Martin

[Dillen]

The local B&O shop may not be able to repair it. That’s probably true.
But there are countless others who can.
Parts are usually no problem. Most problems are caused by aging capacitors and bad solder joints. All perfectly fixable.

Where are you?

Martin

[Dillen]

TR4 or TR5 shorted.
Replace both (BC337).

Martin

[Dillen]

Nice work.
And next the grey ones in the amplifier stages.
And – remember – no low-ESR capacitors in these circuits!

Martin

[Dillen]

Have you checked the backup battery?

Martin

[Dillen]

Glitch wrote:

Matching the veneer across the top of both pieces was a nice touch.

Well spotted. 🙂

Martin

[Dillen]

Have you checked if the lower glass panel has come lose?
If the glass comes away from its plastic holders, the conductive rubber bumpers will no longer
have contact.
It can also happen, if the glass was fastened using very thick tape.

Martin

[Dillen]

-Ripple on supply to the processor.
-Bad reset circuit.
-Bad processor.
In that order.

Martin

[Dillen]

Losen the three transport screws. They are found under the platter.
With the transport screws tightened for transport the belt will almost always come off when the motor is started.
The same goes for Beogram 1203, Beogram 2000, Beogram 3000.

Martin

[Dillen]

The wooden trim strips are to narrow to really make Zebrano look any good on a BG8000, I think.
I did a Beosystem 1700 in Zebrano many years ago.
To this day I am not sure if I really like it – or even if I actually liked it back then. But the original veneer was too far gone,
so something had to be done, and I was keen on trying.

Martin

[Author]

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