[dahiyas]

Thanks Craig. Appreciate the inputs and the offer to check on measurements.

The schematic was right at the bottom of the manual, seems to a later version with some modifications. eg. The motor control board has a lamp. This is the one I have. The previous version did not have the lamp. Maybe a indicator when remote commander is used ?

 

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[dahiyas]

The 5v line on was going down to 3.2V. Checked the components in path of UP circuit. The culprit was 12IC6 (SPS5431). The alternatives listed are MPSA65 and BC516. I don’t have any of those handy. Will check with local shops tomorrow. Hopefully that will fix the problem.

Next – FM issue now. Any suggestions ?

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[dahiyas]

Thanks Craig..I did check all the wires again. And all the wires seem to be ok but I will go through them again.

Also, FM is still an issue. On pressing FM/P1-5 buttons,  the indicator lamp comes on but goes off when you release the button. The other sources work fine.

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[dahiyas]

some progress.

I spent an hour checking all cables were reconnected in the right place and were not loose. I am not sure what I did but the source selection/standby buttons now respond. I also learnt (from youtube) that the volume/tone/balance lamps stay on even in standby. So looks like issue 1 is fixed.

Problem 2 persists but I figured that pressing any of the DOWN buttons does start the motor but the clutches don’t engage. Pressing any of the UP buttons doesn’t do anything.

 

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[dahiyas]

Thanks Peter. Yesss, the 6000 !! I have the Beocord 5000 also and completed the restore of that too. The mechanism was pretty painful to say the least. And the sound was not at all impressive. Maybe it needs some calibration but I don’t have the tools for it.

But the 6000 was bought for its looks. College kid had it up on craigslist for $600 (for parts) and my $150 offer was rejected promptly. But about 6 months later he sent me a message saying I could have it for $150. I dismantled the whole thing, all wires desoldered etc. Recapping done, gears lubricated. Now the big challenge is putting it all back together and setting trimmers etc before everything goes in the chassis. Maybe a project for the next long weekend.

 

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[dahiyas]

I switched on the system with just one output pcb connected as step 1 and once confirmed all was good I connected the second pcb. And everything works. This was my fourth BM8000 restoration. I remember my first one had taken nearly 2-3 months with all kinds of issues (stuck in standby, microprocessor pcb via’s, prescaler issues etc). The fourth one just took 5-6 hours.

A big thank you to Martin and John (Sonovar) and others on the forum who have documented their issues/fixes.

Next up – Beomaster 5000 quad (my first one). Project started last summer. Dismantled the whole thing, recapped, bulbs changed. Now I need to put it all back somehow….

BM8000 and BM5000 are on the opposite ends for serviceability !!

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[dahiyas]

Thanks Martin. Unfortunately I don’t have a Variac 😐.  On my list to get at some point. I do have a voltage protector device that allows me to set Voltage and Current limits. Can I use that instead ?

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[dahiyas]

I have no idea what I did but magically now fwd/rew both are working.

Only issue – when I hit forward the mechanism works as expected BUT when the tape reaches the end, the head turns and tape plays and unit goes to STANDBY with the head still engaged. I have to hit STOP again to bring unit out of STANDBY and head to disengage.

I am not sure if the head should engage for the normal (“>>” or “<<“) function. I can understand that head would engage in the search (play+fwd/rew) mode.

REW works now, its noisy but works.

 

 

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[dahiyas]

Hi, Martin, I checked again and the worm gear is glued well. See below links to videos that show the gear movement for play/ff/rew.

Gear View – https://youtu.be/DJ_V7VKfaK8?si=fL14zEgwzf-o75to

Front View – https://youtube.com/shorts/uuPI38TfzDY?si=_aW7yPOliHILJwIO

Let me know if you see anything out of sequence.

Thanks

 

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[dahiyas]

Thanks Martin, I did do exactly what you suggested. But am going to check, just in case something is missing.

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[dahiyas]

Hi Sverre..Thank you for your response. I did check your earlier post on the subject and tried the approach but it didn’t work. Manually tuning the gear does move the other parts. The unit plays well, sounds good but its irritating that FF/REW does not work. Not sure why PLAY gets engaged when pressing FF/REW.

Thanks

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[dahiyas]

Thanks Glitch. PM sent.

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[dahiyas]

Sure Glitch.

Yes, with the bad standby transformer , the status LED did turn green was signal was detected.

I did check with my local contact and he didn’t have the part. He does have a couple of 220v version (not sure why he has those in the US) but said that it would require the main power supply also to be converted to 220v and then use a step-down transformer….too much of a pain so I will wait for something to show up on ebay. I managed to reuse the amp pcb’s on two other BL4000’s that have developed foam rot related issues (static/hum).

Will surely update if I find an alternate solution. Thanks again !!

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[dahiyas]

Thanks Glitch. I pulled out the standby transformer and yes looks like the primary coils are shorted :-(. I am getting continuity between the two primaries.

What could have caused both (speakers) of them to go bad at the same time ?

Any suggestions on replacement ?

 

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