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The cables you mention; are they coming out of the wall? So you have two RCA and two din coming out of the wall?
The Beosound 9000 has four ways to connect to a non-B&O system or speakers.
-Headphone, which you have discovered.
-Digital Coax OUT – The single RCA jack on the 9000. Variable output.
-AUX OUT – This is using the DIN AUX connector. You will need the correct DIN to RCA adapter. Fixed Output.
-Powerlink OUT – There are two of these, they both function the same. You will need the correct DIN to RCA adapter. Variable output.
If you are connecting it to a device like a receiver or preamp with it’s own volume control, I highly recommend using the AUX OUT method so they your receiver is the one controlling the volume.
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Which transmitter are you using? Are all three speakers using it? Are some hardwired and others wireless?
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I tried a few Amazon/eBay batteries with no success. As soon as I installed the official part from B&O it worked right away and I’ve had no problems
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Any Bluetooth headphone transmitter should work as the 9000 has a standard headphone jack
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I woke up a boot-locked BEO6 recently. Unit had a new battery but would not power on or show any signs of life on the charger. Config tool would not see it plugged in either. I had to use VirtualBox to emulate Windows 7 with the config tool and it woke right up. All signs pointed to completely dead but it just needed the right connection to the config tool.
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I imagine this would work fine. If you are shopping for used Sonos, please make sure the manufacture date is 2015 or newer – Only units 2015 or newer will work with the current-gen Sonos app (I think the cut off date was technically mid 2014 but just to be safe).
A more reliable(?) new solution may be something like the Wiim Pro as it has a line-in for the turntable and line-out for the 6000s. It wont give full streaming capabilities but Airplay is a close second on a budget.
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Glad you got that out!
I have had decent but inconsistent success with lasers from eBay. Seems like 1/3 don’t work and need to be sent back. There is a sticker on the Philips CD module that will verify which laser you need – requires some disassembly to get to it.
Location: Winter Park, FL
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You will need some kind of preamp with volume control. Something simple and inexpensive like a Schiit Syn or Saga. Alternatively, you could get something from B&O like a Beosound Ouverture, or something new like a Beoconnect Core (this one will give you streaming and multi-room features)
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I’m curious if this screw is not the original. I don’t think I have ever seen a silver screw here – only black. This is only a set screw so it is just threaded into plastic and not metal. With enough torque it should budge, but I wouldn’t want to put too much pressure on the plastic lifter it is threaded into. Tricky.
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Beolab 6000s are still very impressive speakers. Their biggest downside is the lack of low end as they only use two small 3.5″ woofers. They sound great in a small room but could also work in a larger room for background music. A sub could be easily added, and then you’d have a really great sounding system. Beolab 2 and Beolab 11 subwoofers will work natively. You can have a really nice and easy to use system with a Beconnect Core and a pair of BL6000s.
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Ah I see, masterlink will do it too. Glad you got it working!
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I don’t have an Eclipse to test this with, but I know that with my Theatre system, I have a speaker group that is comprised of a pair of BL18s and one BL19 – completely excluding the Theatre bar. However, things may be different with Eclipse
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So, is there anything plugged into the Powerlink port on the 9000? If not, you’ll need an option 1 plug.
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BS9000 IR commands will only work if there is something plugged into the Powerlink port. Do you have speakers connected? Changing option mode via remote also requires buttons that I don’t believe are available on the BR1. You would have to use an older remote. I recommend Beolink 1000 or Beo4.
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Wow good stuff! Looks like you have some things I don’t have. The original buyers only purchased the BM8000, BG8000, BC8002, and SC80 cabinet, so I have the paperwork for all of those. No info on speakers. From what I can tell these systems are pretty hard to find in the US, especially with paperwork.
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That’s great!
You can control the BS9000 with BR One, but I don’t think there is a way to add the “Shift” command, which is required to access test modes.
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It does sound the same. Try the methods mentioned by Bill. In my case I had to replace the whole clamper arm (2854207) as it had physically broken due to heat and I couldn’t bend it back into shape. Old on left, new on right.
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