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How do you manually add a speaker connected to the Receiver 1? Thanks
You cannot include the Receiver 1 in the speaker group when performing Room Sense or Room Sense will completely fail. After you create the listening position with Room Sense without the Receiver 1, you select the listening position, touch the three dots in the upper right corner, and then select Advanced settings. This will allow you to then select the Receiver 1 to include in the speaker group. However, you must manually input all values for the speaker — it isn’t automatically calculated by Room Sense. This feature was added in the latest version of the B&O app.
So how does Theatre know there is something connected? My assumption was some speaker role was added (even if manual addition and even if it is seen as Receiver 1 but may have any speaker connected to it). Obviously, I’m unable to simulate this. Assumed something in “edit positions”
The manual addition in listening positions is far from ideal — but it’s the best we have for right now to add a Receiver 1 until B&O sorts this out to have the proper calculations done in Room Sense. The Beosystem 4, that did not have internal WISA support and relied on a Transmitter 1, would have us add 3.5 meters to the actual speaker distance to compensate for the delay. However, from reading the Beovision Technical Sound Guide it sounds like Beovisions that supported WISA already adjusted for the sound delay.
Currently, Receiver 1 speakers cannot be added by Room Sense. They have to be added manually. Therefore, I’m curious if we need to add extra distance to the actual distance for wireless delay compensation. Has anyone heard an answer to this?
Does anyone know if we need to add to the distance of Receiver 1 speakers to adjust for the slight time lag? I’m thinking that since we’re doing this in the manual settings that the adjustment might not be automatic. We always had to add distance for WISA speakers in the Beosystem 4 settings.
Being more on topic, my migration would have been MUCH easier if B&O wasn’t neglecting the Beosound Moment. Currently, it is impossible to use a Moment with the Theatre. I understand that B&O has moved away from allowing integrated setups with new Beovisions and the Theatre. However, we currently cannot even have the Theatre join a Moment that is playing to play that source. In the B&O app, if you touch the Theatre in the list of devices to join the music playing from the Moment, nothing happens. This just seems to be the Moment. Or perhaps it’s the same with other Mozart products? The Theatre is my only Mozart product.
It does seem that B&O is trying really hard for us to forget that the Beosound Moment ever existed. The Moment has had its terrible snags, but it finally working pretty solidly.
Off-topic I know, but re: above: Detail: Done with RFID tags in the sleeves and a reader behind the paneling. Missing Detail: @beojeff, who’s the integrator? Of did you DIY the reader mount too? I said to BeoBoston what would be *truly* magical would be if there were a camera on the opposite wall (it’s pretty tight quarters right there at the entrance) matching the covers with discogs data. Or a shopping cart scanner on the back for UPC codes (you know, for all that modern stuffe). ¡¡¡Dream on!!!
It’s still not available to the public and is considered an experimental feature of the BLI. I was chosen to beta test. However, the system is actually quite stable and simple as well as very inexpensive for the parts. I used a $10 wooden ipad stand from ikea for my album stand. It just takes a tremendous amount of time for the macro programming, which is actually just quite simple but repetitive. It took me many hours just to update all of the macros from Beosystem 4 to Beosound Theatre.
There are other experimental features of the BLI that are quite fascinating as well. It will be interesting to see what develops over time.
I’ll let Beojeff fill-in the details on that but this is something I’ve seen before. Looks like some sort of coding in the record sleeve with FLAC playback?
2 minute markThat’s the very same setup that I have — but with over 300 LPs. It’s a real jaw-dropper for guests who think B&O is truly magical.
A task that I hadn’t thought of in changing to the Theatre was the editing of macros with the BLI. I just now finally finished the huge task of converting all 300+ vinyl record albums to play through the Theatre. I had programmed over 300 macros to use the secret hidden function of the Beoliving Intelligence to play my vinyl records when they’re placed on a stand — as done in B&O showrooms. It was a labor of love, but the result is pure B&O magic.
I love my Beolab 9s. They have such a deep, rich bass and are great for both music and movies. Of course, 90s are the coveted speakers, but there is quite a huge jump in cost to get to the 50s or 90s. Steve at Sounds Heavenly did a great video about the Beolab 9s where he applauded them as great speakers at a reasonably affordable price.
The BL3s are surprisingly good performers when you add a subwoofer to them. Just please don’t place them upside-down as they’re shown in the comedy show “Modern Family.”
Thank you, Geoff.
When you explain things, it really helps me understand. I’m beginning to see that maybe I had gotten too hung up on the 7.1.4 (or maybe it’s 7.3.4 now according to the new role options for subwoofers?) limitation of True Image upmixing. I had become so fascinated by the speaker placement guides on the Dolby Atmos site that I was thinking how great it would be to take advantage of True Image to extend my setup to 9.1.4 or even 11.1.6. Perhaps MORE speakers might not always be BETTER — such as in a setup where I was thinking of adding BL6000 speakers for the Wide roles when those speakers would not be able to perform as well as the 4 BL9 and 2 BL1 speakers they would be competing with.
Also, note that we can now assign the “Center” role to the Theatre’s Front and Left Front-Firing speakers. I’m interested to compare the difference with these added speakers.
Wait, how you do this? I have the beta app and the latest firmware and it still won’t let me do that.
Remember that, if you choose to do this, the Speaker Distances and Speaker Levels that you assign to multiple outputs with the same Speaker Role have a HUGE effect on the perceived result. This is also true with VERY small changes in parameters when the physical sources are close together. In other words, don’t jump to conclusions about “how things sound” without playing around with the parameters significantly.
Indeed. I watched “Yellowstone” and kept toggling between having just the center front-firing speaker and also having all three front-firing speakers as the center role. I found that using all three speakers of the Theatre for the center role was too much and really reduced the immersive surround sound. I think that just using the single speaker for center channel might be better.
I hope that future development of the app will let us indicate which type of beolab speaker is connected to a Receiver 1 so that Room Sense has the information to do the proper calculations.
Is there a place where I can find what value to assign to a Beolab 2 connected via Receiver 1 for the Redirection Level? If I were to connect it to a wired socket temporarily to get the value via Room Sense, I would have to re-do everything.
Also, note that we can now assign the “Center” role to the Theatre’s Front and Left Front-Firing speakers. I’m interested to compare the difference with these added speakers.
Wait, how you do this? I have the beta app and the latest firmware and it still won’t let me do that.
You must follow Razlaw’s instructions. You first create a listening position and save it. Then, you go back into that listening position, select the three dots in the upper right corner of the screen, and select “Advanced.” Then, you can go into the speaker settings and assign the role to the front-firing speakers. The public B&O iOS app update just came out this morning to allow me to do this.
My LG TV added my LG washer and dryer. It would actually be useful to see notifications of washer and dryer cycles finishing. However, I haven’t been able to figure out how to do that.
“Christmas Vacation” with Chevy Chase. Be sure to watch for the Beosystem 4500 that gets destroyed.
You don’t want to be reminded that “Life is Good” every time you turn off the TV? -Just kidding
I have a G2 and used the included flush mount wall bracket. It does allow it to be pulled out from the wall a few inches. In fact, that is how it is installed. The wall bracket is to be in the extended position when the G2 is attached to it. Once the G2 is mounted, it is then pushed flush against the wall and the bracket fold in to the recess on the back of the G2.
Ah. The salesperson at Best Buy must not have understood. He advised that the bracket that came with the G2 was strictly fixed.
I actually pulled my C2 forward a little so that it’s totally centered with the depth of the Theatre. I think it looks great floating like that.
A big difference in the LG C2 and G2 is the approach of wall-mounting.
The G2 is meant to be completely flush with the wall like a painting. The big disadvantage that I saw with this is cable access. In order to obtain that completely flush wall mounting, you need a static mount like the one that ships with the G2. Any mount that provides for movement for cable access will not be totally flush. Any time you would need to access the cables, you would need to remove the G2 from the wall.
The C2, however, is intended to appear floating in front of the wall. There is no issue with access to cables and the result for both the C2 and the Theatre is truly stunning. They appear to float.
Have you ever added a BL2 to your BL1 speakers? It seems that most people find that the BL2 adds that extra bass that the BL1 lacks to really round out the BL1. That’s why I’m thinking that any subwoofer in the back of your setup might really add to your BL1 speakers that you like in the back. If nothing else, you can physically feel the presence during those action scenes.
Do you think the benefit is more from the 4000s or the 2? I have 28s as fronts, 1s as rears, and have a 19 on it’s way to try.
I think both for different reasons. Previously, I had been using the Theatre’s upward-firing speakers for the front height. However, that wasn’t well suited to my loft condo with very high ceilings. The 4000s provide better L&R Front Height roles.
The BL2 just adds some crazy extra bass. Maybe too much except for when I want to be immersed in action movies. Otherwise, the 4 BL9 speakers still provide great bass. I know that the Receiver 1 limits the very lowest bass of the BL2 a little, but I think that might actually be for the best in keeping peace with my neighbors!
My first reaction to adding the L&R Front-Firing Theatre speakers to the Center role is that I don’t need to increase the volume level as much. I’m interested in hearing every one else’s comparison as to whether to add the L&R Front Firing speakers to the Center role.
I can already notice a huge difference adding a BL2 and two BL4000 speakers for front height to my existing setup of BL9 for front, BL1 for surround, BL9 for back and BL4000 for surround height.
How perfect that this coincides with today’s release of “House of the Dragon” on UHD. I’m eager to try out the scene with two dragons chasing and battling each other.
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