[Beofile7]

Yes I have just noticed the same. I am afraid I virtually gave up using the app for anything long ago. It is just too painful to use.

I put off buying a Halo but eventually sucummed. All the colours are still there. (for now!!)

[Beofile7]

My understanding is that beam width plays no part in room compensation? Either will do and then choose wide or narrow and save as a preset?

Unless someone knows different?

[Beofile7]

Well to be fair my issue is also a first world problem, just a different century!

[Beofile7]

Meanwhile, I am complaining because the drawer drive belt on my Beocord 7000 has just failed!

Oh how times have changed?

But you know what?… I’ll fix that with a new belt and an hour of my life. No more!

 

[Beofile7]

I have my beogram CD7000 connected to BL50 via powerlink and SP/DIF. Whilst the powerlink still works the SP/DIF just stopped working.

I haven’t researched any causes yet but reading  your post makes me think perhaps an update to the BL50’s has caused this and your issue?

[Beofile7]

Put your thumb on the icon and hold it there. It will open the Beosonic page.

[Beofile7]

What sound controls are you missing?

I have this set up with USB connection and am not seeing any missing?

[Beofile7]

Yes. Remove the Apple TV and the strange menu goes with it! Plug it into the BV7 and it’s still not there! Weird?

[Beofile7]

Hej Guy

Thank you so much for your input. I did go to the service menu and consider a factory reset but am afraid it may make matters worse so decided against it!

I have been using Google Chromecast with the BV-10 for a few years with no complaints at all. This all came about due to the sudden failure of all Chromecast 2 modules a few weeks ago. I had the chance to get an Apple TV 4 so decided to go for it as a replacement for the Chromecast. But now it seems that to get a PUC code for Apple TV would cost way more than I paid for the Apple TV!? As a result I have installed it in my BV7-40 which is in the (little used) family room. But it does has the PUC codes already installed. It is now working just great.

I have re-installed the Chromecast into the BV10-32 (bedroom TV) as Google have now resolved the issue and it’s back to where it was. To be honest I think I prefer this for the bedroom as I can easily meander through an Ipad whilst snoozing in my pit and then simply cast anything interesting to the TV.

The DVB-HD does seem to be behaving itself so best left alone???

Once again many thanks for your assistance.

 

 

[Beofile7]

Thanks for the assistance. I know there was a list of PUC codes on the TV previously as I stumbled apon them by accident a few times but it appears that now there is just “B&O test control” There are no others. How this could happen I have no idea?

Additionally a new menu has appeared down the left side of the screen in a foreign language  on DTV despite English being selected. It seems to have a mind of it’s own?

[Beofile7]

AND I would add…. multiple rejected “passwords” until I eventually found the right one! To watch TV??????????????? Come on?

[Beofile7]

An update……..

I have now tried every possible speaker connection option and they all fail miserably when compared to a direct Beomaster 7000- Beolab 50 powerlink connection! That is very surprising to me as I connected my Beolab Penta 2’s to the Beomaster 7000 and Beolink was better than Powerlink! Today I tried a direct Beolink. It was awful!

But it is what it is.

I can control the Beosystem 7000 via wifi though the BL/ML and app or Halo with no issues at all.

But… The sound quality fails. In every way.

I cannot listen to inferior sound quality on BL50’s just because it is controllable through a Halo?

So I can recognise where I went wrong… I have been beaten!

A Brand new boxed ML/NL and 1611 converter is now available to anyone who wants?

 

[Beofile7]

I am sure any would now be well overdue a refoam and possibly an amplifier rebuild? I had the 2’s. They sounded massively superior to the 1’s to my ears. I don’t think there was any sound improvement to the 3’s, just the display in green. (The 2’s looked better.) I would avoid the 1’s, (not even powerlink possible) but 2/3’s with a complete rebuild should be the same?

[Beofile7]

He did my MMC2 a few years ago. If you upgrade, the MMC number become irrelevent. I was upgraded to nude Shibata. Even though it says MMC2 on the cartridge it now knocks the socks off an original MMC1. It really is a case of the more you spend the better it gets.

 

[Beofile7]

It works just great. But there is a marked reduction in sound quality. I heavily suspected this would happen.

[Beofile7]

Carolpa.

You are a genius!!!!

I had multiroom selected off on the Core.

It is now all there. I am so happy!

Thank you so much. :))))))))

[Beofile7]

Carolpa

Beoconnect Core yes. You are correct I have BV11, Beoconnect Core and Converter NL/ML all on one network. Beolab 50’s also on the same network connected to the Beoconnect Core via USB-C.

Beosystem 7000 is connected to a 1611. That in turn ML to the Converter NL/ML. Also set as V master.

All are on the B&O app.

So everything makes sense right up until “link the core.” It will not. “Could not expand experience.”

[Beofile7]

I think I was suffering from finger trouble with the Beo4? Sources need to be selected first. With the Beolink 7000 it knows the source… the Beomaster 7000 tells it.

I will bear your suggestion of an I/R sensor in mind but I am not sure about having the main connection between Beomaster 7000 and Beolab 50 going through multiple conversions and cables and units. I feel much more comfortable having a direct powerlink from the master to the speakers. But it may be an option?

The Beolab 50’s have multiple inputs. I am currently using 3 of them… Wired powerlink from the 7000. Wireless powerlink from a Beovision 11 and USB C from a Connectcore. Previously I was using optical also. They automatically switch between sources and have a priority so I am not worried about 2 sources being fed simultaniously. The speakers work that out and illiminate all bar one.

On the face of it as long as the internal wiring of the adapter I have ordered is correct it should work?

Then again, I was saying that 3 weeks ago when this started. ???

[Beofile7]

Thank you so much Guy (s) for your inputs.

I have managed to “unmute” the sound using the Beolink 7000. ‘Not sure why that would not work with the Beo4? The system then is fully controllable via I/R and the Beoconverter will control sources/tracks etc. but again no volume. As the purpose of all of this is to control the 7000 via a Halo (which is essentially a volume control) the project is failing badly?

I am coming to the conclusion that it may not be possible for the Beoconverter to interact with a Beomaster output, only source selection.

As a last ditch effort I have ordered an RJ45 – RCA lead to connect the Converter powerlink outlet to the RCA input of my Beolab 50’s. Thereby treating it as a seperate source.

The 50’s are blessed with the ability to differentiate between inputs and only allows one at a time with automatic switching.

My worry now is that the converter’s output is powerlink not just a speaker outlet so the new wiring connections may not be correct? We will find out tomorrow night when it arrives!!!!!!!!

I’ll keep you posted.

 

 

[Beofile7]

No that doesn’t help. The Beoconverter NL/ML I have just purchased new. It came sealed in it’s box. It has had no previous owner. However I have reset it and started again. All to no avail! There is no 7000 option. But regardless of this I have tried every conceivable combination of setup options and the best I can do is controlling all the 7000 functions except volume. There is none! The display on my Beolink 7000 shows speakers muted but if I “unmute” them with I/R it does not work.  So yes it all works except all I hear is silence!

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