[987nick]

@glitch Thanks.

I’ve found it.  Turns out it is in line with the IC by the ribbon connector and not to the side.  Turns out the CD3300 service manual has another servo board detailed right at the end of the book.  I was looking at the 1st one in the book.  I should have learnt by now to read right to the end before I waste people’s time.

Now off to test the laser power output.

[987nick]

Just to bump this, any other suggestions?

[987nick]

I’ve seen that and it does look familiar.  And, that’s how I knew I don’t seem to have a resistor in the same place.  My board has a gap.

[987nick]

pepps wrote:

Hi @987nick , What was the outcome of your endeavours? Did you buy a UK cartridge or did you go for the Soundsmith option? Julian

Sorry for delay in replying.  I bought one from the UK, a Tonar one, which is made by Soundsmith.  It arrived in one piece (always a relief for such a small and expensive part) and has worked fine so far.

[987nick]

Good idea.  Being a lifelong cynic, I think I’d have asked that but it’s good to hear I’m not alone in that thinking.

[987nick]

I called one of the UK sellers and they said their cartridges all new non B&O.  They used to to do refurbs, but the “man” who did them is no longer available.

I didn’t have the cheek to ask where they sourced them from.  But, before I buy one I will ask if they’re importing Soundsmith ones.

[987nick]

Thanks for the input.  I don’t have the old cartridge; must have thrown it away about 20 years ago when I knocked the tip off.

My plan is to buy a new one from the UK, but before I did that I wanted to see if there was any downside to this.

[987nick]

I sorted out why it wouldn’t play tracks in the 2nd half of a CD.  For some reason the unit’s top had dropped slightly blocking the full path of the laser assembly.  I took the whole thing apart and sanded a little of the plastic from the underside of the cover.

Next problem, whilst it now lets you advance to any track, it only plays about 2 minutes of any track.  I’ve read dry solder joints are known to be a problem so I’ll look at the power supply joints first.

Unless, that is, somebody has a better idea.

[987nick]

Small success.  The lid now opens perfectly after changing the belt.  I’m waiting for the door control board capacitor to arrive in the next couple of days to hopefully stop the little jump when it closes.

But, failure with regard to getting it to play CDs.  I changed the servo board capacitors using the kit from Beoworld and it made no difference.  Having said that, the old blue capacitor did measure a high ESR and mf outside the normal tolerance so I think it was right to change them.

I now think it might be a mechanical issue relating to the laser assembly.  When it’s looking for a track at the end of the CD it does make a noise like it might be hitting something.  Whilst the laser seems to move freely, I don’t really know what I’m looking for with regard to its limits of travel.

 

[987nick]

Good luck with the soldering.  I’ve just done one for the first time in about 40 years, and forget how much a pain in the proverbial it is.

[987nick]

I think you need a cable with a proper earthing from the turntable.  The connector you’ve bought won’t have this.

You can get one at Sounds Heavenly.  Or, Beocable on eBay do one.

I’d be interested how you get on as I’m intending to connect my Beogram 3300 to an amp using the Pro-ject phono box with the Beocable connector.  I’m just waiting to buy an MMC4 cartridge.

 

[987nick]

Update on this issue.  I’ve got nowhere.

I’ve checked all the electrolytic capacitors (admittedly in circuit) and where applicable compared the left channel ones to the right channel.  Most of the readings were the same on both channels.  A couple differed so I removed these and checked them with a component tester, but they then tested OK.

I also rechecked my solder joints where I had to cut out a break in the DIN cable.  They are all OK.

My thinking is to now check the transistors, but I’ve not found many references to these failing.  Or, should I remove the left channel capacitors one at a time and check them out of circuit?

 

[987nick]

Thanks for that, I just wanted to check I wasn’t missing something before I start to remove components for off board checking.   Those resistors are my starting point as all the others in that part of the circuit have similar values for left and right channels.

I will also be removing and checking capacitors as some of those are giving weird readings.

[987nick]

Update – bought lead to plug into my Cyrus amp and nothing.  I tried it with the B&O CD player and tape deck using different amp inputs.  Turns out the lead is one to plug non B&O stuff into B&O amps.  Not really sure why it wouldn’t work and why it’s got a 7 pin female din at one end.  I’m waiting for the supplier to tell me where I’ve gone wrong.

If this helps with a diagnosis, I plugged it back into the Beomaster.  As I said, the left channel is very soft and hissy, the right channel is fine.  I did notice today the Dolby is  working on the left channel; turn it off very hissy, turn it on hiss is significantly reduced.

I checked the capacitors using a multi meter with a capacitance test function on the main board whilst it’s still in the machine.  I found the left channel caps are reading the same as the right channel.  I know you should check them after removal from the circuit to get a true reading, but if they measure the same would that indicate they’re OK?

[987nick]

Pretty sure it’s the Beocord.  If I plug it into the CD input on the Beomaster I get the same problem.  The CD3300 plays OK through the CD input, albeit for only 30 seconds but that’s a problem for another day.  The CD3300 also played OK through the tape input.

But, as I’m going to buy a 7 pin female to RCA anyway to run the Beogram through the main system I might as well get it now just in case there is a problem with the Beomaster.

 

 

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