Home › Forums › General Discussion & Questions › B&O Loudspeaker Switch IR Eye pinout help requested
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14 May 2022 at 09:01 #34821
Hi all,
I’m trying to test my “Loudspeaker Switch” When i turn it on, it automatically goes to channel 1, but in order to change channels, you need to connect an IR receiver.
Now according to the archieved forum “The IR looks identical to the MCL IR but it’s not the same. It has an 6 pin DIN lead, but only pins 1,3+5 are used, number 8712009″
From: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/35139.aspxNow i do have an MCL IR and an DIN cable that fits, but i can only find IR pinouts for DIN connectors with more pins.
Can someone tell me to which pins i should connect the wires from the MCL IR? i suppose it’ll be the Green: 5v, Brown: ground? and White: Data. But correct me if i’m wrong!
15 May 2022 at 10:03 #34822Can someone tell me to which pins i should connect the wires from the MCL IR? i suppose it’ll be the Green: 5v, Brown: ground? and White: Data. But correct me if i’m wrong!
I made some notes when I used an MCL sensor as a Beoport IR sensor. The three connections that you require are:
Ground – Brown
IR Data – Yellow
+5v – GreenWhite is indeed a data connection but is used for relaying the other functions within the MCL sensor, particularly from pressing the buttons (eg Mute and Timer).
Hopefully you can work out the correct 5 pin DIN pins from having a look at the internal wiring of the loudspeaker switch.
IMPORTANT EDIT: I have just realised that I actually used a VX sensor (similar to MCL but without Mute and Timer buttons) when I was experimenting. The VX sensor only has three wires, hence IR data had to be Yellow by process of elimination! I think that in your MCL sensor then ‘White’ may well be the data connection that you need. Sorry for the confusion!
15 May 2022 at 10:57 #34823I made some notes when I used an MCL sensor as a Beolink PC IR sensor. The three connections that you require are: Ground – Brown IR Data – Yellow +5v –
Hi Guy, does that mean you can use MCL IR sensors (square ones) with more modern hardware that need round sensors ?
To be more precise, would an MCL82 type 2041 sensor be able to control a beolink passive ?
Thank you.
15 May 2022 at 11:47 #34824does that mean you can use MCL IR sensors (square ones) with more modern hardware that need round sensors ?
I definitely used an old VX sensor as the IR input for a Beoport, and I remember making a short adaptor so that I could also connect it to a Beolink Passive or Active – see photo (adaptor lying on desk to the left):
But I have never owned any of the older MCL82 equipment hence can’t comment. However, if you can determine the correct +ve, ground and ‘IR data’ connections in the MCL82 sensor (and if it also runs on a 5V supply) then it would be worth a try to see it it works as an IR sensor for newer equipment.
I may have posted more about IR sensors in the archived forum – hopefully it will be back soon!
16 May 2022 at 08:40 #34825Thank you Guy, after a little search the Beolink MCL82 type 2041 works with the BS5000 and BC7700. The search also returned a little extract from the Beoworld product page that says: “It was superseded by the later MCL2 system which used Beolink 1000 codes.”
So I’ll assume it may potentially not work with moderne remotes. When I had a full 5000 system, I used little cheap IR repeater to help the return of the IR signal to the remote. It did work when the same repeater don’t with modern Beo remotes (1000/4/6/5000). So the theory is it wont work.
To the OP, apologies for this little out of topic, I felt like it didn’t deserved a full thread on it’s own. It’s now ended.
16 May 2022 at 15:12 #34826Thanks! I found the +5v (and 12v) coming out of the “Loudspeaker Switch’ IR din”. Now i will trace the wiring to see if i can determine which pin should be “Data”
I attached the MCL IR EYEto the +5v and GND and the lights of the IR EYE did turn on, the Loudspeaker switch clicked a lot, and i was able to light up the “receiving” light on the MCL IR EYE when pressing buttons on a beolink 1000 remote.
Unfortionally the loudspeaker switch doesn’t do anything anymore. I’m not sure if it’s stuck on a channel until i press the right button, but i can’t… Dont know which one is the data cable or perhaps i accidentally shorted something, i don’t know and this is how far my expertise goes with this kind of equipment.
So it’s on eBay now, and until then, it’s a nice display piece in my room 🙂
Tested the voltage with an multimeter, didn’t think of that before:
@matador
And no worries about not being on topic, i think you are and probably help someone who looks here 🙂 -
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