Beogram 1900 “Restore”

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  • #9710
    adyan
    BRONZE Member
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    Hello all,

    got my hands on an Beogram 1900 with working MMC 4000 that I would like to restore. In principle it works but some Questions:

    • Runs to slow, motorshaft is getting hot. Beoparts has no new bearings for this model. Does it make sense to clean and relubricate the old bearings? Will this last?
    • Other than that the mechanics have to be cleaned and lubricated…
    • There are some parts missing from the dust cover…for example the spring and the 3 brackets. Is there someone who has those parts and is willing to sell?
    • Finish/wood? See attaches picture. Is this normal or is the veneer missing ?
    • Anything else to consider? Tips?

    Thanks in advance.

    Christian

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    #9716
    Mark-sf
    BRONZE Member
    • Topics Started 0
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    From your picture it is missing the veneer. Quite frankly I was never a fan of that motor but you have nothing to loose in trying to relubricate it. Cannot comment on how long it will last. I would also have the stylus checked for wear as you don’t want to be damaging your records.

    #9739
    Dillen
    Moderator
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    The bearings from Beoparts-shop does not have the extra flange found in some of these motors, but they work fine nonetheless.

    Looks like what was once a white version. Look for a stamped letter on the serial number label.
    P=Palisander, T=Teak, E=oak (Eg in danish), H=White (Hvid in danish).

    Many white Beograms from this time has ended up looking egg-shell or even
    light beige from decades of age, sunlight and nicotine.

    Martin

    #9744
    adyan
    BRONZE Member
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    Thanks for your answers.


    @Martin
    :

    are you referring to the bearing which are available for 3 or 4.5 mm spindle?

    Also any chance to get a spring for the cover?

    Christian

    #9745
    Dillen
    Moderator
    • Topics Started 2
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    Yes, those bearings.
    Not sure if I have a spring.

    Martin

    #9750
    adyan
    BRONZE Member
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    Thanks you.

    I will ask for the spring at beaoparts.

    Any other things to consider?

    Regards

    Christian

    #10091
    adyan
    BRONZE Member
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    Hello again,

    got some parts from beoparts, still having trouble…

    Changed bearings and belt but doesn’t work properly. Still to slow and motor is getting way to hot. Also motor is noisy, thought this was a bearing problem but isn’t. Noise is only there when motor ist powered, otherwise seems to run smooth and silent.

    Found this:

    https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/6873/62531.aspx#62531

    but as far as I can check this is not my problem…

    and this:

    https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/38447.aspx

    Both of my coils measure the same, about 167 Ohm.

    Because the motor gets so hot I think there is probably shorts in the coils?

    Any tips what to check? Do I have to find another motor?

    Thanks in advance

    Christian

    #10167
    Dillen
    Moderator
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    Sure you have the spindle aligned correctly axially with the bearings?
    Does the speed adjustment move the small magnets all the way out and away from the brake disc?

    I take it this is not a 60Hz (US) deck running on 50Hz (europe etc.)?

    Martin

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by Dillen.
    #10170
    adyan
    BRONZE Member
    • Topics Started 1
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    Thanks for you answer, Martin.

    Not sure what you mean with “correctly aligned axialy”, put everything back together as it was before… There is nothing to adjust, is there?.

    If the motor is turned manually (or if the power is disconnected) it runs fine and silent, as soon as the motor gets power there is relativly loud noise and the whole motor gets very hot, so hot that it is not touchable…

    My thinking it´s an electrical problem, not a mechanical.

    From your experience: Do these motors go bad?

    To answer your take on 50/60Hz, yes it´s a 50Hz deck used in germany.

    Thanks in advance

    Christian

    #10172
    Dillen
    Moderator
    • Topics Started 2
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    Originally, a special tool was available in order to align the spindles position.
    This tool is nowhere to be found, so in most cases a careful check for free spinning of the spindle is all we can do to get it right.
    The coil block and the two plates holding the bearings can be moved in relation to each other.
    It’s not a lot, actually very little, but even an ever so tiny move could result in a much more free rotating spindle. As can a little wiggling of the spindle to make bearings run “clean” on their inside races axially rather than rub on edges.
    Rotate the spindle by hand, and watch the run down time. The spindle should run for as many seconds as possible.

    The motor will normally run a little warm after some minutes, but not hot.
    If it runs hot there is something run. Has its coils been correctly electrically connected (in series and not parallel etc.)?

    Martin

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by Dillen.
    #10174
    adyan
    BRONZE Member
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    I will check your points next weekend and than come back here.

    Thanks

    Christian

    #10442
    adyan
    BRONZE Member
    • Topics Started 1
    • Total Posts 12

    Hello again,

    to clear this up:

    Martin pointed me kind of in the right direction with making a point about 50/60 Hz…

    I checked the power cabling and found the deck was set to 110 V! Not sure why and who did this but that was the problem. Switched to 220V and the deck is working now.

    Regards

    Christian

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