Beovision 7-32 with Beosystem 3

[CharlieWednesday]

I have decided to get my Beovision 7-32 out of the cupboard as I have managed to get hold of a stand for it.  The main problem with a BV-7 these days is however the lack of inputs – it only has one DVI input.

I wonder then, could I use it with a Beosystem 3? I know the Beosystem 3 wasn’t intended for use with a BV-7, but does anyone know if they will work well together?  This would have the advantage of significantly increasing the number of inputs I have for my BV7 you see, in particular, 4 HDMI ports!

[CharlieWednesday]

Before I go spendign money on any useless adapters or cables, I’m hopign for some advice here.

I want to take the Beovision 8-40 out of my office and replace it with the Beovision 7-32 I had stored away unused for a while.  I know it’s older, but it looks so good, and I have just managed to get hold of a motorised stand for it too.

Of course the BV7-32 has no HDMI inputs.  The nearest it has in a DVI-I, so I bought a cheap HDMI-DVI-I adapter from Amazon to test it, and connected my Google TV device to it.  I then set AV2 up as ‘PC’ in the connections menu, and switched the HDTV option to ‘DVI-I’

I got a picture from my Google TV but it was poor, and had lines across.  I unplugged the adapter, plugged it back in, and the picture disappeared completely – it’s a cheap adapter I bought just to test it, so probably juts poor quality.

So, this is what I want to connect to my Bv7:

• Google TV
• Nintendo Switch
• Nintendo Wii U

All of these would normally be connected via HDMI, but as the BV7 has no HDMI inputs, I am not sure what to do!

I did wonder if the best option would be the Beosystem 3 Mk2, as that has 2 DVI-I outputs and 4 HDMI inputs, but I am not sure if a Beosystem 3 and a Beovision 7 will play well together?  Would they both be trying to respond to the same Beo4 commands?

Another option is to buy a better quality HDMI to DVI-I adapter, but one that also has audio connection, as I had forgotten – DVI-I doesn’t carry audio!

I also see that HDMI to YPBPR, and also HDMI to SCART adapters are available, but I am assuming they would not give me a 720p input.

Any advice would be much appreciated.  The BV7 TV may be nearly 20 years old but it still looks great, and it would be a shame not to make good use of it.

 

[Madskp]

No t having any experience with the BS3 the biggest problem I see with combining the two devices is double commands. You might be able to avoid the double command by setting one of the devices in option 4 (Link + commands). If you do that for the BV7 you can turn it on with Link + PC command and control all sources from the BS3 with normal commands. To avoid Masterlink conflicts you should only connect one of the devices to ML unless you setup the BS3 as a link room.

 

[Madskp]

Also see this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-6-with-beosystem-3-and-beocenter-2-how/ where a similar setup was discussed. Especially the last post mentions that the Beolab 7.x speaker can be connected to the BS3 effectively just making the BV7 a screen if you do no need the built in sources

Edit: Now with link

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks – yes I was thinking the same, I juts wondered if B&O would have thought of that, and made them able to recognise each other better.

Does anyone have any advice of the alternatives to using a Beosystem 3 – using HDMI to DVI-I/YPBPR/SCART adapters?

[CharlieWednesday]

Madskp wrote:

Also see this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-6-with-beosystem-3-and-beocenter-2-how/where a similar setup was discussed. Especially the last post mentions that the Beolab 7.x speaker can be connected to the BS3 effectively just making the BV7 a screen if you do no need the built in sources

I’ve taken a look at that post, and yes, I do see an option:

• Beosystem 3 in Option 1
• Beosound 4 in Opt 2 (?)
• Beovision 7 in Opt 0

The reason I say BV7 in Opt 0 is that I have the ML Gateway, and should therefore be able set a macro that turns on the BV7 whenever I select a source on the BS3, and turns it off when I turn the BS3 off.  Might work, anyway!

My only worry is that the DVI-I input socket on my BV7 might not be working – I have nothing else to test it with, but I suspect the problem I had was with he cheap HDMI to DVI-I adapter I bought from Amazon.

Beosystem 3 Mk2 come up on eBay for anything between £100 to £500, so I’ll keep my eye out for one at a reasonable price (£150ish seems about right).

Edit: And I also believe the above configuration would require my Beolab Penta to be connected to the BC3, rather that to the BS4 as they are now.

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Beosystem 3 in Option 1 Beosound 4 in Opt 2 (?) Beovision 7 in Opt 0

You can not have 2 videomasters in a ML system (option 1 and 0), and a TV as a link room can not have the IR disabled. Based on that I would say:

Beosystem 3, option 5

Beosund 4 option 1 (only respond to audio commands so you do not activate both the BS4 and the Beosystem 3 at the same time)

Beovision 7 option 0 (alternativly option 4)

 

Alternativly if no speakers are connected to BS4 that could also be in option 0 and the Beosystem 3 in option 6

 

However if you want to be able to control the BV7 stand more than just have a standby and normal use position you will have to think of another way of controlling it if the TV is in option 0.

[CharlieWednesday]

Blimey, it’s more complicate than I thought!  Thanks for all the advice though.

First things first, I’ve ordered an HDMI to DVI cable so I can at least try to connect the BV7 to my PC, and make sure that DVI input on the BV7 is working okay.  Until I’ve figure it all out, I’ll keep the BV8 in my office for now!

I’m not absolutely convinced all inputs and outputs on the BV7 are working.  I tested the projector output and that’s working okay, and I also tested the AV1 SCART by connecting an old HDR1 to it.  The HDR1 played okay, but would not record.  It’s an old HDR1 which only has a (now useless) analog tuner, but it’s my understanding that when connected to a Beovision TV correctly, it should be able to record from the TV; that’s certainly what the manual suggests, anyway.  It won’t record though, so I’m beginning to think my BV7 might has some issues.  That’s why I want to test it properly before shelling out on a BS3.

[Madskp]

Regarding the DVI input be avare that the BV7-32 has a max resolution of 1366×768 so will not show a picture if a 1080P signal is incomming.

For my BV6-23 I had to change the resolution on a Apple TV3 when connected to another TV and the connect it to the Converter connected to the BV6-23 to make it work

[CharlieWednesday]

That should be fine. The Google TV automatically detects the output resolution and should set itself. The Nintendo Switch is 720p max anyway. I’m not sure about the Wii U though, I’ll check that.

[CharlieWednesday]

I can now be sure that my current problem seems to lie with the cheap HDMI to DVI adapter I bought from Amazon – I plugged it all back in this morning and the Google TC worked!  It was set to 720p 60Hz, and was working fine, with a really good picture.

So, I unplugged it and plugged in my Nintendo switch instead – nothing.  I unplugged that, and reconnected the Google TV – nothing.

So, I fidgeted around with the plug on the back, it came back on!  I was also able to connect my Nintendo Switch, and that worked.

So, it’s probably the fault of that cheap HDMI to DVI adapter I bought from Amazon (but I suppose it could be that the DVI socket on the BV7 has a poor connection), but at least I know it works, and my plan to use the BV7 in my office is a GO!

[CharlieWednesday]

I can now confirm that the problem was with the HDMI-DVI adapter I got from Amazon – I got a better quality HDMI to DVI cable, and that works fine.  I have a 3-way HDMI switch (which also separates out the audio signal) arriving tomorrow, so that will allow me to use my 3 HDMI devices with the TV, plus my old Nintendo GameCube plugged into a SCART (I’ve feeling up for a bit of retro gaming!).

The only one disappointment – the BV7 user guide recommends for an ‘integrated AV system’ it’s best to set the BV7 in Opt 1, the BS4 in Opt 2, and connect the speakers to the TV.  That worked, but the displays on my Beolab Pentas did not work when connected to the TV.  It’s strange that B&O built the BS4 with Powerlink 2 support, but not the BV7?

I can’t lose those lovely displays on my Beolab Pentas, so I have plugged them back into the BS4 and set both that and the BV7 to Opt 1.  I have to use AV commands to get TV sound, but at least it all works.

 

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I can now confirm that the problem was with the HDMI-DVI adapter I got from Amazon – I got a better quality HDMI to DVI cable, and that works fine.  I have a 3-way HDMI switch (which also separates out the audio signal) arriving tomorrow, so that will allow me to use my 3 HDMI devices with the TV, plus my old Nintendo GameCube plugged into a SCART (I’ve feeling up for a bit of retro gaming!).

Great, hope that solves it. I also had some messing arround with a cheap HDMI audio extractor that i thought was dead, bought another one that did not wor, and the the first one turned out to work after all.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

The only one disappointment – the BV7 user guide recommends for an ‘integrated AV system’ it’s best to set the BV7 in Opt 1, the BS4 in Opt 2, and connect the speakers to the TV.  That worked, but the displays on my Beolab Pentas did not work when connected to the TV.  It’s strange that B&O built the BS4 with Powerlink 2 support, but not the BV7? I can’t lose those lovely displays on my Beolab Pentas, so I have plugged them back into the BS4 and set both that and the BV7 to Opt 1.  I have to use AV commands to get TV sound, but at least it all works.

To bad that the display data does not work. There might be some hints in this thread though https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/14172.aspx

Something about a audio / video switch one the bottom of the Pentas

Hope that is helpfull

 

 

[CharlieWednesday]

Ah, I had completely forgotten about that switch!  Yes hat worked – the Pentas are now plugged into the BV7, and I have set them up as the centre speakers in the BV7 sound options.

The BV7 is in Option 2, and the BS4 is in Option 0.  This makes it work as a truly integrated AV system, where all sources pay through the Pentas, and both the Penta displays, and that lovely vertical display beside the screen on the BV7 shows whatever source I am playing or watching.

I will never use the BV7 and BS4 independent of each other in my office, so this setup works perfectly.

[CharlieWednesday]

I am still on the lookout for a Beosystem 3.  Having everything plugged into the back of the Beovision 7 is messy (1 DVI, 1 SCART, 1 Masterlink, 1 antenna, 1 power cable, 2 Powerlinks), and I also find that I can’t get the back panels onto the TV.  The SCART, and the 2 Powerlink plugs, are too bulky.

So, If I can get hold of a Beosystem 3, I should be able to reduce that to 3 cables (1 DVI, 1 Masterlink, 1 power cable) and plug everything else into the Beosystem 3, which will then offer me a host of inputs and options.

One thing I’ve just realised though – I don’t think the Beosystem 3 has an IR sensor built in – does that mean I will need an IR Eye?  I do have a couple of those spare (with the wrong type of cable connection, but I can change that), but does anyone know if this is necessary?

My thinking is, I use the Beosystem 3 in Opt 1, my Beosound 4 in Opt 2, and put the Beovision 7 into Opt 0.  I’m hoping the BV7 will be clever enough to power on when it gets a signal from the Beosystem 3, but if it doesn’t, I can probably set a macro using my ML Gateway to have it powering on when the BS3 is powered on.

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

One thing I’ve just realised though – I don’t think the Beosystem 3 has an IR sensor built in – does that mean I will need an IR Eye?  I do have a couple of those spare (with the wrong type of cable connection, but I can change that), but does anyone know if this is necessary?

I don’t know if you are able to get the IR commands via the Masterlink Gateway from the BS4, but if not I would say that you will need an IR eye for the BS3.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

My thinking is, I use the Beosystem 3 in Opt 1, my Beosound 4 in Opt 2, and put the Beovision 7 into Opt 0.

I don’t think that will work. Check my comments in the earlier post https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beovision-7-32-with-beosystem-3/#post-59274

CharlieWednesday wrote:

’m hoping the BV7 will be clever enough to power on when it gets a signal from the Beosystem 3,

I am not sure it is. remember the BS3 is practically a Beovision without the monitor, so there would be only few usecase scenarios where a TV should turn on another TV

[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks. I think I’ll just experiment once I actually get my hands on a Beosystem 3!  Yes I see what you mean though about my BV7 in Opt o with the BS3 in Opt 1 – that wouldn’t work as I’d have two video masters.  I think if I have the BV7 in Opt 5 it should work, it’s just  a matter of finding an uncomplicated way of switching the Bv7 on when I switch the BS3 on.  I think my ML Gateway can do that, but I’ll have to experiment with the BS3 when I get one.

[CharlieWednesday]

I have just taken delivery today of my Beosystem 3, and of course, I can’t figure it out!

To make things simple I have disconnected my Beovision 7 TV from the mains and from the ML network for now.  I don’t have an IR eye connected to the BS3 but I am able to power it on – it is connected to my Beosound 4 via ML, and if I put my Beosound 4 into Opt.2 and the Beosystem 3 into either 0 or 1, the Beosystem 3 does power up if I select a video source, such as DTV.  My Beosound 4 display shows that source, and the channel number, so it would appear to be ‘working’.

However, I am getting no video signal out of it.  It’s a Mk2 so it has DVI outputs rather than HDMI but I have a DVI-HDMI adapter connected, and then I have connected it to a normal PC monitor just to test it.  I am getting no video signal.  I have tried Format 0 on the Beo4 remote to switch between TV and cinema mode, and I have tried both of the DVI outputs, but I am getting nothing.  The power LED is on, but I get no display.

It could be that the Beosystem 3 is faulty, but it seems more likely that I am doing something wrong!  Any advice would be much appreciated.

[CharlieWednesday]

Further to the above, I don’t think that having it connected to the same ML network as my Beosound 4 is enough – I think that the Beosystem 3 wants to have its own IR eye.  I have a spare IR eye but don’t have the right type of cable for it (3.5mm jack), but I see that Steve at Sounds Heavenly sells those, so I’ll order one and see if I have any luck with that.

The seller of the Beosystem 3 assures me it was tested and working (they are a business, not a private seller), so I do think it’s probably me making incorrect assumptions about how it should work.  The B&O manual only gives instructions for connecting it to a Beovision 4 and a projector, but since I don’t have a Beovision 4, the IR eye might be a necessity.

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

and the Beosystem 3 into either 0 or 1, the Beosystem 3 does power up if I select a video source, such as DTV.  My Beosound 4 display shows that source, and the channel number, so it would appear to be ‘working’.

I wonder if you can do the option setting via the IR eye on another product. I am not sure that will work.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

However, I am getting no video signal out of it.  It’s a Mk2 so it has DVI outputs rather than HDMI but I have a DVI-HDMI adapter connected, and then I have connected it to a normal PC monitor just to test it.  I am getting no video signal.  I have tried Format 0 on the Beo4 remote to switch between TV and cinema mode, and I have tried both of the DVI outputs, but I am getting nothing.  The power LED is on, but I get no display.

I think what happens is that the BS4 is activating the BS3 to get the sound from it, but since it does not need the picture the BS3 might just start up picture muted. You could try to do the same scenario with the BS4 and your BV7 in the same option settings to see what happens.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I have a spare IR eye but don’t have the right type of cable for it (3.5mm jack), but I see that Steve at Sounds Heavenly sells those, so I’ll order one and see if I have any luck with that.

If you any cable with a 3.5mm stereo minijack in one end you could cut it up and use that to conenct. Of course you can not rely on the color coding then, but if you have a multimeter you can measure which part of the 3.5mm minijack goes to which wire.

 

 

[Author]

Posts