[Jonathan McCall]

Thanks Martin – will clean up the guide rods and investigate the sensor situation. The start of the record is found correctly, does that operate the same way ?

[Jonathan McCall]

Many thanks – so the black wires are just for grounding ? If I’ve got them the wrong way round I may not actually have the Powerlink cable grounded ?

[Jonathan McCall]

Thanks Martin – really appreciated.

Tracking force set to 1.15g (SMC2) and sound fine. Holding down the > arrow to lower the tonearm worked, as my deck is a Beogram 4500.

Only issue now is the stylus sits in the runout groove irrespective of what record is being played. Just like a conventional TT. It should return to the standby position ?

Edit – having tried to play a full record I’m now getting another issue. Previously I’d just used the < > buttons to position the stylus and play a short bit of the record to check there was decent sound. Now, when I try and play a record from the start, the carriage doesn’t move the tonearm assembly along. It works fine with the < > buttons.

I’ve used a dry lubricant Molykote D321 R on the carriage rods. Could this be binding up the whole mechanism?

Cheers

Jonny

• This reply was modified 3 days, 17 hours ago by Jonathan McCall.

[Jonathan McCall]

Everything back together again and working as it should. Importantly, I didn’t damage the MMC2 – which is a relief !

[Jonathan McCall]

Will do ! My surrounding area looked a lot less damaged than yours, so it’s good news that your components are testing ok.

[Jonathan McCall]

Still waiting to get mine back from the chap who’s replacing the blown IC.

Thevone he ordered had incorrect pin configuration, so he had to get one in from China.  Fingers crossed nothing else needs replacing, but that’s why I’m having him check it all over rather than me just replace the IC.

Ill chase him this week as it should be ready about now.

[Jonathan McCall]

After some tweaking of screw B and getting my actuator rod set up correctly, I now have my tonearm level with with pickup arm and the tonearm height actuator rod (plastic one) operates correctly on the lever to raise/lower the tonearm.

The issue I have now is the tonearm doesn’t raise or lower when I press play. It tracks backwards and forwards correctly, but I think I’m missing something. Does the cart need to be in and the case closed for everything to work correctly ?

• This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by Jonathan McCall.

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[Jonathan McCall]

Replaced TR4 & TR5 today and now have the platter starting and stopping as it should.

Im now into an issue with the tonearm height and getting it balanced, so will post separately.

Thanks for the heads up on replacing the transistors – really helpful.

[Jonathan McCall]

I’ve used dry lubricant on my Beogram 4500 – Molykote D321R, although yet to see how it performs, as I’m chasing a couple of other gremlins.

[Jonathan McCall]

Smashing – many thanks Martin. Are all transistors pretty much the same, or are some better quality than others ?

[Jonathan McCall]

Bought a lovely condition used Beocom 2 off eBay as not working.

Ive popped a new battery in and given it a good charge.

The screen lights up but has no logo etc. I do however get regular flashing of the screen on and off.

Done a bit of googling and it appears to be a common issue, but not sure what the fix is.

Any pointers gratefully received !

 

[Jonathan McCall]

Putting everything back together, although still awaiting the RIAA back from my expert in SMDs.

Out of curiosity, can anyone enlighten me as to what the mica plate is for under the PSU board ? It appears to be a shield for the component that sits on top of it, to stop dust getting in, but allowing someone me form of cooling ?

I may be totally wrong, but always keen to learn.

Incidentally, that spring clip is a b ugger to get back on !

Cheers

Jonny

 

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[Jonathan McCall]

The Kose board with just the connector shown was I think the same one from the video where the cable just pulled straight out.

Tried doing that again and no joy, so going with a de-solder. At least that will give me the opportunity to see how it all goes together.

The clip on top of the connector also appears to have little prongs to separate the cables as they enter the connector.

[Jonathan McCall]

Really helpful – thanks Guy. I’m using a component kit from Condor to recap the PSU board, main board and RIAA as well as new diodes, a couple of op-amps (SMD so will leave those to an expert) and new 33&45 trimmers.

I know it sounds like a know what I’m talking about, but I’m basically learning as I go along and it’s very interesting and fun following the circuit diagram and finding out what everything does.

Ive dropped Menahem an email on the connector, so hopefully he can help.

Cheers

Jonny

[Jonathan McCall]

Thanks Mad – I’m thinking that’s the case here, as a firm pull doesn’t give any success. There is a YouTube video of Kose Trading just pulling the cable out on a Beogram 3000, but I’d prefer to take the educated route before getting ham fisted.

If anyone else can chip in that would be appreciated.

[Jonathan McCall]

Thanks Rolf – useful info.

Best

Jonny

[Jonathan McCall]

Hi again MM – Steve’s confirmed everything you said about the 14.

Will see how it works with my setup, but start looking out for an 11. You are talking about an II and not a 2 ?

Appreciate the input – every day is a school day !

[Jonathan McCall]

Far too expensive for a non working phone I’m afraid, but thanks for the heads up.

[Jonathan McCall]

Hi Manfred – do you have a red case in excellent condition ?

Thanks

Jonny

[Jonathan McCall]

Thanks MM – Steve can do RI45 to Powerlink cables, so my further investigation is thinking PL in from 4500 amp, then RJ45 to PL back to the 8000’s ?

I think that way the system b reduces the bass output to the 8000’s.

 

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