[alf]

Thank you kindly for your reply….well, what can I say ?

I suspected amongst other possibilities a flatband connector issue and tried to open the flap-cover without taking the whole amplifier off the penta.

I could not totally open that cover housing pcb 2 but it might have had a strange impact to a degree that the penta now switches back to stand-by….figure that ?!!

i will keep in mind that very transsitor – thank you for that

ALF

[alf]

Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated 😁

the Penta surprisingly have recovered without explanation.

ALF

PS: i wonder if the “old forum” as I know has died ?!

[alf]

I am amazed, no one dares to comment constructively ☹️

not even BeolabPenta experts ??

Come on guys…..

ALF

[alf]

Perhaps to be more specific: i can turn the speaker off to Standby manually though !

ALF

[alf]

Hi,

yes, the BG4000 can seriously challenge you!

as far as the too early arm dropping you can readjust the assigned position spring if a wrongly adjusted spring is the cause ! That would only mean a screw driver and a few tries.

before you start doing this make sure all brass leaf spring switches are clean – if you have not done that ever unsolder the carriage motor connections (2 wires) after you removed the spring assembly plate (2 screws) with the attached red plastic indicator.

once that is done unscrew the position switch board, flip it over and carefully apply some very fine sandpaper like a 1500 grid or higher which you sprayed with contact cleaner. Hand-operate the switches and check they all make proper contact !!

put everything back together and check what happens.

if it still starts with 45rpm measure the Q4 signal which goes to 3IC4 – that flip-flop logic IC is looking after the 45rpm. That IC could be faulty or behaving erratic – not very likely but also not impossible though or simply is not get the correct voltage to prepare that IC for “work”

i just ordered a couple from the UK – they are not exactly cheap.

over time I found that many issues are indeed based on poor or no contact with those brass-leaf contact switches simply because they tend to oxidise.

my issue seem to have stabilised and the unsettling fact is I am not quite sure why ?

If I don’t “hammer” the ON key like it is a very hot surface meaning minimal very short contact but instead keep the ON key pressed for an extra fraction of a second the Beogram has not yet missed a beat…..figure that ?!

hope that gives you some pointers to check 🤞

ALF

[alf]

I fear that issue could be far more complicated as first assumed, documented by the erratic behaviour.

the brass-leaf switches are all cleaned and should have to play in the issue. The SI is stable at 6.2V.

suspects could be on the logic boards, however those flip-flop ICs are regarded as quite reliable?!

nothing can be more rewarding than a intermittent fault, finding its source even more rewarding.

the more important it would be to get some help……anyone ??

ALF

 

 

[alf]

A short update:

I have reflown the wire connection from Q4 mainboard and at the the connection next to 3IC4.

it had a positive impact but is still is not absolute stable ?
It also seem to have an impact on how long I keep the ON key pressed which is strange to say the least.

As the start up at 45rpm was joined by far to early tonearm lowering I will have a look at Q1 and Q0 as well.

the SI is present and jumps up to 6.2V but whether it is coming after a 10ms delay I am not sure – there is a delay when measuring the voltage but 10ms ??

anyhow, at the moment the BG behaves most times as it should but as said, not always.

you are still most welcome to chime in

Regards, ALf

 

[alf]

Hello,

yes, most certainly – items are located in Perth, western australia

shipping would not be a problem ?

thank you

ALF

[alf]

Hi Katie,

if the BG4000 is still available what kind of £££ are you expecting for it ?

you can PM me if you prefer.

Best Regards

ALF

[alf]

Yes, thanks Martin I am aware of this.

if anyone can supply please send PM with photo so I can identify if it is the correct board.

ALF

[alf]

Hi Oldie56,

are you still looking for a good working Beomaster 8000 ?

I would have to split up a complete 8000 system……

reply appreciated either way

thanks

ALF

[alf]

Further up-date, although nothing entirely new:

i have revisited the display – all voltages are present but the 22VDC are actually 24.6VDC which may be too high ?!

the display still comes on for a moment but goes dark again – the supply voltages don’t seem go break down which puzzles me.

the capstan definitely keeps running unless I switch off the mains voltage.
I can not imagine that it spins in St-By mode.

there much be a kind of timer after the deck goes back into St-By mode ???
i did run the tape briefly after disconnecting the protection input to 2IC9 but it made no difference towards the remaining issues.

the issues at hand must be related to the control section.

it looks like a Martin intervention is urgently needed to get to the end – i am running out of ideas how to proceed.

ALF

[alf]

Hi All,

here’s an update:

2 broken tracks were enough not to supply the tape drive – it is now operating.

that was a big step forward. The next issue is the display (logic issue?) and full stop.

the display comes on for a moment but goes back off while the tape is still running after play is initiated.

when the tape comes to the end (stop) the capstan is still running, meaning the deck does not completely shuts off.

Does the reset on 2IC8 happens automatically or is there a procedure to initiate  a reset on IC8 ?
there is a reset section on the circuit diagram.

The other question is : does the deck  have a logic problem that causes the issue?

no, I can do without any further fireworks or smoke ?

ALF

 

[alf]

Hi All,

just a quick update:

I have the 15.5VDC at 2R172 and 14.9VDC at 2R171 but I can not see the 12VDC at the crosspoint of emitter of 2TR38 and collector of 2TR37.

i checked TR37 and installed a jumper from C of 2TR37 to P16-4 thanks to a broken track.

But there are still no 12VDC at 2P16-4, hence no supply of 12VDC for the capstan motor ??

at the moment I am turning in circles….progress but no progress ?

any comments or pointers ?

ALF

 

 

[alf]

Thank you Die and Nick for your inputs – this is where I am at:

i checked 2TR17 which is fed with a 5 VDC supply which tested ok – then checked TR3 on the display board which tested ok.

suddenly the drawer motor came back on board and so did the display…..seems totally unrelated to me but…no complains.

then I checked the belt was fitted correctly and not running on the edge of the black flywheel – belt was sitting perfectly….and NO, the belt is fairly new.

and again: when play is activated the display comes on for a moment, I can hear what has to be the clicking of the solenoides of the tape drive but it just wont play !!

When unsoldering 2P16 I lost the soldering eye of pin1 which is connected to ground – so is Pin5. In that case I connected those two pins. (I blame the desoldering gun)

looks like I still have to find the cause of the not firing tape drive.
One thought was on those two grey wires which connect to the capstan motor terminals A and B.

obviously there were two options of making the connection, so I tries both without any impact on the issue at hand.

any help is most appreciated – thank you

ALF

 

[alf]

I did get back to follow up your suggestion:

all resistors on the PSU section have been tested and all tested ok.

to my understanding the PSU section supplies the necessary voltages to board #2 but

the display is still dead, the drawer motor does not engage nor does the tape drive although when the mains is switched on I can hear a short click in the drive , as it would try  to engage ?…..that’s it.

I feel the 4.6VDC is not enough to light up the display and it puzzles me why and where the lack of voltage is happening ?

will get over it once more – not overly optimistic about a good outcome though.

ALF

 

 

[alf]

Thank you for the  pointers – I thought I did check but will revisit the PSU section.

It seems odd though I can measure  the 5VDC, 15VDC and 26VDC supplies on P2 & P3

ALf

[alf]

Hi All,

beoparts shop was so kind and sent a replacement idler wheel which arrived yesterday.

It is now installed and that knocking issue has disappeared – great outcome.

thanks again to Martin who pointed out a possible wheel problem.

records are playing as we speak….off to the next project.

regards, ALF

 

[alf]

Thank you Martin – I have contacted the Beoparts shop.

it is indeed not easy to see any faults on that wheel with the naked eye.

lets wait and see what comes out of it….

regards

ALF

[alf]

Hi Chris,

good points which I thought I had covered but will certainly have another look !!

I am aware that tiny felt pad can not be too thick as it would otherwise act as a

break pad.

once the workbench is free again I shall have another go and will report back as usual.

regards

ALF

[Author]

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