BeoLink Wireless 1 – no audio with Masterlink connections only

[XavierItzmann]

Bought a BLW1 pair.  Used all known good cables and devices (from my main system), and the BLW1’s are paired to e.a. other (green lights)

BS3000 <> Masterlink cable <> BLW1 Transmit

BLW1 Receive <> Masterlink cable <> Beolab 2000

No sound.  Pressing “CD” on the BL2000 does not start the BS3000 CD, nor does “Radio”.

 

If I connect BS3000 <> Masterlink cable <> BL 2000, everything works as expected.

 

Bad BLW1s?  Return to seller?  Thanks in advance.

[Madskp]

I think that the ML to ML function only works from a certain software version.

In the first version you could only use the powerlink connection on the receiver like a Beolink Active, and need an IR eye

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Looking in my notes i can see that it is from SW 2.1  from serial number 19956171 that the ML to ML functionality was introduced

Source: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/37237/346020.aspx#346020

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Problem with buying the W1’s used is that there is no way to tell the software version (except for the mentioned serial number), and units can have been upgraded with newer software without the seller remebering/knowing

Location: Denmark

[XavierItzmann]

Thank you Mads, great comments!

The serial numbers are separated by a mere 30 units at the very top of the 20810900 range.

Worth mentioning that both T and R go to sleep (solid red) after about 20 seconds, but pressing buttons such as “Play” or “CD” on the BL2000 immediately wakes up both the T and the R;

… ergo, it appears ML traffic is sent, or at least an activity wake-up; however, the audio master BS3000 fails to wake up.  Also of note, having the CD already playing on BS3000 and then trying to get the BL2000 to merely JOIN has no effect.

Sad!  Have to assume the BLWs are duds.

 

 

[XavierItzmann]

Exchanging the units, factory re-setting them, and re-syncing them:

The BLW1 formerly ML’d to the Audio Master as T; now ML’d to the BL2000 as R:  The BL2000’s buttons fail to wake up this BLW1.

Hypothesis: the ML circuitry on this BLW1 has failed, or its mechanical ML connection.  When the now R was the T, it was getting a wireless wake up signal from the other BLW1, and perhaps trying to wake up the Audiomaster, but it “found”  no detectable Masterlink.

I wish I could test if the Powerlink (R) works from the (T) ML’d to the Audiomaster —which is all I really wanted out of this set-up—, but apparently this functionality is non-testable in the absence of a compatible IR Eye.  I have an IR Eye, but its termination is on an ethernet-like connector (RJ-45), not on a Powerlink connector (DIN).

Sad!

[Madskp]

On XavierItzmann said

Exchanging the units, factory re-setting them, and re-syncing them:

I was just about to ssuggest something like that

 

The BLW1 formerly ML’d to the Audio Master as T; now ML’d to the BL2000 as R:  The BL2000’s buttons fail to wake up this BLW1.

Hypothesis: the ML circuitry on this BLW1 has failed, or its mechanical ML connection.  When the now R was the T, it was getting a wireless wake up signal from the other BLW1, and perhaps trying to wake up the Audiomaster, but it “found”  no detectable Masterlink.

That sounds like possible hypothesis.

I wish I could test if the Powerlink (R) works from the (T) ML’d to the Audiomaster —which is all I really wanted out of this set-up—, but apparently this functionality is non-testable in the absence of a compatible IR Eye.  I have an IR Eye, but its termination is on an ethernet-like connector (RJ-45), not on a Powerlink connector (DIN).

The Round IR eyes with a DIN connector from a Beolink passive or active will work if you would happen to have any of theese in your system.

Any B&O IR eye that receive signals from a Beolink 1000 or Beo4 will also work as long as just the ground, +5V and IR data is connected in the DIN connector. So if you happen to have and old MCL IR eye or something else lying arround and are able to solder it in a DIN connector it should be possible to do that.

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

One more thing. have you tried to control the Beolab 2000 with a remote instead of the buttons? It might be a long shot, but just in case something act’s differently

Location: Denmark

[Stan]

I have a pair of bw1s that act like this.  LEDs behave normally, but, over the period of a year (iirc), they went from sporatic sound, then no sound. They mostly worked when new.

[XavierItzmann]

Hello Stan!  Yes, I must say, most B&O equipment tends to be solidly built, but sometimes misfortune happens! I wonder what’s B&O’s designed lifetime.

Mads, I tried using the Beo4, again the (R) now connected to the BL2000 fails to wake up this BLW1 connected as an (R).  And unfortunately I have no other IR Eye.  So I’ve claimed a refund from the seller.

Given the difficulty in ascertaining sw version, this could very well be the end of my explorations into the BLW1 world.

Cheerio!

 

[Madskp]

Sorry to hear that it did not work out, but then this product might never have been a good one.

One major issue is that it use the same 2,4ghz freqency as nany wifi nerworks, bluetooth, doorbells, baby monitors, microwave ovens etc. Which means that many issues can be caused if any of these systems are nearby. I can see in my notes from an older thread that SW 2,1 introduced the possibilty to shift channel, but only by the use of the B&O servicetool which means you would have to take them to a store or get a technitian out to get this done.

Hope you find another way to connect the speaker

Location: Denmark

[Stoobie]

I can confirm with a correctly set-up BLW1 that a Beolab 2000 works (Both with a Beo4 remote using the built in IR eye and local buttons). I have added a handle and permanently connected the BLW1 to the speaker, with a very short ML cable, to make it a bit more portable. I’m listening to it in my study at the moment. It is fairly stable until we use a microwave or the wireless printer which is hardly ever!

I have 1 set to transmitter and 3 receivers. One for the BL2000 (Masterlink – portable), 1 for a set of BL3’s (Kitchen) and one for a set of BL12-3’s (Sun Room) both PowerLink. They all work really well.

I bought my first pair of BLW1’s new, then bought 2 separate used ones later and they did not work with each other or my original two, so I asked my dealer to update them all to the latest software. That was probably about 2015.

Good luck

Stoobie

 

 

My B&O Icons:

[XavierItzmann]

Stoobie, that looks like a great practical solution!

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