Home Forums Product Discussion & Questions BeoLink Beolink 7000 returns No contact

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  • #49437
    lenhi
    SILVER Member
      • Scania, Sweden

      I love my B&O and do not want to give it up, but I have this problem with the Beolink 7000; it starts the Beocenter and the Beogram 7000 and turns them off, as well as all the other functions, but when it comes to the programming and control functions, it returns No contact after five seconds. Is this a common problem, or is my Beocenter in need of something?

      #49438
      filip_kbh
      BRONZE Member
        • Copenhagen

        Hi – it is a known issue. I presume you mean BeoSYSTEM 7000? In the Beolink 7000 there are two SMD caps that fail. They are not difficult to change but of course you need to know what you are doing.

        #49441
        lenhi
        SILVER Member
          • Scania, Sweden

          Not very encouraging, this: Beolink 7000 working/not working – (beoworld.org)https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/15030.aspx

          , while this, on the other hand, just looks challenging; Beolink 7000 “No Contact” issue – (beoworld.org)

          https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/28382.aspx

          #49442
          skolesen
          GOLD Member
            • Hvidovre, Denmark

            As I recall from from recaping my two Beolink 7000 it is the two 22uF/16V SMD cap that need to be replaced.

             

            You can get inspiration here:

            https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/3595/32375.aspx#32375

             

            /steffen

            #49439
            lenhi
            SILVER Member
              • Scania, Sweden

              Thank you for your respons, filip, and no, I have no idea what I am should be doing. Is there some soldering involved? Would you happen to have a blueprint of the Beolink? And yes, it is a BeoMASTER, sandsynligvis!

              Regards

              #49440
              lenhi
              SILVER Member
                • Scania, Sweden

                The battery pack needs to be changed, too, but that should be within my competence, I think

                #49443
                lenhi
                SILVER Member
                  • Scania, Sweden

                  After removing the four screws at the back, lifting the glass, and finding the SMDs, I couldn’t figure out how to remove the metal shield where the SMAs stick up. Advice as to where and how much pressure should be applied, would be much appreciated. I reassembled the link, since I couldn’t find any description of this part of the procedure anywhere. Going out now, to try and find the perfect soldering pencil

                  #49444
                  lenhi
                  SILVER Member
                    • Scania, Sweden

                    OK, so now I have a Weller soldering station and have taken the Beolink 7000 apart again. As far as I can see, there is one little drop of solder holding the metal shield together. So the plan is to melt this, pry loose the shield, and insert a couple of condensers. The excellent work description that Filip posted states that four condensers should be changed. But maybe I should just do those two. Can I get confirmation that I am on the right track? Thank you!

                    #49445
                    filip_kbh
                    BRONZE Member
                      • Copenhagen

                      You are on the right track. When I changed capacitors in mine, I changed all 4 or 5 caps but the only ones that were not measuring correctly were actually the two SMD caps. Remember to clean underneath. Also – there may be caps fluid under the chip that is next to the SMD caps, so give the chip’s legs a good clean with IPA.

                      #49446
                      lenhi
                      SILVER Member
                        • Scania, Sweden

                        Thanks a lot! I really appreciate your talking me through this. I have now loosened three tiny solder points holding the shield, but the one under the board, on the right hand side, right next to the two capacitors that stand out from under the shield, has proven hard to unsolder. Is it OK to use metal tweezers to pull at the shield, or must I get some other material? Weller has a lot of miniature tools…

                        Q#2: Is this https://www.electrokit.com/produkt/el-lyt-smd-22uf-16v-105c-o4x5-4mm/ the correct SMD to be getting?

                        Q#3: When you say the SMDs measure correctly (or not), what do you measure them with? I haven’t had a voltmeter for a while, so if you can advise me, I’d be very grateful.

                        Venlig hilsen

                        Lennart

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