Beolink 7000 returns No contact

[lenhi]

I love my B&O and do not want to give it up, but I have this problem with the Beolink 7000; it starts the Beocenter and the Beogram 7000 and turns them off, as well as all the other functions, but when it comes to the programming and control functions, it returns No contact after five seconds. Is this a common problem, or is my Beocenter in need of something?

Location: Scania, Sweden

[filip_kbh]

Hi – it is a known issue. I presume you mean BeoSYSTEM 7000? In the Beolink 7000 there are two SMD caps that fail. They are not difficult to change but of course you need to know what you are doing.

Location: Copenhagen

[lenhi]

Not very encouraging, this: Beolink 7000 working/not working – (beoworld.org)https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/15030.aspx

, while this, on the other hand, just looks challenging; Beolink 7000 “No Contact” issue – (beoworld.org)

https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/28382.aspx

Location: Scania, Sweden

[skolesen]

As I recall from from recaping my two Beolink 7000 it is the two 22uF/16V SMD cap that need to be replaced.

 

You can get inspiration here:

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/3595/32375.aspx#32375

 

/steffen

Location: Hvidovre, Denmark

[lenhi]

Thank you for your respons, filip, and no, I have no idea what I am should be doing. Is there some soldering involved? Would you happen to have a blueprint of the Beolink? And yes, it is a BeoMASTER, sandsynligvis!

Regards

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

The battery pack needs to be changed, too, but that should be within my competence, I think

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

After removing the four screws at the back, lifting the glass, and finding the SMDs, I couldn’t figure out how to remove the metal shield where the SMAs stick up. Advice as to where and how much pressure should be applied, would be much appreciated. I reassembled the link, since I couldn’t find any description of this part of the procedure anywhere. Going out now, to try and find the perfect soldering pencil

Location: Scania, Sweden

[lenhi]

OK, so now I have a Weller soldering station and have taken the Beolink 7000 apart again. As far as I can see, there is one little drop of solder holding the metal shield together. So the plan is to melt this, pry loose the shield, and insert a couple of condensers. The excellent work description that Filip posted states that four condensers should be changed. But maybe I should just do those two. Can I get confirmation that I am on the right track? Thank you!

Location: Scania, Sweden

[filip_kbh]

You are on the right track. When I changed capacitors in mine, I changed all 4 or 5 caps but the only ones that were not measuring correctly were actually the two SMD caps. Remember to clean underneath. Also – there may be caps fluid under the chip that is next to the SMD caps, so give the chip’s legs a good clean with IPA.

Location: Copenhagen

[lenhi]

Thanks a lot! I really appreciate your talking me through this. I have now loosened three tiny solder points holding the shield, but the one under the board, on the right hand side, right next to the two capacitors that stand out from under the shield, has proven hard to unsolder. Is it OK to use metal tweezers to pull at the shield, or must I get some other material? Weller has a lot of miniature tools…

Q#2: Is this https://www.electrokit.com/produkt/el-lyt-smd-22uf-16v-105c-o4x5-4mm/ the correct SMD to be getting?

Q#3: When you say the SMDs measure correctly (or not), what do you measure them with? I haven’t had a voltmeter for a while, so if you can advise me, I’d be very grateful.

Venlig hilsen

Lennart

Location: Scania, Sweden

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