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Home Forums Product Discussion & Questions BeoLab Beolab 8000 turn off after some hours

Viewing 15 posts - 21 through 35 (of 35 total)
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  • #43226
    Prime
    BRONZE Member

    I see the IC1 and IC2 in your diagram. But in another scheme Ive seen, they were both called IC1? Do I need to replace both, or only the left one?

    #43227
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    That will work. You need a solder blow gun to remove the old one. Be careful to not rip off the solder pads from the PCB.

    Location: Stockholm
    #43228
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    You only need to change IC1

    Location: Stockholm
    #43229
    Prime
    BRONZE Member

    Left one?ย B0A3D9BA-7F8A-4F5F-83C2-59EF06AA1F25

    #43230
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    Yes, that is correct. Good luck!

    Location: Stockholm
    #43231
    Prime
    BRONZE Member

    Removed it. Waiting for the new parts.

     

    B4049E27-6C37-4C3B-A9AE-091DC20A1AA9

    #43232
    Prime
    BRONZE Member

    I installed it. It turns on but the speaker is unusable. A lot of noise is coming from it even when there is nothing plugged in and it only is powered on.

    did I miss something?

    F470DE39-5B2F-47EE-A1D0-A9BAB485C315

    #43233
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    That was bad news! It looks ok. Strange that you get noise from it because this circuit only control the auto on detection.

    Location: Stockholm
    #43234
    franjo3000
    BRONZE Member

    Hello all, I am new member, and I have a pair of Beolab 8000s with a 11xxxx serial number of which one I believe has the same issue as discussed above:

    • when I use it with a Beolink cable, it turns on (and off) just fine
    • when I use the LINE in, it works fine for 2-3 hours, and then turns off. It does not turn on again. (only if I change to Beolink..) When I remove the wall plug and wait until the next day, it works fine again for 2-3 hours…

    With turning on I mean that the light switches from red to green and it plays music.

    I have the disassembled speaker lying on my desk already as I am doing the foam replacement (thanks to this great forum!).

    I don’t have electronic testing equipment other than a good multimeter.

    Do you think I should be going for the IC1, too? Or any other part to consider?

    Thank you!

    #43235
    marexy
    SILVER Member

    Usuly at that error there is a problem at one or more caps.

    Noice or humm problems are related to bad IC.

    Try to change RELE as some times rele is also bad inside.

    all the best ๐Ÿ™‚

    #43236
    franjo3000
    BRONZE Member

    what do you mean by RELE?

    #43237
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    I think @marexy means the โ€˜relayโ€™.


    @marexy
    : which caps do you consider suspicious?

    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    #43238
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    Hi @franjo3000

    Your problem certainly sounds exactly like the same problem I had. I bet you need to change IC1 and this will fix the problem. I used an IC1 chip from an old unit but earlier in the thread is some alternative you can buy. You need a solder blow gun to remove the old IC, be careful to not rip off the solder pads.

    Good luck!

    Carl

     

    Location: Stockholm
    #43239
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    @Carljh

    Thanks for this info.

    I have a BeoLab 8000 that also has a problem when connected via RCA.

    It sometimes does switch on (mostly not), but only when I put the input volume high.

    Question

    • Could this also be caused by a bad IC1?
    Location: The Netherlands
    Favourite Product: BeoSound 9000
    #43240
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    @KolfMAKER

    Hard to say but the IC1 belong to the circuit that turn on the amplifier when the input signal reach a threshold level.
    It may solve your problem if you swap the IC1.
    Carl

    Location: Stockholm
Viewing 15 posts - 21 through 35 (of 35 total)
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