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Home Forums Product Discussion & Questions BeoLab Beolab 8000 turn off after some hours

Viewing 15 posts - 21 through 35 (of 35 total)
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  • #43226
    Prime
    BRONZE Member

    I see the IC1 and IC2 in your diagram. But in another scheme Ive seen, they were both called IC1? Do I need to replace both, or only the left one?

    #43227
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    That will work. You need a solder blow gun to remove the old one. Be careful to not rip off the solder pads from the PCB.

    Location: Stockholm
    #43228
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    You only need to change IC1

    Location: Stockholm
    #43229
    Prime
    BRONZE Member

    Left one? B0A3D9BA-7F8A-4F5F-83C2-59EF06AA1F25

    #43230
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    Yes, that is correct. Good luck!

    Location: Stockholm
    #43231
    Prime
    BRONZE Member

    Removed it. Waiting for the new parts.

     

    B4049E27-6C37-4C3B-A9AE-091DC20A1AA9

    #43232
    Prime
    BRONZE Member

    I installed it. It turns on but the speaker is unusable. A lot of noise is coming from it even when there is nothing plugged in and it only is powered on.

    did I miss something?

    F470DE39-5B2F-47EE-A1D0-A9BAB485C315

    #43233
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    That was bad news! It looks ok. Strange that you get noise from it because this circuit only control the auto on detection.

    Location: Stockholm
    #43234
    franjo3000
    BRONZE Member

    Hello all, I am new member, and I have a pair of Beolab 8000s with a 11xxxx serial number of which one I believe has the same issue as discussed above:

    • when I use it with a Beolink cable, it turns on (and off) just fine
    • when I use the LINE in, it works fine for 2-3 hours, and then turns off. It does not turn on again. (only if I change to Beolink..) When I remove the wall plug and wait until the next day, it works fine again for 2-3 hours…

    With turning on I mean that the light switches from red to green and it plays music.

    I have the disassembled speaker lying on my desk already as I am doing the foam replacement (thanks to this great forum!).

    I don’t have electronic testing equipment other than a good multimeter.

    Do you think I should be going for the IC1, too? Or any other part to consider?

    Thank you!

    #43235
    marexy
    SILVER Member

    Usuly at that error there is a problem at one or more caps.

    Noice or humm problems are related to bad IC.

    Try to change RELE as some times rele is also bad inside.

    all the best 🙂

    #43236
    franjo3000
    BRONZE Member

    what do you mean by RELE?

    #43237
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    I think @marexy means the ‘relay’.


    @marexy
    : which caps do you consider suspicious?

    Location: The Netherlands
    #43238
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    Hi @franjo3000

    Your problem certainly sounds exactly like the same problem I had. I bet you need to change IC1 and this will fix the problem. I used an IC1 chip from an old unit but earlier in the thread is some alternative you can buy. You need a solder blow gun to remove the old IC, be careful to not rip off the solder pads.

    Good luck!

    Carl

     

    Location: Stockholm
    #43239
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member

    @Carljh

    Thanks for this info.

    I have a BeoLab 8000 that also has a problem when connected via RCA.

    It sometimes does switch on (mostly not), but only when I put the input volume high.

    Question

    • Could this also be caused by a bad IC1?
    Location: The Netherlands
    #43240
    carljh
    BRONZE Member

    @KolfMAKER

    Hard to say but the IC1 belong to the circuit that turn on the amplifier when the input signal reach a threshold level.
    It may solve your problem if you swap the IC1.
    Carl

    Location: Stockholm
Viewing 15 posts - 21 through 35 (of 35 total)
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