Beogram 1202 or 1203?

[Martin Smith]

Hi all, I’m new on here and know very little about Hi-fi or Bang and Olufsen other than they were the coolest looking systems in the 1970s. I’m now looking for a system to play my old albums on from that era and there are a few Beogram 1202 and 1203s around on eBay. I read on here and on other B&O forums that the 1202 is far superior and that the 1203 was more cheaply made and a far less sophisticated bit of kit. The dilemma is that there is a 1203 recently serviced and ‘capacitors replaced’ and also a few 1202s in good superficial condition but without evidence of  recent maintenance. My question (finally) is, is  a recently serviced and maintained 1203 a better bet than a 1202 with an unknown recent history? I know it’s a difficult question without knowing the machines but any general advice would be great, thanks, Martin

[matador]

Hi Martin and welcome to Beoworld.

If you’re between the 1202 and 1203, it’s certainly because you like the dot platter like I do. Just know that the 3000 with a more common but better platter is from the same family.

1203 is a cheap 1202 indeed. As far as I know and I can tell (I own both), it’s mostly about the base that is die-cast and heavy in the 1202 and just a sheet of steel, therefore lighter, in the 1203. The result is on stability and shock insulation, better in the 1202.

About the change of capacitors: Beograms from that serie have very little electronics. It’s basically power to motor and Diamond to line-out (two separate circuit). If capacitors have been replaced, I don’t believe it will make any night and day difference or anything that can’t be made by anybody out there. So to me not a big lever.

What’s important and a little bit more complicated is the overhaul of the motor that implies tearing it appart and lubricating it with a special procedure (oil infusion of the sinter bronze bearings). That will make a difference If and only IF it has been well made and with the right oil. Not that easy. And also the pulley (can’t remenber the right name) that can be noisy if the rubber has hardened.

So in a nutshell and given you can’t try any of the decks. If you can talk to the seller and ask a few question about the restauration procedure and you feel confident after a little bit of reading here on BW, on what he says, go for it whatever deck it is.

If you feel like work on it by yourself, go for the best aesthetical condition deck. Work will be the same on both decks.

Also make sure all the commands (lift, turn, 33, 45,…) work well. Its a delicate system and sometimes its complicated.
I can’t remember if they are exactly the same or they differ sligthly but anyway they need to be carefully inspected.

All this from memory. No doubt people will soon confirm or correct.

Beautiful decks alls.

Good luck.

• This reply was modified 2 days, 5 hours ago by matador.

Location: Paris France

[Martin Smith]

A fantastic response, thanks for your time, that’s a real help. Yes, I like the look and thanks for adding some more detail as to why the 1202 is better.

I suppose it’s one thing to say something has been ‘serviced’ but it depends on who did it and what they did. If possible a pre-purchase visit and a demo would be a good idea.

On a more basic level do the two actually sound different to each other? It will go in a small room and never be on really loud.

Thanks again Martin.

 

[Martin Smith]

Just discovered that the 1202 was also rebuilt, this one by Quality Dream Audio Ltd who look like a pretty impressive outfit online. Anyone used their services or bought from them?

[Author]

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