this is a bad picture taken with a phone

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Yes, but where does it come from in the actual turntable - from which PCB? I understand that there was some confusion about this.

Here is the picture. You can see the hole of the photosensor and the small plastic box. Login to view image

Hi Loris,

Yes, I remember changing this lamp (OIL2) to an LED, and my notes state that I used a 1KOhm 1W resistor to drop the 22.8VDC to 3VDC for the LED.

On this circuit, it doesn't matter which side you put the resistor, whatever is most convenient for you.

It was not an especially difficult job, otherwise I would have made more notes on it.

No drilling or any other special work was required.

You can see a picture of this job, if you go back to the first page of this thread, to the 2nd article - March 09-2008 12:05pm. See the picture with the red circles for lubrication, and to the left of the tangential arm, you'll see the 1KOhm resistor and the white plastic shield which I added. That's the exact job.

Menahem

I've found a small lamp 25v-50 ma that should fit. I bought it in a shop near me and I payed it 1 euro. Seems a christmas tree lamp, and maybe it actually is🙂

linklink

This is the new lamp in the enclosure ( waiting for the glue to dry ) and the old burnt lamp with the hardened glue around the wires

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Loris,

24V LED's:

No 24V LED's available - if you consider that an LED is in fact a diode, then you can understand why the chances of ever having a 24V Diode are pretty near impossible.

The first diodes were Germanium, in the 1950's and had a Vf (Forward Voltage) drop of about 0.3-0.5V. Silicon diodes, developed later, were more stable, with much less leakage, but had higher Vf's - about 0.7 - 1.2V. The higher the Vf, the hotter the diode, and correspondingly the greater the waste of electricity.

Today with the push to run everything on batteries, and make the devices last longer while running on batteries, technology has pushed the average Vf on Silicon diodes down to 0.4-0.8V, exactly the opposite of what you'd like to see on a LED with a Vf of 24V. That imaginary 24V LED would be a toaster with the heat generated!

So, I think that we're going to see LED's drop their Vf even further down from the current Vf's of 1.8V-3.3V, to less than 1V in the future.

Glueing the leads:

I sprayed the inside of the black housing with silicon spray to make it slippery. I then put the LED's leads in and filled the cavity with hot-glue. That way, the hot-glue dries solid into the form of a block, but I can easily remove it if I need to, without resorting to invasive or destructive methods.

Menahem

yachadm wrote:

Glueing the leads:

Nice idea. I thought about hot glue but I switched to paper glue in stick. It's a paste I could easily put inside the cavity and I guess I'll be able to easily remove it. Just waiting for it to dry before fitting it in the 6000 🙂

.... and the light was..... the lamp worked.... but the carriage didn't 🙁 I had to work on the "adjustment of shutter". I moved a little the "eccentric B" ( page 4-7 of the manual) and then for the first time the carriage worked 🙂

Loris

Excellent, congratulations!

There are of course a lot of other adjustments and they all should probably be checked in correct order when parts have been replaced. But, if you have now managed to get it to track correctly, and the arm stays very near parallel to the sensor arm while playing, I'd just let it be for a while and enjoy playing some records 🙂