Very very nice - glad to see you got it working! Now it's time for the other one 🙂

the other one has only the connection terminal broken so it's easy to fix :)

Hi Franck,

thank you for your very detailed analysis of the fault! 🤒

It helped me to solve a similar problem with a LCS9000 / BeoLab3500 i bought.

It also didn't react to any IR command but the two touch fields on the display reacted when touched.

The same filterering capacitor on Pin 3 was dead, the voltage at the IC was also not straight but flattering around. After replacing the 22µF / 6.3V with a new SMD Capacitor it worked very well.

Now there's just one problem left in the audio part with a crackling sound but i guess it's also a dead SMD capacitor.

Franck,

Your post is a very good description of the test process and repair of the LC2 and as you know these capacitors are quite a common problem.

Hello all,

I have an LC2 that gave up after a few days of use. It was on the ceiling and connected to a hanging lamp. There is an issue with this particular power outlet, which seems to have affected the LC2. This issue will have to be fixed by an electrician, but I was wondering if anybody would have an idea what’s wrong with the LC2 and if I could fix the dimmer.

I took it apart, the fuse is okay. No signs of any burning or capacitor leaks. I connected the mains and a lamp, but no sign of power coming out. When I touch the outgoing power cable connecting screw with a voltage meter, it does not light up. The funny thing is, when I disconnect the lamp and touch the outgoing power cable connecting screw with a voltage meter, the voltage meter does light up. So when no lamp is connected, it seems to be doing something. Does anybody have an idea what this could be?

Thank you very much in advance for your assistance!

Hi,

the described 'measurement is correct and just normal:

When the lamp is connected to the output connectors there's nearly a short between 'N' and 'L' by the lamp, so you won't get a readout on your multimeter.

If no lamp connected there's no 'short' between the 'N' and 'L' lines and the high impedance of the multimeter creates the voltage you can see now. The current that's running into the multimeter is so low that nothing will happen to you and your multimeter.

The same is for your small 25 W lamp: The LC2 needs at least 40W to work as designed!

So to test your LC2 you should 'load' it with 40W or more.

Hi

Can any send link where to find service manula for LC2 ?

Thanks :)

Everywhere those damn dead capacitors which cause trouble because they all use the cheap 85°C ones instead of the slightly more expensive 105°C capacitors.