Hi,

You will need to open the Beogram into the service position in order to get to the belt.  That means removing the platter, releasing the three suspension springs and removing two small screws under the left side of the deck (so the deck can be lifted). 

Much care must be taken in putting the Beogram into the service position as the deck lid can hit the tonearm if you aren't careful.  I don't recommend doing it if you haven't gone over the service manual.

Here is a post for a Beogram 8002 Repair, the turntable service position is the same on the Beogram 8000.

Once opened up, you will have to guide the position detector out of its mounting slot so you can change the belt.

-sonavor

Or it could be that the bulb underneath the control panel (manual << and >>) has moved slightly or is dead or weak. 

I think the belt is not at fault here.

EDIT: I should have read better 😳, sorry.

Under the counterweight is a teflon sheet.
This was introduced to protect the tip of the tonearm (counterweight-) height adjustment screw etc. from wear, particularly during transport.
Unfortunately, the adjustment screw makes an indentation in the sheet which, when deep enough, will actually catch, grab and hold the
pointy tip of the screw. This will usually cause the tonearm to stick a bit while the lowering solenoid releases it and then suddenly drop
onto the record.

Remove the teflon sheet and readjust the height.

The servo motor belt works best if a little slack.
It must not be tight but of course it shouldn't slip either.
If too tight, the servo motor will not run freely enough on the low voltages from moving slowly (playing etc.) but only
move in large chunks (when the offset is large and the correcting voltage very high).
The belts found on Ebay seems to be far too tight. I have replaced many, I have a glass jar almost filled to the edge with
Ebay a.o. belts that was "guaranteed to fit"...
If yours is still the original belt - and it isn't slipping - leave it.

Martin

Martin,

Thank you. I left the original belt alone. Seems fine.

Best Regards,

Larry

Larry,

you don't hang around do you?  Good to hear it's up and running for now.  I hope it lasts.  a recap may be necessary in the future (from member 'Dillen') and possibly an upgraded tacho disc (also from 'Dillen').

Dave.

Hi Dave,

You guys are so good,   I don't have to hang around too long to solve my Beo problems! 

By the way, what is supposed to keep those W shaped wire pieces under the chassis in place that the suspension hooks grab on to?   They were giving me fits after they dropped out of place.

Thanks again,

Larry    

The W-clips usually stay in place as long as you keep the subchassis standing on the bottom plate and the C-clips are fitted.
If you give the C-clips a drop of contact glue or similar glue that sets a little flexible to hold them to the plastic insert, they
won't fall out when you lift the subchassis back up to the leaf springs.
That's how I like to do it anyways.

Martin

Martin,

Perfect, I knew there had to be a trick!  I had no idea that little piece of wire is what holds the entire 

suspension... Simple, yet ingenious (of course)!

thank you,

larry