Beogram 4002 Restoration
47 replies
A minor improvement would be to add some support between the ends of the “U” (i.e. make it structurally more like an “O”). This would reduce the chance that the plinth breaks due to its own mass during a hard impact. I’m always a bit surprised by how brutal shipping can be. When I pack something for shipping, I imagine it being dropped off a moving vehicle, then sat on by a toddler. ? GlitchHi Glitch, Yes, shipping can be brutal! I was contemplating doing a few drop and bump tests but I didn’t want to destroy some perfectly good packaging (the honeycomb cardboard isn’t the cheapest) haha. I will take on board your suggestion and incorporate a support between the open end of the plinth by gluing in a spacer.
I’ll check the dimensions of the 4000 this weekend and post pics.
I have received a great reception to offering the new plinths for sale. Over the past few weeks I have been busy making and shipping them off to people in the US, Denmark, UK, France and Germany. As such my restoration has been taken a back seat for a little bit. Here are a few photos.
I had the chassis and back parts sand blasted to remove all the old paint. The surface finish was quite rough on the inside so I had it wet blasted to bring back some shine. I then primed and painted it black. I used a spray can which was quite difficult to get a good finish but I got there in the end. On my next restoration I will use a proper spray gun as it will be way easier and get a better result.
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I had the chassis and back parts sand blasted to remove all the old paint. The surface finish was quite rough on the inside so I had it wet blasted to bring back some shine. I then primed and painted it black. I used a spray can which was quite difficult to get a good finish but I got there in the end. On my next restoration I will use a proper spray gun as it will be way easier and get a better result.
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Here are some photos of the 4000c style plinths I have been making for people. Each plinth is made from one length of timber so that the grain matches and flows around the whole plinth. From what I have seen of the plinths on the 4000c from B&O, I would say that my quality is as good, if not better than theirs. There is a lot of attention to detail on these. All joints are tight, edges crisp etc.
Here are some photos of the 4000c style plinths. The joint itself is slightly different, as well as the addition of splines. The joints are so tiny.
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Here are some photos of the 4000c style plinths. The joint itself is slightly different, as well as the addition of splines. The joints are so tiny.
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Well, that die-cast bottom chassis looks pristine now!
I measured my Beogram 4000 plinth and I get:
485 x 345 x 25mm
I'm not a carpenter so definitely verify that.
I measured my Beogram 4000 plinth and I get:
485 x 345 x 25mm
I'm not a carpenter so definitely verify that.
Exceptional work Christian. I came here for the restoration and stayed for the plinths. I've had my 4002 for about 2 years. It came without a plinth so I made a quick replacement. Have been looking for something more true to the OEM. Yours look beautiful. Did not see cost. Should I contact you directly?
Thanks, Calvin
Gig Harbor, Wa. USA
Thanks, Calvin
Gig Harbor, Wa. USA
Just a quick update. The restoration has been on hold for a while as I waited for a screen printing screen to arrive. I am going to try to screen print the writing on the chassis and aluminium strip on the lid. I’ve never done it before but I thought I’d give it a crack. From my understanding, the Beograms that have been officially restored have the writing on the underside of the chassis replaced by stickers. To me, for such an expensive upgrade, it looks kind of cheap. So I am going the ‘overkill’ route and trying to screen print it.
As a reminder, this is what it looked like when I got it.
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This is what the chassis looks like after sandblasting and painting.
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I made up an image with all the various text that I am planning on restoring at some point and popped it all on the one screen. Ideally, I will make a screen which has all the writing laid out properly so I don’t have to realign and print the various text in stages but can do it all in one go. But this is essentially a bit of a trial run.
I didn’t have a squeegee so I whipped one up.
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The first try worked really well. But when I tried printing the second ‘play - transport’ text it smudged so I will have to start again. I will give it a try again tomorrow.
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I will post some photos as soon as I manage to pull off a good print. And then I can start the reassembling process.
As a reminder, this is what it looked like when I got it.
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This is what the chassis looks like after sandblasting and painting.
Login to view image
I made up an image with all the various text that I am planning on restoring at some point and popped it all on the one screen. Ideally, I will make a screen which has all the writing laid out properly so I don’t have to realign and print the various text in stages but can do it all in one go. But this is essentially a bit of a trial run.
I didn’t have a squeegee so I whipped one up.
Login to view image
The first try worked really well. But when I tried printing the second ‘play - transport’ text it smudged so I will have to start again. I will give it a try again tomorrow.
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I will post some photos as soon as I manage to pull off a good print. And then I can start the reassembling process.
So I managed to do a good print today! The photos are a bit blurry but in real life it turned out quite crisp.
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That is a really nice result! And great to see your persistence in restoring these decks to perfections. You got some skills Christian.
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:
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