Clean the track rod that the laser block slides on using isopropanol (tapehead cleaner) and a soft cloth. Step to outer tracks on a 70min+ CD to access the inner part. Clean also the tiny bearing ball at the left side bracket (a couple of screws to go there). Give the ball and track rod a little sewing machine oil, step the laser block through the full travel a couple of times (by inserting a 70min+ CD and skipping tracks forward over and over). Add another drop of oil to the rod. If it's very dirty and lots of dust and dirt are pushed out and accumulated at the ends of the blocks travel you may need to clean again.

Martin

hi martin ,

how to take off that reversed little board ? is there any easier way other than solder that white plastic angled jumper out ?  regarding that white poti , should i turn it clockwise or anti clockwise ? sorry for my ignorance .

david

The laser current setting shouldn't be touched unless MEASURED wrong according to the service manual and compared to what is stated on the label on the laser block itself. I don't think the fault in your deck is caused by a wrong setting of laser current.

Dealing with the laser current adjustment without proper means of measuring would be playing with the laser blocks life.
The adjustment is very hard to set right, it's very sensitive to the slightest rotation
and the adjustment range is far too wide.
Setting the current 50% too high (corresponding to maybe 10 degress of rotation
on the trimmer!) and the, otherwise extremely robust, laser will go black
in 10 seconds and won't ever emit any light again.
I suggest you leave the laser current trimmer alone unless you are absolutely sure what you are doing.

You can replace all the capacitors, I agree they can go bad and I've replaced
thousands myself but I doubt that it will cure this particular fault. 

Did you read my previous post ? I suggest you try this. It's far more likely to have accumulated dust and lubrication has dried rather than an adjustment going out.

Martin

hi martin ,

before reading your latest reply , i had finished the cleaning and oil-adding works last night according to your advise . moreover , i had also adjusted that little white porti . the experience and the result is really CRAZY !

even after cleaning and adding oil to the shaft and the ball , the CD50 still have jumping problem in almost every 5 seconds of each tracks . i opened it up again , mildly turn the white trimmer clockwise for 2 - 5 degree , jumping problem almost gone except one to two tracks , but i can hear "chit-chit-chit " sound in the music i play . then , i turned it backward to -5 or -6 while playing . "chit-chit" sound gone . i tried other CDs , jump issue solved and no strange noise heard .

i closed the player up and tried it with other CDs and even CDR i burnt , ALL IS FINE !

i have just checked your latest message , sweat is coming down from my head . anyway , my CD50 is playing well and i am happy now .

DEAR MARTIN , THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH !!

regards

david

Hello all

Please forgive my lack of knowledge on CD players and poor German translation skills.

I just bought a CD 5500 (my fist piece of B&O equipment!) which had the ususal reading problems, fixed by the capacitor switch suggested above.  When I first got it the cd tray wouldn't close fully as one of the white plastic tray's rubber mountings had snapped and so it was hanging down - I fixed it with a highly technical paperclip.

Can anybody tell me if the rubber mountings are still available anywhere, as presumably they affect the laser alignment?

 Many thanks

Tom

hi martin ,

i am very happy to let you know that my beogram cd 5500 is fixed  according to your instruction . i have replaced almost all caps from time to time . after replacing c13 (4700uf) and c18 (2200uf) recently , all strange noise are gone . thank you very much for your teaching .

regards

david

Sorry for buttin' in this late! 🙂 I have successfully renovated a BG CD50, and would like to do the "Track 0 switch" modification. Will a 10uF 16V cap suffice? And how and where exactly should it be soldered for correct polarity? Please refer to the enclosed picture! And thank you!

Ups, i dont remember which pin is what signal ... i did it with a multimeter. Check the pins which are activated when Track 0 is reached and measure the polarity. I think, one pin is ground, identical to the frame of the CD50, the other one is a pull up resistor to 5V... but, check it please.

A10uF 16V cap is ok.

Thank you, Martin!

Please excuse my ignorance - and polarity? Minus on cap to ground (or the other way round...)? 😮

Hi,

Have a question for my CD50.

Power on works, opens the door and when entering a CD the player shuts off. Any advise what could be wrong with this?????

Thanks,

Markus