Hi

I´m new to the forum and i have a Beogram CD5500 with a problem that  is:

The player doesn´t read the CD´s and when i enter service mode in the arm test 1  i can´t get the arm to move , i already have a new laser part but i don´t want to mount it , because i´m affraid to fry it , my PCB30 board is older than the one in the pic because it doesn´t have the numbers and the spindle motor is the 4 wire coil system, If anyone could help i would be very thankfull.

Thanks

Hi

Find out why the arm didn´t move , the foilcable that  connects to pcb30 was faulty , now i can do all the tests . arm moving , focus and spindle rotate except , test nº4 the radial search doesn´t work , also the player isn´t reading the tracks , when i insert a cd it can´t read the tracks , what can it be , the capacitors? I´ve measured them and apparently they aren´t faulty.

Any help will be welcome

Thanks

99% of the dead caps measured will have almost their capacity... but they work as resistors, the isolation is gone.

I would never use a cap twice... especially when these parts cost 5 cents.

Hi

Thank you for your reply.

i´m going to change the caps and see what happens.

Thanks

hi martin ,

happy new year .

i have replaced a 47uf cap to my beogram CD 5500 as you taught . the  5500 now can play every type of CDs normally !! thank you . but for sometimes (once or twice a week ), it will shut down by itself suddenly after a loud strange noise (sound like BLOKKKK , BLOKKKKK). if i restart it , it will play normal again for a whole night .

do you have any idea on this ?

regards

david

Hello David,

this sounds like a defect in the power supply.

If it was the laser controller, it would go into standby quietly, probably no sound and it would simply stop reading.

The power supply is on the upper mainboard, i would look for cold spots around the black steel cooler. Steel and mainboards have different expansion, so the cooler can rip off parts from the boards.

If you find some yellow/brown stuff on one of the caps, replace them. They are old enough for replacement.

I would replace first: C102, C110, C202, C210 = 100uF 25V. They are responsible for the output filter, if they fail, you would hear probably a loud PLOPP and a fast standby.

Martin

hi ,

thanks again for your help . i will try to do it soon .

by the way , i am trying also to replace cap for a beogram CD50 , which cap is playing the role of 2103 of the CD5500 ? 

you have mentioned before about the 0 track switch and should add a cap to it . i have the service manual now , where is it ?

thank you for your help .

regards

david

The CD50 is complete different... and i dont have the CD50 manual, i just replaced all caps and it worked ;)

I just can tell you, it's the upper board and it becomes really hot. The rear is so full with caps, no cooling air and absolutly no space, i saw this brown stuff on the caps and replaced them all. With miniature types there is now so much space available ...

The switch is in front of the drive, right on the top, you will see two wires to this switch.

Have a look here, a CD50 has the same problems...

hi martin ,

almost all caps were replaced for the upper servo board of beogram cd 50 (exept the ones inside the little reversed board , it's quite hard to access ) , the skiping problem still exist . when i play a cd , after 2-3 seconds of the song , it will skip 5-6 seconds , then play normal . if i go to another song , it also skip at openning of the song . if i just let the cd plays , it will play ok . do you think i should also replace the caps in the lower decoder board ? i think they are also dried up . please advise . thank you in advance .

david

Hi David,

i think i have also removed the caps in the small reversed board, do it 100%.

The more you replace the better. Replace the caps on the power supply, that should also help a little bit.

The laser current needed some adjustment, i made a mark on the potentiometer and changed it a very tiny bit. It is the white poti in the middle of the board. But take care, make the mark with a pencil to have the original adjustment.

Martin