So, we'll need to dismantle the speaker and see if we can really wash the fabric without ruining anything. First, the two mylar straps will have to come off if you're lucky to still have them. Each of them is held by a triangular plastic block in the rear, fixed with one screw. Loosen it and you can slide the straps off over the speaker ends. Clean them and try not to break them.

Then, you can remove the back shell of the speaker. There is one screw in the bottom of the connector bay, two more under the strap holders and six around the speaker perimeter in these models. Then you can just lift off the back shell. There is a foam gasket, so it can be pretty tight (the "line" will still stay fixed on the front baffle, pry with your fingers in the groove just above it).

Once you have the back loose, peek under it and see how the wires from the connector panel to the crossover go. They have just enough length that you can unplug them from the panel, and then lift the shell completely off. Note the positions of the damping blocks so you can put them back properly later.

(models like RL60.2 which also have a DIN connector in the corner may require disconnecting it now as well, I can't remember.)

Now you see all the innards. Make good notes of where everything goes - preferably take a good picture, which I obviously forgot - and then start removing things. Felt pen markings across the perimeter of the drivers make it easy to replace them correctly and in the same position.

Otherwise it's easy, just screws, brackets and more foam & rubber gaskets. The two drivers seem otherwise identical, but the gaskets are different, so don't mix them.

Now would be an excellent time to recap the crossover. I'm not going to do that now - but since RL6000 service manual isn't on site, here's a parts list - for this pair, anyway... Check the solderings as well - these were all fine.

• 22 uF / 63 V (which I would upgrade to 100V)
• 15 uF / 100 V
• 5.6 uF / 100 V  (two of these)
• (and a 3.3 uF / 100 V plastic cap, which probably won't need replacing)
  

Back to the actual business at hand. There's still stuff to remove - namely the actual red (or silver...) line. This model has just four screws around the perimeter and then that part of the frame lifts off. Now we have a great opportunity to clean the dust from these otherwise impossible grooves!

Then, we can see what we can do with the fabric. It is glued around the perimeter of the front baffle, under the straps, and on the "Bang & Olufsen" script so that it shows through. Apart from the glue, there should be nothing left that could be damaged by water (don't do this with the smaller models that have, I believe, a chipboard front!).

Luckily, the glue doesn't seem to mind water at all so we can splash all we want. I first tried lukewarm water, but the stains didn't come off, so I decided to try my luck with mild dishwashing liquid. It worked better, helped with a soft brush.

What makes this difficult is that at least this black cloth will look very clean as long as it remains wet, so you don't know right away whether you were successful. Also, rinse well so that the last puddle of dirty water won't leave a stain once it's evaporated.

I managed to resist the temptation to use a hair dryer in case the moisture and heat together would finally dissolve the glue. Here's the dirtier front cover while still wet.

Let the front covers dry properly - moisture trapped inside the speaker can't be a good thing - and then inspect the results.

Mine are still a tad damp, so I'll return with the assembly process and final results after I've run some errands meanwhile.

***

Back from shopping, it's been almost four hours since I first started, and motivation is slightly diminishing. Some adjustment oil is therefore necessary.

The covers are now dry, so it's back to everyone's favourite from all service manuals: "assembly is the reverse of dissassembly."

Install the "Red Line" frame, and then position the drivers and the crossover back where they were. Install all brackets and replug the wires. If any of the connectors have become loose, pinch them a little with pliers before reinserting. A high-endist would replace the wires and solder them on without connectors, but I can't be bothered. Also, squeeze the wires back between the plastic pin holders so they won't have a chance of rattling about at high volume.

Here's one I prepared earlier (don't you love that one as well?):

Position the damping blocks where they were and reinstall the back cover. Make sure the foam gasket slides in as it was and doesn't get crumbled. Tighten the screws, going from one position to the opposite like you were reinstalling a cylinder head. This will make you feel good.

Oh yes, don't forget to reconnect the input wires to the connector panel before tightening everything 👍