Hi Geoff,

I have the same generation 6000 which is said to 'run hot' compared to the 8000 and even after higher volumes running for hours it never gets hot enough that you cannot touch the metal fins.... So I would say it sounds as though something is not performing as it should causing yours to run hotter.

Now, If you are technically minded you could try looking at the following thread which describes opening up and fixing a BM8000 that ran hot in one of its channels... not sure if this is the same issue... But anyway here it is...

http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/thread/84163.aspx

Well I'm sure it will be worth fixing what ever the issue is..... I can't say how much I enjoy the rich , smooth sound of my system....

BTW... this isn't the 8000 system that was sold on ebay in OZ  this week is it? If it is.... well done! 

Hello

I have a BM8000 & a BM6000 and they both ran very hot even at zero volume before a capacitor change and a setup in accordance with the service manual.  The no-load current and output offset amplifer settings on the main amplifer boards are the important ones to get right and you will need a DVM because they need to be set to 18mV and +-5mV respectively.  Since the cap change and setup they hardly generate any heat at all, even when left on for hours.  The main amplifier boards are quite awkward to remove from the BM8000 so unless you feel comfortable doing a job like this then leave if to a technician who a) has the service manual and b) has preferrably done one of these before...

Kindest regards

Richard

I own both 6000 and 8000. They are being used on a daily basis and are recently serviced by Dillen.

The BM6000 runs hotter than the BM8000 but you can put your hand on it without the risk of getting burned.

The BM8000 will stay about the half of a BM6000 even after playing for a few hours.

My Beomaster 8000 blew fuses and took 240 watts! It should take 30-40 watts only!

It sounds like it needs a service before it gets worse. Dillen here can supply special made cap kits with clear install instructions but you need to be able to use a soldering iron or know somebody who can do it for you.

Thanks everyone for all of your contributions. 

It seems that there is an overwhelming vote in favour of a relatively cool heat sink under normal operating conditions so there is certainly something wrong with this unit.  Now that I know, it will be fixed in due course.  I also have a BM6000 and while it does run warm, it never feels as if it is going to be able to fry eggs for breakfast.  I will use that one as a reference and aim to get the 8000 to operate even cooler.

I will be tackling this job myself as I get a great deal of satisfaction from taking non working B&O models and getting them back into useful condition.  This will be my tenth Beomaster and while there is very little room left on my shelves, I will have to find somewhere to display this monster unit.  After all, I have waited nearly 25 years to get one.  I remember seeing it in the shop when it first appeared, being captivated by its beautiful appearance and totally disappointed when I found that the price tag represented a half a years salary.

To soundchoice70, your detective work was correct and I did get this collection off Ebay last week.  It seemed impossible to think that one could pick up one of the B&O flagship collections for so little.  With the Beomaster not far from working properly, the BC9000 now basically working again after a fuse and belt replacement and the BG8002 sitting there just waiting for a good clean up and service, I have plenty to keep me busy for a while and the results I know will be brilliant.  What is perhaps more important is that here on BeoWorld, there are many people who regularly donate their time and knowledge and with this resource, my project is sure to be a success.  I had already read Rick Jansen's brilliant set of opening up details before the unit had arrived home and that was a very good start. 

Thanks again for your help everyone

Geoff 

Ha!

Great deal... last I saw it it was only AUD127.50 or something like that.. including CDX and M150, CX100 speakers.... was so tempted... but the thought of shipping it all here to Singapore and not knowing what (if anything) was working stopped me..... oh and who could forget of course the huge shipping bill! But looks like it could have been worth it tho...

Well I hope that you can get it all back in tip top condition... after waiting so long you are sure to enjoy it!

Just an update

Did two things today, first tested the BM6000 and found that the heat sink temperature only went up about 15°C.  I could put my hand on it quite comfortably.

Second, dismantled the BM8000 to get access to the amplifier boards to set the no load currents.  These were way off mark, the worst being around 250mV, so I reset them as close as I could get to 18mV.  Next time round, I'll take the amp boards out and replace the pots because they are now very unstable.  The end result is that the heat sinks are now running with barely a 5 to 10°C increase and the power draw has gone down from 80W to 42W.  It cetainly does feel cooler than the BM6000 so your advice was correct.

Took out a lot of dust in the process and she's looking much better all ready.  The dismantling and reassembly wasn't anywhere near as complex as I expected so my confidence is high to do a proper job after I source some spare parts.  By the way, it looks as if someone has had a good go at the caps already.

Thanks again for putting me on the right track, it looks as if another Beomaster has been saved from the scrap yard.  I'll definitely be keeping this one.

Regards

Geoff 

Yes, those idle current trimmers are often past their exp. date. and will easily affect your electric bill.

They don't go out of adjustment, they go bad. Sometimes you can adjust back and forth, eventually breaking through oxidation, duse etc. to find a spot where it looks fine but that's just until the Beomaster has been moved around or gets warm. The trimmers oxidize and develop intermittent faults, sometimes even fall apart physically.

They are cheap components, replace them and readjust. Do one channel at a time and do the DC offset ones too while you are at it. You will be surprised at the difference, the adjustments will be very smooth.

The Beomaster 6000 has exactly the same problems, actually all 1970's and 80's Beomasters with discretely built output stages have.

The Beomaster 6000 will have a very warm spot on the bottom plate, that's normal. It's cooling fins will also feel slightly hotter than the BM8000 but that's mainly because of the power supply regulators heat sink at the right side. Similarly, the BM8000 will feel warm at the top of the glass panel where heat escapes through a grill. The BM8000 will keep it's cooling fins at room temperature even if playing at "normal levels" and definitely if idle. The Beomaster 6000 likewise, apart from the right side as mentioned, where it will become "pleasantly handwarm".

Martin