joeyboygolf wrote:

evman140 wrote:

My BeoMaster left the factory with only one of the two screws. I had to go down to the local hardware store to find a replacement. The replacement is a No. 1 Phillips panhead screw.

AFAIK they all left the factory with one screw! It is only there to stop the pcb from sliding into the release position.

Well now I am double sure that my PCB will not work its way out! 😂

Thank you once again. 🙂

If any of you have a damaged 4500 I really encourage doing this, you will be very happy with the result.

Oh my God this is amazing. Thanks for sharing!

Thank you for the compliment, Gustavo.

🙂

Guys,

I don't want to take anything away from this fantastic project but have you thought of using Fablon or other makes (sticky backed plastic) to do the same task. Much less effort, not bugs sticking to wet paint, no overspray and if you don't like the effect take it off and begin again. There are all sorts out there, especially for car interiors.

I have even bought a "mirror on a roll" and used that for covering stuff, possibly to re-cover scartched panels (

Great job Evan, really enjoyed reading your project with all those fantastic pictures!

Looks really nice!

About two years ago, I also restored a Beomaster 4500 to sell. The mirror panel was hacked up and there was no way it could be saved.

I did find out that the panel was just a thin veneer of polished aluminum with a thin layer of mylar affixed to the surface for protection. In removing the panel, I did find sources for the gauge of #8 polished stainless steel that closely matched the top.

That was the easy part. Getting a piece cut to size was no problem.

The hard part was getting a perfect bend with a straight line crease. It looks simple, but in reality, so hard to do. 

Most machine shops in the area have a hydraulic break press to put these sorts of bends in the metal. The problem is that the thin metal buckles as it is being folded. This results in a wavy crease. Not good.

Does anyone know how to get the perfect crease? For that matter, how does one get the perfect cut, where the metal doesn't roll in the direction of the cut on the edge?

If someone on this forum knows how this is done, it may be easy or possible to replicate spare mirror panels for the 4500's.

- John

Dunno about the bend, but I suppose the cutting should be done by a laser or water jet instead of a mechanical cutter.

But #8? Really? That's over 4 mm for stainless steel!

matapan wrote:

 

Does anyone know how to get the perfect crease? For that matter, how does one get the perfect cut, where the metal doesn't roll in the direction of the cut on the edge?

If someone on this forum knows how this is done, it may be easy or possible to replicate spare mirror panels for the 4500's.

- John

Something like this might work,

#8 Polish refers to the finish level of the stainless, which is a mirror finish.