Hello, I'm french, sorry for my English.

See here:

Thanks Pons,

This is an interesting link, although I still can't work out how to adjust the positioning of the aluminium cover and the glass plate relative to each other. The article describes the BM8000 partial disassembly but not so much what comes after it...

 By the way, well done on your own restauration project. Unfortunately I do not master French but it looks like you got a very nice set...

 Best regards, Eric

👍

Just a quick update and follow-up...

In further re-assembling the unit, I found that when I put back the large black heatsink it actually also helped 'centre' the middle part of the chassis that holds the right-hand hinge of the aluminium cover plate. Sorry if this sounds complicated but I'm glad it did the trick.

Only remaining problem (apart from the missing display segments) is that the tone controls don't seem to work. 'Filters' works, but 'bass', 'treble' and 'loudness' don't appear to do anything. This is not an urgent issue as I like the sound neutral, as it is, but one day I'd like to get that fixed also.

Anyway, quite happy how things worked out: bought this set last year for 450 Euro, consisting of a Beomaster 8000, Beogram 8000, Beocord 8002, a set of M150's, a Beogram CD4500 (the only functioning piece of equipment), and the B&O furniture designed for it. The speakers are now re-coned, the Beocord given a new belt, the Beogram re-capped and with a new tachodisc, the Beomaster recapped and in working condition. It's costing time but I've learned a lot (and am still learning) in the process, and it keeps me out of the pub! 😉

Best regards, Eric

Eric,

You've come a long way already and you now know your B&O things much better than most other owners do theirs.

😂

Good job with the heatsink cover !

Bass, treble etc.. only works when "Filters" are on.
When Filters are off, all tone controls are bypassed.

Missing LED segments has been a common problem for the Beomaster 6000/8000, the Beocenter 5000,7000,7002,7007,7700 and the Beocord's of the same ranges but I've recently found a way to rebuild the displays.

Still on the experimental stage I feel, though several has been made and are out there working fine.
Problem is that the new LED's are considerably brighter than the original junctions (because that's all they are, they are die'ed onto the PCB and not "real" LED's).
Anyway, the whole display needs to be rebuilt to have equal light output from all segments and because more segments will be damaged simply from the vibrations introduced when de/soldering and handling the display.
After that, a desicion will have to be made whether to do all displays
in the Beomaster (plus eventual Beocord(s)) or just change a good handful of components on the Beomaster display board to make it all even.

Obviously, I would need to have the display(s) and most likely the whole PCB board sent in to perform the operation.

So it's not impossible but not especially cheap. It's hours of manual work involving microscope, hot-air soldering etc. etc. plus final (in-circuit) testing but it does look good.
An alternative would be to find display(s) from a donor but as this is
a very common problem and the displays themselves don't like to
be handled very much (vibrations), this solution requires a gentle hand and/or a fair amount of luck (plus a suitable donor).

Martin