Beomaster 6000 Type 2253

14 replies

I recently acquired a Beomaster 6000 (Type 2253) in non-working condition. Physically it is in great shape, but it will not power on.

Inspection revealed that Fuse 2 was blown.

 

I thought that the bridge rectifier (16D7) might be part of the problem and after testing, it was found to be faulty.

I am considering replacing it with this part: 625-GBPC2504-E4

Can anyone confirm whether this would be a suitable replacement?

I would assume that the large power supply caps C20,C21 should also be replaced.

Once I can get it to turn on, I will likely do a full recap.

Are there any other components which I should look into replacing to get this beomaster to power up?

 

I should also mention that a previous owner soldered wire to both ends of D3 on PCB 6. The wire exits through the bottom of the Beomaster, and is terminated with a 3.5mm jack.

I beleive that PCB 6 is for motor control. What possible purpose could this serve?

The large rectifier is not related to the blown fuse. That'll be the rectifier on the regulator board.
On the same regulator board are two large aluminum electrolytic caps.
In your Beomaster one of them has a piece of tape on it.
It's very common to see one of them (or both) shorted.
That is by far the most common reason for that fuse to blow.

The two large (yellow sleeved) electrolytics are usually fine and the large rectifier should not be measured in circuit.

The external connector, I don't know. Maybe power supply for a Discman, a preamp or similar.

Martin

Hello,

Have you checked on the female jack, there could well be a short inside!

How did you test the bridge rectifier? I have never seen one of this kind blow in 30 years!

Nice pictures by the way!

Thanks for clearing things up Dillen, looking at the schematic now this makes much more sense.

I beleive the capacitors you are refering to are C1 (3300uF 16V) and C10 (2200 uF 40V).

The Jack is not shorted, but I plan to remove it.

I did in fact remove the rectifier for testing, but perhaps my testing methods were incorrect.

Yes, C1 and C10.
C1 in 80% of the cases but I suggest you replace them both.

As Jacques as says, it's very rare to see one of those large rectifiers fail and
I don't remember replacing one in a BM6000 either, but of course that doesn't mean
that it won't ever happen.

Martin

Hi,

Any news? 

I have been unable to work on it , as I am currently at university. My winter break begins next week and I will begin repairs then.

Capacitor C1 was shorted, and I replaced it and C10. It turns out my tests on the original rectifier were incorrect, as I compared the original to a replacement. I decided to put the original rectifier back in the unit. The beomaster is no longer blowing any fuses, but it is still not operating correctly. When it is plugged in, the relay will click on and the volume indicator will briefly light up, but then the relay will click off. The standby light is not on, and the unit is unresponsive. I am not really sure where to go from here.

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