hello,

I think the belt isn't a so critical part (and usually service manuals doesn't mark them as critical), unless you ABSOLUTELY want original B&O spare parts, i guess the best solution is to try looking around for a close-to-match one (or more than one) and try that...

As far as I see you have to take off the cord pulley, so pay attention to not alter the cord path when remounting!

Bye

Seems like it's a cord, not a belt. This cord is sold by the meter and you have to tie it yourself - I'm pretty certain there never was such a thing as "an original spare part" for those. If you need new cord, I have genuine dial cord available. The service manuals usually just tell the length of the loop you need and the routing for the cord.

Anyway, if the cord is still there and installed correctly as it seems, it should not slip. I can think of two reasons:

• The mechanical parts have too much friction
• The cord has been replaced by some wrong type of thread, and so it has stretched too much - looks like this might be the case, because all the dial cords I have seen are striped (

Oh yes,

onyx: I see your opinion, I think I'll start looking around a bit - maybe there's something very similar nearby! Got to be careful disassemblying that though, indeed.

tournedos: Sorry for the picture focusing more on that white dial cord instead of the black rubber belt I actually meant - between the motor and the potentiometer wheel (or more like pulley wheel as onyx said). That's the one slipping a lot - the white dial cord feels to be just alright. What a great reply you wrote though 🙂

Thank you for your very informative replies!

Webu wrote:

tournedos: Sorry for the picture focusing more on that white dial cord instead of the black rubber belt I actually meant - between the motor and the potentiometer wheel (or more like pulley wheel as onyx said). That's the one slipping a lot - the white dial cord feels to be just alright.

Ah, OK, now I see it 🙂 That will most probably be ready for replacement. Short belts like that are a little difficult to replace by generic ones since they don't stretch much, and it is difficult to measure the right length.

Partco in Helsinki has lots of belts in store - but you will probably have to buy/order several different lengths to get one that works - or member Dillen can probably sell you the correct belt.

Just cut out a piece of the old belt and glue it back together using cyanoacrylate.

I once asked Dillen if he had spare belts available and he gave me this hint....

I guess it is not a really permanent solution but it worked fine on my two 6000s. And they are still working today...

Yes, that's a temporary fix.
I am currently having some belts produced but they are hard to match in that this particular belt needs to have
a huge friction. No off-the-shelf belts will do.

They were never really good when new either, silly system altogether.

Martin

Hi Jouni,

Firstly sorry for high jacking your thread! But I think I'm am suffering the same fate!

Martin, could you PM me the cost of your belts? I think I need to order one sooner than later....

My volume on my 6000 has also has been driving me a bit crazy lately... Despite having it adjusted end of last year, after which it was OK for a while, it now constantly gets stuck around 25 and you can only increase the volume by reducing it to around 10 and 'taking a run up to it' ..... sometimes this has to be done several times to allow you to increase above 30. It has now also started sometimes jamming between 10 - 20 and can only be fixed by turning the unit on and off. So I think that the belt has stretched and constantly slipping like Jouni's.

Thanks in advance,

Laurence.

No problem at all Laurence!

It's more like great to see this thread benefit anyone else as well 🙂

I think I'll try that temporary fix soon as it seems to be a bit hard to find a matching belt, even for Martin! Let's see what happens 😮 As Martin said, it seems to need a huge friction since even the old one isn't weak at all - maybe it's just too smooth or something today.

In other news, I've been running the Beomaster on my desk for a couple hours now and it sounds pretty much like a 4400 I've been using as my main Beomaster past months. Unfortunately the 74.8 MHz problem is present - otherwise everything looks good! No heat problems as I can see or anything like balance slider crackling a lot - it's all okay.

The 74.8 MHz issue might be a bit off topic, but would you think it's worth trying to sort out if Martin luckily could supply the needed IC for example?

Anyway, here are some better high resolution pictures, feel free to browse: http://www.verkkojohto.net/webu/bm6000/

Kind regards and many thanks for your replies, Jouni

Hi Jouni,

Thanks, was well timed was thinking about posting about this, so you beat me to it!

I understand from the experts (on this and other sites)  that the 6000 electronics are based largely on the 4400 so your comparison is well founded, as you may already know.

I hope that you can get the tuner sorted out, but I understood that you can still tune it to stations despite it showing the wrong digits? I actually really enjoy listening to radio on this system, (maybe a little pyschological perhaps) as I find it very rich, with nice depth, more so than my newer system.

Hope you can fix this problem easily.

Laurence.