I found out how to remove the platter, but how do I remove the rest of the metallic top?

If you have the platter off but the rest is still there, you have climbed the tree bass ackwards 🙂

See here for the correct disassembly procedure.

yachadm wrote:

Tom,

Take a look on Page 3 at Section 3 - Zero balancing the tone arm.

link

It shows how to balance the arm - that's what I would do for starters on this problem.

Menahem

Hi all - I know this thread is from last year, so if I should start my own thread, please let me know.  I have the arm lowering problem, so I followed Menahem's procedure on lubricating the solenoid, the levers and the damper shaft, so the arm lowers appropriately now at 1 second's time.  My problem is that when it reaches the end of the record or STOP/LIFT is pressed, the solenoid shaft returns slowly, thus the damper releases slowly, and the arm raises slowly - about 5 seconds.  That's too long as the arm and needle is dragged across the record.  Is the solenoid supposed to snap back into position as fast as how it snaps outward?  If so, what am I missing?  Thanks everyone...

Yes, the solenoid is supposed to snap back rapidly.
The mechanics around it should do the same. The raising of the tonearm should
be an almost instant smack, much faster than the lowering.
Are you sure that all the springs are on correctly ?
Did you lubricate the point inside the carriage head ?

Martin

Just thought I would throw in my pennys worth in!

I had this problem with a 4002. It was almost as if there was a residual current holding the solenoid in and if you slightly helped the arm release everything would snap back in place like it should! Measurements revealed no voltage at sol terminals, all the lubrication in the world didn't help with this one and I was puzzled. Sometimes it would be 5 minutes before the arm snapped back up. However it would generally do this quickly when it happened.

I found the problem when looking through the setup proceedures in the manual. Making sure the lower solenoid arm was parallel to the lower PCB when energised actually solved this problem and the deck has been fine since!

Step1 wrote:

Just thought I would throw in my pennys worth in!

I had this problem with a 4002. It was almost as if there was a residual current holding the solenoid in and if you slightly helped the arm release everything would snap back in place like it should! Measurements revealed no voltage at sol terminals, all the lubrication in the world didn't help with this one and I was puzzled. Sometimes it would be 5 minutes before the arm snapped back up. However it would generally do this quickly when it happened.

I found the problem when looking through the setup proceedures in the manual. Making sure the lower solenoid arm was parallel to the lower PCB when energised actually solved this problem and the deck has been fine since!

Very interesting. Hence the importance of scrupulously following the manual!

However both my 4002 and 4000 behaved like Tom's and it was a lubrication problem.

Menahem forgot to mention the L-shaped arm which actually transmits the solenoid movement to the arm lift.

Unfortunately this has to be dimantled and cleaned too prior to lubricating. See

The springs are on correctly just like the photo in the write up.  However, I have not lubricated the point inside the carriage head nor the take out the lever at the pivot point with the c-clip by the damper to have a thorough cleaning, so those two items will be next.  The behavior I am seeing is that the solenoid shaft shoots out when energized, but when STOP is pressed, it DOES NOT snap back in, but rather acted like a damper, and just slowly goes back in.  Perhaps no voltage was applied to the solenoid at that point?  I'll need to re-read the service manual and Menahem's write up.  Thanks.

slowpat wrote:

 The behavior I am seeing is that the solenoid shaft shoots out when energized, but when STOP is pressed, it DOES NOT snap back in, but rather acted like a damper, and just slowly goes back in.  

Exactly!🙂 

It is not quite stuck (hardened old grease) and the spring isn't powerful enough to call it back as it should! So it will come back but slowly, as if damped.

You need to remove  the front lever and clean its bearing first (I use white spirit) in and out, then apply fresh Singer oil. Don't think that just a drop of oil on top will do! You really have to take the thing off... The old grease is caked and actually acts as a very good sealing agent! 🙁 See my post. 

Then if that's not enough, same operation on the L-shaped lever.

I insist on the fact that you MUST use a special tool for the circlips though!

Yes, these two points (plus the one in the carriage) are most prone to seizing up:

Login to view image

Note that this Beogram differs from the one shown in the linked page, it does not have
the left side switch etc. but the tonearm mechs are basically the same.

And I agree on using a proper circlip tool. It WILL fly across the room.

Martin

chartz wrote:

It is not quite stuck (hardened old grease) and the spring isn't powerful enough to call it back as it should! So it will come back but slowly, as if damped.

...

 

Then if that's not enough, same operation on the L-shaped lever.

I insist on the fact that you MUST use a special tool for the circlips though!

Will do...and you're so correct because I put Singer oil on the L-shaped lever and thought all was well, but eventually, had to take it out, and it was caked up and took some effort to come up.  After cleaning the hole and the pin, oiled, and reassembled, it was swinging like night and day. 

And yes...I have a c-clip tool, and I'll put a net around the work place to catch that c-clip...🙂  Thanks...