How to open a Beogram 4002 / 4004 / 6000

34 replies

This has been explained a number of times in so many words, but never with pictures - I though it would be easier to refer to a pictorial thread instead of reiterating the subject again and again 🙂

The first thing to do is to unplug the Beogram from mains. If there are missing covers inside, live parts will be visible. Also, if there is power, you might accidentally start the deck and drive the stylus into something...

The construction of these Beograms is really clever - the wooden frame of the plinth keeps the entire top together. There's not a single screw to remove, you just grab the frame by its rear ends and slide it forward as far as it comes, for about one centimeter.

 

The next step is to remove the side panel above the controls. Lift the right edge of it about this much, and then slide it away to the right. Be careful not to bump the stylus if you have the cartridge installed!

 

This is the underside of the side panel. Note the pegs that keep it in place - one of them must slide in a brass hook in the left front corner when you are reinstalling it later.

 

The next part to remove is the rectangular plate around the platter. It just lifts off, don't bump the stylus or scratch the dust lid while doing so. Then you are left with this.

 

The platter can now be removed. Release the belt from around the motor pulley and lift off the platter - carefully, as the subplatter may be stuck on it and fall.

Note how I wrapped the belt partly around the platter. That keeps it in place making installation much easier.

 

Here's the inside of the deck, with the subplatter still sitting on the actual bearing. (can anyone confirm if there are versions without this kind of a subplatter?)

The subplatter once again just lifts off. The subplatter and platter definitely need to be packaged separately when you ship these Beograms!

 

Here we have a peek at the muting circuit. If you have a Beogram 6000 or one of the others with a CD-4 decoder option, there will be a large circuit board sandwiched below it, extending all the way under the control panel.

 

This part of the control panel can be pried off - it snaps in place with some spring clips, and theoretically could come loose during shipping. Below it, you see a single screw which holds the rest of the control panel in place.

 

Assembly, as always, is the reverse of the disassembly. Remember to install the belt and rotate the platter a few turns to make sure it stays in place.

The square panel needs to be orientated like this - the edge of the side panel goes between this brass strip and the panel itself. It can be tight. Also, note the brass fork I mentioned earlier. The side panel must be kept close to horizontal when you slide it in place, otherwise the fork won't catch the peg.

That's it!

 

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