Soder Wick contains flux, the others don't.

So, if you just add some flux to your regular wick, it's just as good!

Menahem

Dillen wrote:

A note about the Ouverture:
I've seen a couple of cases where the laser was physically blocked. It needs
to move closer to - or away from the CD to find the focus point and to do that
it uses a voice coil system to move the whole diode/lens system, involving
the coil(s) and a flat metal (magnet) piece.
In the Ouverture, it can happen that the outer surface coating (chrome or
whatever) losens and peels off the metal piece in tiny flakes.
There is no room for any debris in there so the coil gets stuck.
It's a bit hard to clean out because of the magnetic forces but it can be done
by using f.e. a corner of a post-it note (the end with the glue) and it will play again.
I've rescued two or three with this fault by now and it could also explain
the problem that was in Kumse's machine.
So the capacitors in that machine are still good.
- but as all others they won't last forever.

IF the laser is physically blocked -how is your experience with changing the laser lens? I've seen that you can buy a new laser head unit and replace it. Otherwise you can replace the whole CD mechanism. I've seen that you can replace the Philips CDM 12.1 and 12.2 with the newer VAM-1201 or VAM-1202. Any experience with that?

I never had to replace a laser lens (or a laser diode for that matter) apart from one in a Beogram CD50, where the owner managed to
scratch the lens in a desperate attempt to get the thing going (the fault was the spindle motor plus a few capacitors, as always).
So I'm afraid, I haven't got any experience with replacing the lens and can't recommend a part.

Regarding the blockage, if you read a bit further, you will see that a replacement of the laser was not needed. The blockage
could be cleared and the player worked again. I've done two or three repairs of this type now so I'd imagine others would experience the same fault.

Martin

Hi Kumse,

"Well.. no offence, but the guys in here are really crazy about changing caps"

No offense taken, but you must understand that this bunch of guys is unusual. If I may speak for all the techs here, our unusualness is that we do not subscribe to the modern lazy way of fixing things, which is to throw away the entire subassembly, PCB, or whatever, and put in a new one, at a vastly inflated cost to the consumer, but instead we do things the old-fashioned way - repairing at the component level, which is fast becoming a lost art in today's throw-away world.

Yes, we change capacitors, because we have (may I be so bold) vast experience on these B&O machines, and capacitors were always B&O's weak points.

In general when we replace capacitors, most of the techs here are sufficiently well-versed to replace with capacitors of much higher reliabilty than the original B&O units, therefore providing even better value and reliability to the owners.

Simple facts, simple problems, with simple, correct and honest solutions.

You may disagree, and that's fine. We'll continue to tackle the problems at component level, because that's the way we believe that it should be done, and which serves the owners most honestly.

Menahem

100% agreement :)

yachadm, Die_bogener, Dillen ... >>

Maybee i wasnt clear in my post, sorry guys!

I read a lot of your replies at this workbench forum, i know you all are experienced, and you should know i really admire you are doing repair on component level, and i totally agree about upgrading to better spec capacitors.

I just wanted to share my experience with a quite similar problem. It was easy solved, and was quite inexpensive, that was why i thought it was worth considering.

Steffen>> Do you mean the laser unit, not laser lens ? I have good experience by replacing wit VAM12xx types, but it is important you are getting the right one. The one for the CDpro has got a metal shield mounted on the pcb at the laser, the one for the CMD12ind has got a TDA1302T ic on the pcb and no metal shield. It is easy to find very detailed pictures online so you can compare them

Regards

kumse wrote:

Steffen>> Do you mean the laser unit, not laser lens ? I have good experience by replacing wit VAM12xx types, but it is important you are getting the right one. The one for the CDpro has got a metal shield mounted on the pcb at the laser, the one for the CMD12ind has got a TDA1302T ic on the pcb and no metal shield. It is easy to find very detailed pictures online so you can compare them

Regards

That's what I meant: laser unit, ofcourse. And -thank you for the reply.

And to Dillen>>Yes -I've read the rest, and know that you can fix it with a Post-it note 😕 I was just asking - theoretically -what if it can not be fixed this way..? 🤔

Steffen

Steffen,

If the Ouverture laser lens is blocked, the blockage will have to be removed somehow. If a corner of a post-it note
cannot do the trick, some other means of cleaning will have to be figured out. It's tiny flakes of chrome or similar
that are stuck on the voice coil magnet so can be a bit difficult to shift.
If the laser is dead, it will have to be replaced (I've never had to do this).
If it's just starved for current (as usual), the focus is off or the cats eye pattern for some other reason is skewed, the
reason will have to be found, usually dried out capacitors.

Martin

I've just got the BeoCenter 9300 in for repair from a customer in the Caribbean.

As with Clive's unit on the previous page of this thread, this is a later 1997 model, with the SMD capacitors on the CDM12 CD PCB - the SMD electrolytics on the upper side, and SMD tantalums on the underside.

And as with Clive's unit, the big 330uF (C2000 5VDC rail) and 100uF (C2001 9VDC rail) are both inflated. I will replace all the SMD's, with leaded (non-SMD) units.

Interestingly, the famous decoupling cap for the Focus Motor (C2103 IIRC on all the older CDM2 and CDM4 models) was a 33uF. Martin had wisely suggested an upgrade to 47uF, and here we see confirmation of this. On this PCB, C2003 is the 47uF decoupling cap for the Focus Motor power supply!

The 2 blue axial Philips 10uF/63V to the right of the relay, are both shot, showing about 26uF with 7.6ohm ESR. The other caps, mostly Elna, but with a couple of Samwha's thrown in for good measure, are pretty close, but many are pushing their upper ESR limits, so I will replace them with Panasonic EB and Wima MKS2 series.

One of the solder joints of the big C29 6800uF/16V cap at the extreme right of the PCB, has separated from the adjacent traces, so that will be a minor repair.

However, I have a question relating to the power supply / power amp PCB.

Directly to the left of the 6800uF cap, is C30, a 10uF 50V cap.

In the circuit diagram, that same C30 is shown as a 2200uF cap, with print space on the PCB hinting at a large cap which is supposed to be there. I checked through the documented changes from the first CDM version, to the CDM12 (this one), and can't find any reference to deleting the 2200uF cap. On my own BC9300 (a 1994 model, the 2200uF cap is there). Has anyone seen this before?

Menahem

Yes, i have seen this before with the missing 2200uf cap. The cd drives are different, one power supply voltage line is not used any more. So the cap is not necessary any more.

I dont remember which voltage is gone, but i have had both types of the BC9300 in repair. The older drive had the cap, the newer drive did not.

Was it the negative -9V line...?