Clive wrote:

The cd doesn't spin after accepting a disk and the door then reopens.  I've tried a very light clean of the laser lens to no avail.  Are there any common faults or simple checks I could do with a meter for example before admitting defeat and taking it to the local store for a mechanism change out? 9300 is a type 2520, SW1.3, serial number 11684776.

Hope someone can help, Regards, Clive

 

Hello Clive

Well.. no offence, but the guys in here are really crazy about changing caps. I had a similar problem with a B&O overture. It had a CMD12ind drive mechanism.
I was also told to change all the caps, i tried to find some datasheets on the CMD12ind mechanism, and found out that buying all the caps with the correct specifications seemed to bee very complex.

On the other hand i found in the service manual, that when the CD does not spin, the laser isnt able to find focus.
I turned the overture into service mode, and could read exactly that error "focus error"
I tried to disassemble and clean the laser unit with instructions from guides online, but with no success.
I wanted to try to buy a new one, unfortunately the laser unit was no longer avavible (it was actually avavible when i brought the defective Overture) :)

Nevertheless i searched ebay, and found a seller in China (gobuyjudy[AT]hotmail.com)
, who asked me to send a picture of the laser unit. I did, and i send him ~30$. I did not really hear from him afterwards but
14 days after, i recived what seems to be a quite good quality part. I replaced it with the broken one, and greased carefully the moving parts, and it has ben playing every day since :)

You should know there is several different versions of the laser unit and the cd mechanism. But mine were a CMD12ind and the laser unit had the IC mounted TDA1302T
I actually think i could have bought this one. It is similar to the one i got, and even cheaper:

It's also my experience that capacitors are causing 95% (or more) of the
faults in B&O CD players (and many other places in vintage stuff).
The laser itself is incredibly strong and long lived.
I say that based on 200+ repairs to B&O CD players.
Of course a laser can fail but it is rare to see.

After taking a look at the photo using my own PC monitor, I agree
completely with you (the other) Martin.
The one in the bottom left corner has definitely domed its top.
That cap is no longer doing its job well.

Whatever you do, DON'T adjust anything ! Setting the laser current too high will see the
laser diode go black forever in a matter of minutes or even seconds and adjusting focus etc. without
the proper instrumentation, test CD's etc. is asking for trouble (or a high repair bill).
Have those caps replaced and let's see. They are definitely no good as-is.

A note about the Ouverture:
I've seen a couple of cases where the laser was physically blocked. It needs
to move closer to - or away from the CD to find the focus point and to do that
it uses a voice coil system to move the whole diode/lens system, involving
the coil(s) and a flat metal (magnet) piece.
In the Ouverture, it can happen that the outer surface coating (chrome or
whatever) losens and peels off the metal piece in tiny flakes.
There is no room for any debris in there so the coil gets stuck.
It's a bit hard to clean out because of the magnetic forces but it can be done
by using f.e. a corner of a post-it note (the end with the glue) and it will play again.
I've rescued two or three with this fault by now and it could also explain
the problem that was in Kumse's machine.
So the capacitors in that machine are still good.
- but as all others they won't last forever.

Martin

Thanks again guys.  You are correct in that the two large capacitors are deformed (bulging).  It was the first thing I noticed when I opened up the unit.  Replacing the capacitors shouldn't present me with too many challenges once I have sourced them but how easy is it to remove the original surface mounted items without causing any damage to the board?

Note their values and polarities.
Use pliers,  grab and twist.

Martin

Thanks Martin, now you're talking my language.  Pliers, grab, pull and twist!  I thought there may be a more 'technical' way!

I should have mentioned that I'm a mechanical engineer so that part of the job should be simple enough for me 😁

Don't pull !
You will risk pulling off the copper traces too.
Just grab and rotate.

There is a more technical way but that involves ionized hot air soldering and since you asked the question, I took it that
you don't have that at hand.

Martin

And clean the surface with a paint thinner. The defect cap has lost acid, it can corrode the copper and it can make a shortcut.

Grab and rotate works perfect, i do it the same way, never a defect copper layer.

Clean the solder with a unsolder copper wire, sorry, dont know the english word for this item...

There is no need to use smd again, quite normal standard caps will work. You know the polarity of the caps? Black is minus.

Die_Bogener wrote:

unsolder copper wire, sorry, dont know the english word for this item...

Solder wick.

Die_Bogener wrote:

Clean the solder with a unsolder copper wire, sorry, dont know the english word for this item...

"Solder wick" or "desoldering braid"... and the best brand is for some odd reason called "Soder-Wick" (by Chemtronics), without the L! I've tried at least three other (cheaper) brands, and none of them worked nearly as well...

Exactly my experience too. 😂

Martin